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Help with stripped scews and etc plz

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sur3fir3

sur3fir3

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I didnt know exactly where to put this so I put it here. On my rig I have been stripping out an average of one hex screw everytim I work on it.. I just stripped a set screw on the diff :-/. I would like to know what.. if any methods you guys use to prevent this, and also how do you removed a screw thats stripped, and how would you remove a set screw thats sripped with little to no damage to necessary parts. please help me out I am completely frustrated with this at this point.
 
Good screws and good tools are a must to prevent stripping the hex.
Most RTR rc's have less than good screws, and if using a wrench that came with the kit they usually are substandard as well.

If stripped you can cut a slot in the head with a dremel cutoff wheel and use a slotted screwdriver to get a grip. If unable to use that method due to the screw being countersunk then drilling the head off the screw or drilling it and using an ez-out type extractor may work.
Heat also is very beneficial for stubborn screw removal, especially if it has had thread locker (lock-tite applied).

A good set of quality hex wrenches are a good idea if planning on staying with the hobby.
 
what allens you using? A quality set of allen drivers usually gets rid of stripping heads.
 
Sometimes, you can take a junk allen wrench (the cheap L ones), mix up some jb-weld, clean the head of the bolt really well to remove any oil/dirt and the wrench, then dip the wrench in jb, stick it in the bolt and let it cure. Then once fully cured, gently back the screw out. You should use a new/sharp allen for this.

That said, I've had to dremel a hub off the output shaft of my savage because jb didn't work. Basically, the hub was considered a loss. I tried just dremeling the head/hub to make a slot in the top of the screw, but I still couldn't get it to back out... I guess in hindsight, I should have tried just drilling the pin out... I was fairly new to the hobby at the time and didn't know all the tricks yet. So my first attempts were pretty invasive. :)

The hub was junk anyway as I was replacing it due to notching in the cup, so I didn't care, but was still a pain.

For most bolts that are visible (not set screws), cutting a slot in it with a dremel and using a standard screwdriver usually gets the job done.

Unless it's an engine head/backplate bolt where you can't get at it. Then your only course of action is to use a drill bit as large as the head of the bolt, drill the head off, then wrestle the head over the bolt stub and take the stub out with a pair of pliers/dykes.

I have a set of MIP wrenches that I really like. Cost a bit, but totally worth it. Seem to be holding their tips really well after a years worth of use, almost no wear at all. I tried OFNA and hudy, both of those aren't very good. They get dull pretty quick and then start stripping bolts.

I've read that EDS makes some really good ones too, I flipped a quarter when I bought mine with MIP vs EDS and got MIP:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=mip+speed&x=0&y=0

EDS: http://edsracingproductsstore.com/index.php?_a=viewCat&catId=39

I suppose I could have tried EDS for half the cost of MIP

$5.95 each
http://edsracingproductsstore.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=166
http://edsracingproductsstore.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=167
http://edsracingproductsstore.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=168
http://edsracingproductsstore.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=169

vs $13.75 each:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...ucts_id/14522/n/MIP-Speed-Tip-Hex-Wrench-30mm
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...ucts_id/14518/n/MIP-Speed-Tip-Hex-Wrench-25mm
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...ucts_id/14516/n/MIP-Speed-Tip-Hex-Wrench-20mm
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...ucts_id/14514/n/MIP-Speed-Tip-Hex-Wrench-15mm

Wish MIP made a phillips/standard driver and I could pitch my OFNA ones I still have... may get EDS for those. Christmas is here, something for my wife to get me. :)

I've read a few people bought these and like them as well:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...d/206639/n/Losi-8-in-1-Locking-Hex-Wrench-Kit
 
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I was using a cheap allen set, I only needed them temporarily, but thanks to olds97 I have a source for cheap decent drivers that I can buy one by one. What about cutting the end of the allen off to get a fresh edge, just to hold me over?
 
You can't cut them since they are hardened. You can, however, grind them down to a fresh hex as long as you do it gently. Overheating the hex will destroy the temper in the hardening process.
 
thanks rolex are there any 1/4 inch drive or 1/2 inch drive standard bits that are any good? or drivers that have an end that can be put in a drill? I want to use my dewalt compact 18v for my rcs, and the set I found ended up being sub par... anyone have experience with the dewalt bits or any others? I'll get the EDS ones it just would be alot easier if I could buy the bits instead. I know there are losi tips that fit into a drill pictured below

LOSA99126-250.webp


think a set of these would be my best bet?
 
EDS sells just the bits. Or you can buy sets.

Personally, for something you intend on using with an electric driver, I wouldn't get ball ends. They don't have much contact area on the bolts and are much more prone to strip them out. A ball end should only be used when it's a necessity and if you can avoid using a ball end to tighten down hard, you should.

I have 1 ball end, 2.5mm. It's what I use to install engine mount bolts, but I only use it until the bolt is barely snug, then I use my normal hex for finishing.
 
I didn't even see they were ball ends thanks for pointing that out... EDS here i come ;)
 
Also be careful using the 18V Dewalt they are pretty torquey (is this really a word?) Set the torque to minimum and use slow speed for better control. Me personally don't feel comfortable using power tools on my rig. The screws are so small and easy to cross thread. Be careful
 
I would not use a 18V dewalt drill. Id recommend a Ryobi Tek4 cordless screwdriver and set the clutch on the lowest setting....even then you have to be careful.
 
I've had some good success with using a smaller torx driver, I find it will grip better in the stripped slot. I've also used the weld way but that was with real weld and that was to back a broken tap out. All I have to say to that is when using a small tap such as a 4-40 always make sure it's a fresh one!
 
I only use button heads when I have to, unless they are 4mm. I like being able to use at least a 2.5mm for cap heads, 3mm if I can get away with a 4mm bolt.
 
come on guys these are toys not 200 mph nascars. Use your hands to tighten. Clean the threads ad a bit of locker and hand tighten lot less strip outs. Power tools are for big stuff, also I fully agree that ball ends are for angle,s only. for the cheap allens take your propane torch get the tip red then stick it in auto trans fluid will make it harder. This is just a suggestion that works for me.
 
Last edited:
geno22 said:
come on guys these are toys not 200 mph nascars. Use your hands to tighten. Clean the threads ad a bit of locker and hand tighten lot less strip outs. Power tools are for big stuff, also I fully agree that ball ends are for angle,s only. for the cheap allens take your propane torch get the tip red then stick it in auto trans fluid will make it harder. This is just a suggestion that works for me.
Click to expand...

Uhmm I dont need the power tool just to change a few screws, but when your rebuilding the whole rig it comes in handy. I use the power tools to remove the screws more than screwing them in.
 

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