Hobbywing esc/motor combo looses power after 10-15 sec of full throttle.

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Md62014

RC Newbie
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Hobbywing xerun xr10 pro with a V10 6.5t w/16 tooth pinion in a Tekno eb410. The only thing i changed it the esc was Forward/reverse and brake. I have a fully charged battery. And when I take it out and go to full throttle. It's starts to lose power after 10 seconds or so. I let off till buggy stops. When I hit it again, goes full the looses power as it did. No
20230711_230315.jpg
accessive heat in anything. Running 2s shorties 6000mAh / 120c lipo.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Still have a lot of learning to do. First hobbywing combo.
 
Hmm.
I would re calibrate the esc.
I would also go into the esc settings, see what LVC is set for. If it set on auto, I would turn it to 3.2 - 3.4v/cell. Auto LVC could be messing it up.
Looks like you still have the clear plastic wrapping around the motor, I would take that off. Just for heat reasons. I did the same with mine.
Looks like the batteries are like Hoovo or like Zee shorties? Not the best batteries. But should still be fine? Make sure they are fully charged, balanced well. I would check the IRs too. (Hopefully you have a charger with that capability to do so)
After all of that and the issue hasn't gone away, I got nothing else.
Maybe someone else can chime in and see what they think.
I own a XR10 Pro myself in my B74.1. Paired up with the same motor, but in spec 13.5.
I never had any issues with it myself. Using Maclan V3 HV lipos (6100, 120C). I think I have my ESC LVC set on auto, can't remember.
Maybe the battery and motor solder connections? On the motor, doesn't really seem like a good connection? But if its working, its working.
 
Yup, the solder joints look inadequate. Need a more powerful soldering iron or at least a fatter tip and let it warm up reeeeally good.

Otherwise it should work... Did you check the blinkenlichten on the ESC? The LED color and blinking pattern could let you know why it stopped.
 
Thank you all for the great tips and advice. I'll check everything when I get home and fill you all in on my findings. Batteries are the Zee so I'll have to see how they work. I do have a decent smart charger. What type of solder is recommended? Lead or lead free? Rosin or no? Joints were soldered with a butane Weller. Was plenty hot but solder looks like crap.
 
I use a Weller 40watt station and does me well. Could be the solder.
I thing we usually use rosin core solder. I use Kester for the brand. Most solder that come with stations or irons aren't the best.
 
I use rosin core with a tin of extra solder paste. I use a 75 watt wellar led. with chisel tip. solder joints look cold to me.
zee .not my 99 choice.
 
I use this solder here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075WTX9WY

Very important to have a very thin gauge solder, no more than 1mm thick where I prefer 0.6mm to ensure proper flow to maximize heat... too thick of solder can cool the tip and create a cold joint :(

Also important to use a thick chisel tip on the iron that is wider than the diameter of the wire, here's an example with a cheap 50W iron from Radio Shack:
 
Well, you guys were right. It was solder joints. Resoldered and works great. For now I'll leave it as is. Would like a bit more speed but don't want to bump up the pinion yet. Need to learn more about timing and the effects. Did remove the plastic off motor... ugh.. it looked like it was part of it. Thanks for all the help. Really appreciate it.
 
Well, you guys were right. It was solder joints. Resoldered and works great. For now I'll leave it as is. Would like a bit more speed but don't want to bump up the pinion yet. Need to learn more about timing and the effects. Did remove the plastic off motor... ugh.. it looked like it was part of it. Thanks for all the help. Really appreciate it.
I'm having the exact same problem. I'm terrible at soldering. What exactly did you resolder to make it work correctly? The bullets, motor, or both?
 
Ok thanks! Any tips you have to pass on after getting the motor soldering fixed?
 
Ok thanks! Any tips you have to pass on after getting the motor soldering fixed?
Resolder it. Looks like it needs just a bit more solder too. The kind of solder can also make a difference. I use Kester for mine. Rosin core. I think it's lead free too.
If your terrible at soldering or dont want to do it, any LHS or any local racer/s in the pits should be willing to do it for you. That's the case with my local shops and guys.
 
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