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hpi savage 5.9 break in??????????

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bplakers

Gone - bye bye.
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I was just wondering how you broke in a savage xl 5.9? It says to run 3 tanks with it on a stand then two tanks at half throttle. Just switched over to hpi from traxxas. Which has a very different break in method. Just wonder which way to break the engine in?
 
what heat should i keep it at? its about 35 f here
 
Your heat will vary as you perform the breakin procedure. The ,ore you start to tune the engine the hotter it will get (to a point) The whole idea of the "heat cycle" method is to get the engine running extremely rich which will help keep the running temps cooler. Oncer you have gone tru a tank you should let it sit for several minutes and allow it to completely cool off and repeat the process. This cycling will allow the internal parts to "mold or gel" to each other. Just my .02 Good luck!!
 
just starting winter here 70 isn't going to happen for awhile so
 
I had a similar issue. After I sent mine in to hpi due to a defective carb and missing an o ring on the hsn, it was like around 40 or so. I went ahead and waited until spring to break in my XL and it paid off. I also followed the hpi directions to a tee as well. One minor issue I had was it would not heat up until I ran it on grass after the break in. Good luck and Congrats on the truck. 1 mod you might want to do off the bat is replace the brake spring with a same size fuel line. It will make your brakes come alive. Also be careful removing your hump pack and installing your hump pack because with the radio box the way it it, its easy to damage the wires when you close the radio box.
 
Come on man. Do you really expect the guy to sit and stare at a brand new truck for three months waiting for 70 degree weather? Surely someone on here has the secret to cold weather break in.
 
You can always wrap the head in foil, heat it up with a hair dryer, start it up, and then get a sock over it. Don't know that you will get a proper cycle doing it though. I don't hesitate to run my rigs in the winter but my mills are properly broken in. Maybe you outta buy a cheap electric to bash right now and break in the nitro when its 70 degrees? If you try to do it now and get less-than-satisfactory results it'll cause premature engine failure. Your rig; your call.
 
What if i break it in on the a stand inside? Fumes would get bad but I took it outside to start it would hardly turn over. Took in in the basement on a stand warmed it up with a hair dryer was close to starting when my battery started to give out. Chaging it now. I tried heating it up with a blow dryer inside.

I dont wana wait till 70 degree weather that could be april....I think I'm going to try the stand inside then take it out after its loosend up a bit and see what it does. First one I bought brand new. I also tried loosening the glow plug and it would turn over better but still didn't get to hear the motor.
 
Without proper ventilation, you run the risk of co2 poising. Also the fumes will stick to whatever you have inside the house. Like drapes, carpet and the like.
 
Without proper ventilation, you run the risk of co2 poising. Also the fumes will stick to whatever you have inside the house. Like drapes, carpet and the like.

Co poisoning( carbon monoxide). (Co2 carbon dioxide=harmless)
:)
 
CO2 is also poisonous in a high enough concentration. It's best to any break-in procedures outdoors.
 
Even if you start it inside (Not recommended) and bring it out to "break in or tune" your still not going to get the proper type of heat cycling you require to do a good breakin. You can still go ahead as its your truck but I would expect you will have to buy a new motor in the very near future which could be a good thing as well. Kinda depends on how deep your pockets are. Mine are luckily deep enough to where I can afford to put my nitros on the workbench for for some off season wrenching and break/play with the electrics I have. But not everyone has that kind of opportunity
 
The fumes are poisonous, try to avoid breathing them all together! I would only idle the engine for a few minutes and then start driving it fluctuating the rpm, it is hard on the engine to sit at one rpm for any length of time, just like a 1:1. I don't recommend running it "very rich", just slightly rich is fine, the LSN has to be set almost perfectly tuned or the engine would not idle so you can follow the same idea with the HSN as well. Running very rich will only put more stress on the internal parts because the fuel/oil will build up in the combustion chamber and we all know that you can't compress a liquid so the compression will be higher with the additional fluid. Heat cycling is debatable "IMO" as I believe it takes a substantially higher heat to temper the materials, much higher then what you can achieve doing a break-in, or even fully tuned for that matter. Stay out of the snow! that is the biggest killer imo because when it hits the cooling head it will suck the heat out leaving the engine cold. If the engine is run cold for extended periods, once it gets warm out and the engine can get to normal running temps, you will find that it will act like a worn out engine as the tolerances were set to run at a much cooler temp, if that makes any sense. Enjoy. :)
 
I had it started inside got it warmed up a little bit took it outside. I ran two tanks through it got max temp of 130. About 100 short. I just sat it up on a box and let the wheels spin. I was going to run a few more tanks through it like that then just baby it around in a circle for 3 or 4 tanks then start giving it more gas. Idk if it'll work or not but going to try that. Dont really want to have to wait.

I don't like electric rcs I wouldnt even consider buying one but thanks for the idea.
 
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