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HPI Jumpshot SC Flux impression from first runs.

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biggman100

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I actually bought the Toyo tires edition Jumpshot SC Flux back in December, but, until a couple days ago, it sat on a shelf. I finally ran it for the first time Saturday and Sunday, and, although it is quick, since it is more geared for 3S, and I only ran it on 2S, it definitely will need a pinion change. First impression though, it handles and acts a lot like the original Arrma Fury (not the just released one), in that, on loose dirt and asphalt, it tends to start to drift on full throttle, and then just wipes out and does donuts, so, I'm thinking the diff definitely needs either heavier grease or oil ( I haven't taken it apart yet to see which it has, but, the MT V2 I had had grease), but, even with the issues I encountered, I do like this truck a lot.

Now, on to the few issues I encountered. First, just like the Fury, it has plastic pop on style links for the steering, and, it doesn't take much for them to pop off the balls, even on small jumps, or off curbs, so that is the first thing I will be addressing.

Next is the shocks. They were full of oil, and, I know they didn't leak, because it sat on a white shelf all summer, and there was no oil on the truck or the shelf, and, when I opened the shocks, they were full, but, I swear HPI used shock oil almost the consistency of water. The shocks are the plastic adjustable type, and, out of the box, the rears were set almost to the middle of the shock, and the rear still about dragged the ground about constantly, so, I'm going to drain them, clean them, and do Losi 60WT in the front, and 50WT in the rear. This is how the rear shocks came off the truck out of the box. The fronts were better, but still seemed to have really light oil in them. The other thing I wasn't so thrilled about are that they come with plastic, instead of aluminum pivot balls, and, in my experience, they always end up wearing out fast. Overall though, for being plastic shocks, they seem pretty decent.
IMG_20240915_191709612.webp


The only other issue I have so far encountered, but easily the one that concerns me the most is the motor. I don't have a temp gun, yet, but, after running it about 20 minutes, on 2S, it seemed to be a lot warmer than I expected it to be. I'm planning on picking up a temp gun in the next couple days, and I will definitely be keeping an eye on it.

Overall, I really do like the truck. It seems to have a couple quirks, but, it's all minor stuff I have dealt with with other 2WD SCT's, so nothing I'm not used to. Other than the links, and the shock issue, it also seems pretty durable. I started out with mild jumps in grass, and then jumped it off curbs, concrete steps, the porch, anything I could find to get it at least a little in the air, and it took everything I did with it. The curbs around this area arent square, they are almost triangle shaped, and make really good jumps, and, even at full throttle off the curbs (and once hitting me in the legs), nothing broke or got damaged, which is a personal achievement for me, since I typically break every truck I have the first time I run it, new or used.
 
Thanks for sharing. Yeah, I'm not a fan of composite shocks, but hey, if they work, they work. I look forward to a long-term review.

When/if you get a chance, could you measure (eye to eye) the front and rear shocks for me please? I'm just curious to see what shocks that I have would possibly fit on a Jumpshot.
 
I had to check out HPI's site. You got HPI's best looking (IMO) Jumpshot SC Flux model that came with the black wheels...
1726507556545.webp

The newest Jumpshot SC Flux with orange wheels just looks too toyish/cheesy to me. Sorry if I offend anyone.


I'm interested in the body post arms durability. They surely got to be made of a more flexible material. Right?
1726501397494.webp
 
I had to check out HPI's site. You got HPI's best looking (IMO) Jumpshot SC Flux model that came with the black wheels... View attachment 202560
The newest Jumpshot SC Flux with orange wheels just looks too toyish/cheesy to me. Sorry if I offend anyone.


I'm interested in the body post arms durability. They surely got to be made of a more flexible material. Right?
View attachment 202535
As for the orange wheels, for a long time, orange was HPI's standard color, and apparently it still is. I picked up one of the first Jumpshot SC V2's used, and it looks a lot like the newest release of it color wise, and I have had 3 Blitz that were that color. I remember awhile back all of their vehicles standard color was orange and white.

As for the body mounts, like the rest of the truck, they are pretty durable. I haven't got a lot of run time on this truck, but, I had a Jumpshot MT V2 (for those that don't know, the V2 is the brushed version, and the Flux is the brushless version), and, I ran the MT pretty much everywhere, on every surface, from concrete skate parks to mud tracks, and the only thing I broke on that were front lower arms. All of the Jumpshot models, (SC, ST, MT) in both V2 and Flux share a lot of components. The only real differences are length of the chassis, body, wheels and tires, and the diff ring gear. The V2 has a plastic ring gear and idlers, and the Flux they are metal, but both use the same plastic diff housing.
 
Thanks for sharing. Yeah, I'm not a fan of composite shocks, but hey, if they work, they work. I look forward to a long-term review.

When/if you get a chance, could you measure (eye to eye) the front and rear shocks for me please? I'm just curious to see what shocks that I have would possibly fit on a Jumpshot.
The front's are 100MM eye to eye, and the rear's are 120MM eye to eye.

IMG_20240930_225713828.webp

IMG_20240930_225634763.webp


I finally got around to picking up shock oil (Losi 60WT front, and 50WT rear) and messing with the shocks. Some odd things I noticed. The springs front and rear were pretty much exactly the same length, even though the front and rear shocks are different lengths. More than likely the rear springs compressed from the way they were adjusted out of the box. I ended up using a plastic tube I found that fit perfectly inside the springs, and stretched them to fit the shocks properly. I don't like doing that, but, I don't currently have any other springs that would work. Another thing I noticed was how I had to fill them and bleed them to get any response from them. I had to fill them to above the shaft, then push the shaft all the way up, and fill them right to the top, and then proceed to bleed them (I actually figured it out by accident), and I have never had to do shocks that way before. Maybe I have been doing them wrong all this time, or, maybe it is just these ones.


This is with the shaft all the way up.
IMG_20240930_224850293.webp

IMG_20240930_224931215.webp


And this is how they looked with them full, but the shaft all the way down.
IMG_20240930_225002743_HDR.webp

IMG_20240930_224956982.webp


This is how the springs looked when I first took them off, and after I stretched them.
IMG_20240930_225509028.webp

IMG_20240930_225949645.webp
 
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Would a set of RPM ball connectors (whatever the plastic oart is called) work? They're for AE/Losi, but it'd be nice of they work here too.
 
Would a set of RPM ball connectors (whatever the plastic oart is called) work? They're for AE/Losi, but it'd be nice of they work here too.
I actually haven't gotten around to sourcing pillow balls for it yet. My plan is to just cut the top of the link off at the end where is attaches, and find a set of pillow balls that will fit those ends. I'm going to have it set up so the links like the Arrma and Traxxas links, with the screw that goes through them.
 
Hi,

Although new here, I'm not new to the RC world. I've been doing it since the late 80's.

On a whim I bought this truck just to see what it'd do. It was the Flux one, with that 4000 motor. Heck, 200 bucks for all minus battery? Why not. I've got 200 bones I don't care about.

This was tested on the street, and a real course. A pic attached of the course.

My impressions (it's not good) All run on 2S. (I think people should make a good decision when buying things, thus this isn't to make anyone feel bad. It's just information)

Pros:
1. That motor is nice. A real rocket if hooked to some decent electronics and a car that will handle it.
2. Battery access is really nice, simple, roomy.
3. All (most) electronics are nicely inside that center box.
4. Body is pretty. You can buy the unpainted version too, Yay!
5. Radio & receiver work still...


Cons:
1. The pop on ball joints have to go. The truck wouldn't take much before it just popped the steering ones only to limp home many many times.
2. Acceleration: It's a land missile. Those video's on youtube showing it launching into the air are true. This thing, at top speed will go air born every time. Anyone that floors it on street will be super happy of course for that blazing acceleration, but not too happy when it limps home after a few parachuting excursions. On a dirt course, watered & all... it's got a "too light" feeling, close to being uncontrollable as the front end is also a push-pig. I imagine proline Gladiator, trenchers or badlands would remedy that a bit, but the wheels would be the most expensive thing on the truck... and the toughest.
3. Steering geometry. While I love the simplicity of a servo in the center, it throws off the geometry. While no, it isn't exactly necessary to get that right with bell cranks & such like most cars... it was still annoying to me.
4. ESC in the thing smoked itself, and got glitchy right beforehand.
5. The steering servo, weak sauce. The thing stripped in under 2 hours run time.
6. Shocks leaked, they're weak.
7. Some allen screws appeared to be stripped in the head... hard to get apart. (perhaps a disgruntled employee had a bad day?)
8. Frame: that rail design is neat, but was done some 4 decades ago. It's nothing special but still cool to look at.
9. The diff... blew up... spacers aren't right so it jumps the bevel gears.
10. The Gear cover, doesn't really come off easily.
11. The old fashioned dog bones... if you loose a control link... that dog bone could go sailing. At the speed & power the thing has, you may never find it, or if it gets tied up in something... is going to rip apart things in the back 40.
12. Tires aren't worth a thing.
13. Front bumper brace... will strip right out of the bulkhead in short order on any big hit and doesn't help protecting the body. (this was when it was rolled or did a nose dive on purpose.) Screws are too small... so is the brace & bumper.
14. Front bumper, on a few hits... the bumper actually pulled right over 1 of the 4 screws to the bulkhead. Had to take it off, to fix... then it happened again.
15. Parts availability: Lacking at many top shelf hobby stores. One here won't even carry the brand... except for bodies.
16. Pinion gear was loose, came loose... then wiped out the spur gear.

Summary: Don't buy it. Don't modify it if you did trying to make it something it's not. It's a deep rabbit hole to make it anything off-road worthy. Go 3S in it, it might just hide under the couch and piss itself. Perhaps make it a road car, it might perform if you fix that janky diff. HPI should stick to street cars & bodies... they've always been good at those. For 200 bucks... you get a screaming motor & some extra screws... and a body to put on a slash. LOL!

Want a SC truck, keep it simple & go Associated, Traxxas, and the known kings of the hill.

All of this, is just an opinion. Take it as you will. :)

449823802_2514508562090589_2243187632814681075_n.webp
 
@kawood100, good write up. I'm always kicking myself for missing out on the Firestorm, and Blitz platforms. HPI is always tip toeing around the greatness that they once had. I was waiting for the price to drop on a couple of new Jumpshot SC sliders from eBay seller. I thought it would be a good little project to build up with some great shocks. Time has passed by, and my little projects ideas have gone with it.
 
I finally got back to this, and, instead of cutting the links, I just went with long rod ends from RC4WD.

IMG_20250309_003539222.webp


They are a tiny bit longer than the stock ones.

IMG_20250309_005611960.webp


However, I ran into a snag due to how the servo saver is designed. You can't fit the links side by side on the servo saver, and, instead have to have one above the other. This is how I currently have them, until I can pick up a better servo saver. With them this way, they rub against each other. My plan is to pick up an Arrma direct link servo saver.

IMG_20250309_014433705.webp


This is the servo saver I'm planning on getting: https://www.horizonhobby.com/produc...dLaCLlAf2cgr9VeQUAoSdQpHwwnbU2AkaAlU8EALw_wcB

As for the diff issues, I haven't experienced that in any of my Jumpshot vehicles, but I will be keeping an eye on it. The servo, since it's a stock RTR servo, I expect to have to replace anyway.
 
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