Hobbywing quickrun 1060 esc issue

[RC_Felix_BB]

So I've got a problem with multiple quickrun 1060's from hobbywing. It seems to be a common issue where after a some time driving, the esc cuts to about 75 percent of it's original power even on a freshly charged (2s) battery. A possible solution that I had found online, soldering one or more capacitors parallel to the battery, didn't solve the issues for me. The esc is coupled to a standard tamiya silver can motor.

Does anyone know another possible solution?

 

[DavidB1126]

Capacitors would smooth out voltage spikes so that's why it wasn't a fix.

Have you tried recalibrating? If not I would try that first before anything else

After and if it is still apparent, how are the esc temps? Is it overheating any? 1060s are known to be in Tamiya kits so brushed motors shouldn't have any significant load issues with the 1060 so load issues can be crossed off the list...

What are your battery specs? Mah? C rating?
Also with what plugs are you running as well? Plugs and wire can built up resistance
One last thing I would check is voltage drop of the battery. Does happen when you really punch full throttle after about 2 seconds and it stays at 75 percent? Or is it just at 75 percent all the time? Does your battery have a external balance plug? You can get a cheap lipo 1-6s balance/voltage meter/cell checker with a alarm and have it in the car. I would set the voltage alarm to about 3.9v/cell and if the alarm goes off when you punch the throttle hard, well there's your issue, most of it to be exact.

Edit: one thing I left out, I would recalibrate the esc regardless but make sure your throttle trim is set to 0/center and your throttle EPA is set to 100 (done through the radio, if your radio has those adjustments.)

1060s are actually pretty decent even if they're RTR included ones. Not much out there for brushed escs that are more fancy or more reliable. Most of not all of the RC world mostly converted to brushless so imo there's no point in getting an upgrade esc, only an replacement if my possible issues above don't work.

 

[CertifiedMike]

If you haven't already, caps on the motor side help cut radio noise in brushed motors. Was non optional years ago.
You might want to look into them as well.
I believe @DavidB1126 is correct, recal sounds like it would fix this issue.

 

[xjtorc]

I don’t think they cut power if overheating, I think they shutdown completely. But I could be wrong…is the car you’re running them in overgeared? What are your temps when the power loss occurs?

If it’s happening to multiple 1060s, what are the constants and what are the variables? Are you trying multiple 1060s in the same car with the same battery? Or different cars with different batteries, motors, etc.

It sound like low voltage cutoff to me. Are different batteries yielding the same results? 3.25 volts, per cell, cuts power to 50% in the 1060.

Maybe obvious, but are the jumpers on the correct set of pins for lipo mode?

 

[RustyUs]

.... Does your battery have a external balance plug? You can get a cheap lipo 1-6s balance/voltage meter/cell checker with a alarm and have it in the car. I would set the voltage alarm to about 3.9v/cell and if the alarm goes off when you punch the throttle hard, well there's your issue, most of it to be exact.

Edit: one thing I left out, I would recalibrate the esc regardless but make sure your throttle trim is set to 0/center and your throttle EPA is set to 100 (done through the radio, if your radio has those adjustments.)....

Luv them things to diagnose.
I'd run the ESC in NiMh mode if using LiPo alarm onboard.