How often do you rebuild your cars?

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I run my RCs in/on very dusty environment. The dust/dirt will literally get thrown onto bearings, CV joints, and shocks when big knobby tires are churning things up in a corner.

I do scheduled maintenance tear downs/rebuilds every 12 runs... bearing cleaning/relube & shock cleaing/rebuilds, and check for worn parts,. It used to be every 24 runs, but I would get blown bearings more often with the longer timeframe. I narrowed down the maintenance needed, little by little, to my now 12 full (12~15 minute) runs to save on bearing/parts costs... driving an RC with blown bearings does weird things to RCs :inpain: .

Old spread sheet that I made, and printed out to have in garage...
1685112675049.png


Every 24 runs I well normally change out diff fluids & rebuild/refurbish ball diffs.

Full blown complete tear downs/rebuilds/beautification of my RCs only happen... never :thumbs-up::cool:... well, unless I get stupid with running stuff in muck, or I'm getting ready to sell them ;).
 
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Well, coming back to this. Yesterday, I had one of the locals put in 500K center diff oil for me. It made a huge difference in qualifier 2 last night. Car drove way more better. Now this was half the thing

The other half is, that when he opened it, it was bone dry!
So if I am going to be racing every week to every other week, i will be needing to rebuild my diffs, and probably shocks, every 2 to 4 race days.
Time for an AMain diff and shock oil order!
 
Well, coming back to this. Yesterday, I had one of the locals put in 500K center diff oil for me. It made a huge difference in qualifier 2 last night. Car drove way more better. Now this was half the thing

The other half is, that when he opened it, it was bone dry!
So if I am going to be racing every week to every other week, i will be needing to rebuild my diffs, and probably shocks, every 2 to 4 race days.
Time for an AMain diff and shock oil order!
I will have to try 500k in my wheeler too. Yesterday I was wrenching for sih hours but all of my cars are mostly ready. Tomorrow at the track just have to do some minor adjustments like camber and ride height. Two xray xt2s ready. Most likely will be racing one to the right and do some testing on the left one since it will be first time.on the track

IMG_20230630_083416194_HDR.jpg
 
I will have to try 500k in my wheeler too. Yesterday I was wrenching for sih hours but all of my cars are mostly ready. Tomorrow at the track just have to do some minor adjustments like camber and ride height. Two xray xt2s ready. Most likely will be racing one to the right and do some testing on the left one since it will be first time.on the track

View attachment 168185
Nice. I like those STs.
How are those CHNL batteries? How do you like them?
My current Maclan V3s are getting there. Been looking at the Maclan V4s (6400, or the 4800 LCG) or ProTek packs. Locals are running both brands.
My Uncle needs new batteries too. When he gets some spare cash he will get some, and a new set of wheels and tires. He is thinking about just going with Promatch. The only down side is that they are only regular 7.4 lipos, not 7.6 HV lipos. I might send him a link to the CHNL ones if he wants to save a bit more, and move up to HV packs.
With the one on the left, which radio are you using it with? One of the locals just got the new RC8X. He hasn't put it in his offroad car yet. The only thing I am worried about is the big bulky receivers it comes with, and the dual antennas. If Radiolink can come out with a smaller receiver, and maybe antenna-less, that will be nice as racers with compact chassis and space. Been looking at the RC8X, and getting the R8FG V2.1 receiver so I can run down to 3ms. But not sure if it can fit in the buggy.
 
I am using futaba 3pv and it works awesome, but sometimes I will upgrade to better like 4pm, it's not priority right now. For back up I have radio link but I don't like it because it's glitching sometimes. I am not sure why, sometimes I would not have a single glitch whole day, sometimes I would glitch every lap. It's just not reliable.


I highly recommend chnl lipos. I am mainly using regular non hv, bought them on black Friday for only 18$. They are not high end but not bad either. Ir was around 3 and now after 7 months of racing they didn't degrade at all, still at 3. This lcg hv received yesterday and they seem to be very good as well, highly recommend. I have one protek but one cell died and it puffed I don't recommend.
 

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