• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

how far

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

nitro_freak_123

RCTalk Talkaholic
Messages
459
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
wales, uk
RC Driving Style
hello guys just wanted to know how for a nitro car would go with stock setup with no changes wit out it losing reception because i dont like going to far in the parking lot I'm scared it will lose reception and smash in to a wall or something thank you nitro freak !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
 
Last edited:
I would say 1/4 mile give or take. I think a stock t maxx is 1/4 mile if I'm not mistaken.
 
NF, it depends on so many variables no one can tell you for sure how far it'll go before you lose signal. I strongly suggest you read the manual that came with your truck or, at the very least, share what kind of radio gear you have in it.

Keep in mind, battery strength, interference, weather, antenna length and the shape of your equipment all play a part. If you cut your antenna wire, you'll have major problems. If the RX is cracked, or gotten wet or excessively dirty, you'll have problems.

Chances are, all things being equal, you'll not be able to see it very well before you lose your signal. Best thing to do is keep it at a distance where, if it flips or crashes or starts acting up, you can get to it fairly quickly.

Again, sit down and read that manual cover-to-cover, man. You need to know as much about that truck as you can.
 
It depends on your location. For me, anywhere in my town, 100 yards is the limit before my FS kicks in with an airtronics mx-3 radio. Regardless of vehicle, that's my limit. When I went to a few other towns to bash with friends, I could get twice that. There must just be a buttload of radio freq in my area.
 
thanks monkey ill try and dig it out all i got handy is the spares catologe ill keep ya posted once i find it
 
Best thing you can do is get a fail safe.
A $20 dollar investment can save your vehicle if you lose signal.
 
RatzoRC said:
Best thing you can do is get a fail safe.
A $20 dollar investment can save your vehicle if you lose signal.

I was wondering when someone was going to mention a fail safe. Just like MW stated, there is SO many variables that can effect your signal to nail it down to anyone thing.


Ray
 
UM here's a tip...turn it on and walk away from it while your friend watches the servos move...then do it w/ the car on to see if the engine cuts your range down....simple test
 
RatzoRC said:
Best thing you can do is get a fail safe.
A $20 dollar investment can save your vehicle if you lose signal.

This is the best security for all RC'ers

This the second> Throttle return spring. Both will save you lots of grief as well as cash.

I don't about anyone elses driving styles but for me to try and see my LST, or Savage ( the two biggest rides I have ) from a quarter of a mile is WAY TOO FAR. Even the size of my LST would seem really small.I like to keep it close.
 
Last edited:
Most tracks will be smaller than 200 x 100 anyway.....that's a serious sized track BTW.....so at worst case you'd be 223.6068 ft away from corner to corner.......nowhere near a quarter mile and the thing will look pretty freakin small at that distance....
 
NiCd (Nickel Cadmium) or NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) batteries are the type of batteries that are rechargeable. Most receiver packs I found are NiMH such as these amongst many others:

Code:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFJT1&P=ML

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKKF2&P=ML

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHFP5&P=ML

Most batteries used to power electric r/c car engines are NiCD. In either case those batteries can put out a set amount of consistent current for X amount of time, after which the output current falls off very quickly.
AA batteries put out their current over a longer period of time but as they are used the current being output slowly is less and less.

The Failsafe units require the consistant current flow at a set range of voltage b/c they will kick in when they detect a drop in current below a certain point. The AA's for this reason won't work due to their slow rate of discharge and constant but slow drop in current as they are used.

Also note that only certain battery chargers can charge both NiCD and NiMH. I found this out after buying the receiver pack causing me to sell my not so old battery charger on Ebay and forcing me to buy a newer charger. Don't worry though, the dual type chargers are fairly cheap. Here's the one I got:

Code:
http://www.ehobbies.com/ItemDetail.do?hdnBrowseNodeId=15765531&hdnASINNO=B0006N6XWK&hdnCursorFocus=Search.do&hdnCurrAction=ItemDetail.do

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks, I have a hump pack but stupid me ordered it with a universal connector instead of the BEC:doh: So I'm stuck with AA's until I get a new hump pack or order connectors. That might explain why it went wot on me for no apparent reason.
 
Sumo, i just want to clarify, here. the reason a failsafe won't work with alkaline batts is because an alkaline battery is not designed to run a device with an intermittant high current draw like servos. because their voltage drops very quickly when the load is applied, they are better suited for devices that draw a small, steady amount of current like clocks or small lights. NiCd's and NiMH's are designed to hold their voltage up with a high current load. it all comes down to the discharge curve. a NiCd or NiMH will take a longer amount of time to drop the same amount of voltage as an alkaline. a failsafe is programmed to detect a slow voltage drop, not a fast drop like an alkaline will produce. a fast drop in voltage will usually cause it to activate prematurely or intermittantly, which in turn will cause you to have an ulcer prematurely from the stress of dealing with it! :)
 
Back
Top