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Help with setting idle needed!

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scrim

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Hello All,

I will start by saying I am new to this!

I am having trouble setting the idle on my HSP Warhead Nitro Buggy.

It seems as though the idle is too high, no problem, so I wind the idle screw out. The idle is a little lower, however now when I apply brake the engine will shut down. I can visibly see the opening in the carby shutting. So I then try tightening it a little, and now when I apply brake there is still enough air getting into the engine for it to continue running. However to get it to this point, I am back to having quite a high idle, to the point where it takes off on me and after some running I can smell the clutch burning and the brakes begin to fail.

I hope I haven't damaged the car too badly!

I cannot see how I can adjust the idle screw to fix this, so perhaps my problem is with the throttle linkages?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I have searched and troubleshooted for this but I cannot seem to find an answer.

Cheers!

James.
 
if i were you, i would take the air filter out, and make sure the idle screw is set at about 1mm - 1.5mm

did u mess with LSN? if not, leave it there. if u have, turn it back to stock.

then just adjust high speed needle. if the car stalls or bog down at full throttle, then the HSN is too lean, rich it out a little bit til u find the sweet spot.

run a couple labs between every adjustments.

gl
 
Richen your low speed needle an hour at a time until it idles right. You may have to compensate by rasing your idle a bit. You'll at least wanna clean your clutch bell and shoes with some fine sand paper.
 
I cannot seem to set a 1mm gap without the throttle closing completely when I brake. It runs fine once I raise the idle.
 
try this!

what i always do is first off ,crank your car and let it idle for a while until you get it operating temp. check it with temp gauge or spit test on head which i get it around 220/235 degrees then after that is when i start setting hsn turning 1/8 at a time then hitting the throttle on the tx after each needle turn.every time you hit the throttle the engine will tell you which way to turn your hsn,either its going to bog down (to rich,lean it)or its going to throttle perfect with your throttle finger,do that until you get wot and you should be set.trying to set your hsn when the engine is still cold is a waste and youll be at it for a while.i also put my car on a block of wood so when i crank it the wheels can spin free,after it warms up they will stop and the car idles perfect
and i didnt touch the needles because i know it ran strong the day before with the same needle settings.keep your lsn at factory setting and carb about 1.5mm gap and you should be gud to go!
 
Infact, I can't really seem to see the gap getting bigger or smaller when turning the idle screw - and I am certain that I am screwing the correct screw.

Just to check, should I have the car switched off or on (as in the electric servos, not the engine) while adjusting this? And should I undo the throttle linkages to allow it to move while screwing the idle in or out?

If I screw the idle screw in (as in clockwise) then when I brake the car does not shut the throttle off, however it now idles too quickly.

Ninja Edit: Does anyone know the standard needle positions for a HSP Warhead car?
 
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Richen your low speed needle an hour at a time until it idles right. You may have to compensate by rasing your idle a bit. You'll at least wanna clean your clutch bell and shoes with some fine sand paper.

I cannot seem to set a 1mm gap without the throttle closing completely when I brake. It runs fine once I raise the idle.

check your idle screw under your carb,make sure you can see that screw with your throttle open(filter off).some engines, that screw can be backed out so far it will come out of the slot on your carb slide and cause your slide to rotate freely or get hung up were it makes adjusting your carb impossible.(engine off,everything else on)
 
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I have just gone and had a bit more of a play, and I moved a few of the throttle linkages around so that the spring was nice and tight between the two adjusters (was previously loose). Not sure if it is supposed to be like this however it has seemed to fix the problem!

However I think I may have caused some damage to the clutch; the brakes are barely working now.

Car is now idling correctly and driving fine (about 4 or 5 tanks of fuel into the break in process, running it nice and rich with plenty of blue smoke under acceleration).

Is there any fix for the suspected broken clutch/brake system?

Thanks for the input!

James.

EDIT: Car is also struggling to change into second gear under WOT, does it every now and then. Could this also be a symptom of the clutch damage?
 
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sorry i got in on this late, the whole time i was reading that i was screaming "its in your linkage" and i would have saved u a lot of hassle. with ur current problem tho. check to make sure ur clutch isnt sticking. make sure that the clutch bell rotates freely without bind. if that is clear, check ur brake pads/brake disks. as for your shift issue. does ur transmission have a screw to adjust the shift point? that screw may need to be adjusted.
 
It's probably the linkage but you should have read the manual (RTFM).
You really need to know what screw you're adjusting before you make adjustments.
 
It's probably the linkage but you should have read the manual (RTFM).
You really need to know what screw you're adjusting before you make adjustments.


Thanks for your helpful advice.

To re-literate what I already said above, car is now running 100%, my only problem is the brakes are not working.

Does anyone have a link to any guides for brake maintenance?

James.
 
Thanks for your helpful advice.

To re-literate what I already said above, car is now running 100%, my only problem is the brakes are not working.

Does anyone have a link to any guides for brake maintenance?

James.

You're welcome!
 
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