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Help With PEDE - NO POWER

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Waste Land

Hardcore RCTalk User
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Location
Coronado Bay for now
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
I got my pede in today. Slapped in a brand new charged battery. All connections are hooked up right. Hit the gas &.....well.....I know stock XMODS that would kill it. If I pull the wheels off the ground and hit the gas it runs and the wheels balloon out, but on ground barely moves.

MSonik Tempo 11 ESC
Stock Receiver
Trinity Speed Gems 11 Turn

I set my ESC and still no change.

Pics of the setup



Red/Black Wire - Deans - To Battery
Red/Blue Wire - Deans - To Motor
Servo Wires - RX - Ch 1
ESC Wires - RX - Ch 2
 
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ESC Manual if anyone sees something i dont

FUTABA, SANWA, KO
HI-TEC
GRAUPNER, JR, KYOSHO
ACOMS
AIRTRONICS
White/Blue Red
Red
Red
Red
Black
Black
Black
Brown
Black
Red
White/Orange
Yellow
Yellow
White/Orange
RECEIVER TYPE POSITION POSITION 1 POSITION 2 3
M.SONIK-4 INSTRUCTION SHEET & WARRANTY
Please read & fully understand the instructions & warranty before use.
Installing your ESC.
Mount the M.sonik-4 as far as is possible away from the receiver, using double-sided
tape or Velcro. Keep the thick power wires away from the antenna and other thin wires to
avoid interference problems. The antenna should come straight out of the receiver into
the antenna tube and up and out of the model. Do not attempt to use any part of the
model as an antenna! The ESC should be positioned to allow cooling air to pass over the
heatsink, this reduces the risk of over-temperature shutdown. Make sure your motor is
fitted with 2 motor capacitors (0.1uF) - one from the negative terminal to the can and one
from the positive terminal to the can.
Receiver Connections
The servo lead on the ESC is wired for all manufacturers in the chart except Airtronics.
For Airtronics receivers you need to swap the red and black wires in the plug.
If removing receiver wires from factory-fitted plug, make a note of the positions of each
colour. To change the wires, lift small plastic retaining tab that holds each wire in place
and remove each wire in turn. Before refitting, please ensure that each wire is in line with
the adapter plug opening. Push each wire in until the plastic retaining tab snaps into
position. On some receiver plugs, the flange fitted may require removal in order to fit into
the receiver. M.sonik-4 ESCs are fitted with a 1.2A BEC unless otherwise stated.
Battery Connections
The M.sonik-4 is fitted with Tamiya style plug and bullet connectors at the factory.
(Some units come fitted with solder posts and loose wires.)
Reversing ESC wiring :
Black = Battery -ve / = Battery +ve / = Motor +ve / = Motor -ve
Forwards only ESC wiring :
Black = Battery -ve / = Battery +ve / = Motor +ve / = Motor -ve
Initial Set-up Procedure
1 Plug the M.sonik-4 into the receiver. Ensure plug is fitted with the signal wire facing
inward toward the receiver label. (Modify plug if necessary.)
2 Plug the steering/rudder servo plug into the receiver.
3 Connect the yellow/red wire bullet connector to the positive on the motor.
4 Connect the blue wire bullet connector to the negative on the motor.
5 Disengage motor to prevent the movement during ESC set-up.
6 Switch on the transmitter
7 Plug the Speed Controller into the power source (battery),
. If the unit is fitted with a switch, turn to the ‘ON’ position. The red and
green LEDs will flash for 2 seconds. If LEDs do not flash, it means there is no
receiver signal (Check connections).
8 If you want to change the Speed Controller’s settings you must press the button
whilst the LED’s are flashing. When the button is pressed, the neutral setting will be
stored. The green LED will now light, showing that the ESC is ready to accept the full
forward speed setting.
9 Move the throttle control forward to position where you want full forward speed to be.
10 Move the throttle control back to the neutral position. The ESC will now store the full
forward speed setting. The red LED will now light, showing that the ESC is ready to
store the full reverse/brake setting.
11 Move the throttle control to where you want full reverse speed/brake setting to be.
12 Move the throttle control back to the neutral position. The ESC will now store the full
reverse speed/brake setting.
13 With initial setup now complete (indicated by the red LED flashing alone for 2
seconds on the forwards only ESCs) the ESC will operate according to settings you
have chosen. However if you wish to change ‘Factory set features’ go to step 14 over
the page.
If your ESC is Forwards only you MUST run an 8A
Schottky diode on the motor. (Fitted across the motor terminals - Silver band to positive)
+5V
CAUTION! - If using external receiver battery, disconnect thin red wire from receiver
plug first. If using 2 ESCs in one model ensure only 1 of the receiver leads has the
thin red wire connected. Incorrect connection may damage equipment. If unsure,
ask model shop.
Red
Red Red
N.B. ALWAYS DISCONNECT ESC FROM BATTERY CELLS WHEN NOT IN USE.
ensuring all control positions and trims are central.
ENSURING POLARITY IS
CORRECT!
If button is not pressed within 2 seconds,
previous set up values will be used to program the ESC.
SIGNAL 0V, Common
Yellow Blue
Blue
LIMITED WARRANTY
M.troniks Ltd guarantees this product to be free from factory defects for 24 months from purchase date,
verified by receipts. This does not cover suitability for specific applications, components worn by use,
tampering, incorrect connection, alteration to original connectors, switches or wires(apart from the
fitting of an in-line fuse), damage to batteries or other equipment through use, misuse or shipping
damage. Our liability is limited to repairing or replacing units to original specification. Our liability will
not exceed the cost of the product. By using this ESC, the user accepts all liability. We reserve the right
to modify this guarantee without notice.
Copyright © M.troniks 2003
Feature Set-up Procedure
Reversing / Marine ESC’s (Reverse disable/enable)
14a During ‘step 10’ in Initial setup the red LED will light before going onto ‘step 11’, it
is at this point where you can disable/re-enable the reverse function.
Before ‘step 11’ whilst the red LED is lit, press & hold the set button, the
LEDs will toggle between green and green&red, when the green LED is ON alone,
release the set button. Continue on with steps 11 - 13.
15a The speed controller will now operate as a forwards and brake ESC only. (Please
note relevant motor limit and current ratings still apply)
16a To re-enable the reverse function you must turn off the speed controller, turn on
again and enter the setup as before, when the red LED lights, press & hold
as before, releasing when the LEDs toggle to green&red, again, continue with
steps 11 - 13.
Forwards only / Flight ESC’s (Drive Frequency & Punch adjustment)
14b Whilst the red LED is flashing press & hold the set button, the red LED will toggle
between ON & OFF, ON = Low Frequency operation, OFF = High Frequency
operation, release the set button at the desired setting.
15b If using the Sprint, the green LED will now flash, press and hold the set button to
select your punch setting. The green LED will flash 8 times, release the set button
after the desired number of flashes. ie.. Releasing the set button after 4 flashes
would put you on punch setting 4!
16b The ESC is now ready to run.
Trouble Shooting
When I turn the ESC on, the lights flash but pressing the set button
doesn’t do anything?
1. Check your transmitter is turned on and you have the correct crystals in.
2. Check the crystals are the right way round (RX-receiver & TX-transmitter).
3. Check that your receiver lead is pushed firmly and correctly into the correct
channel in the receiver
When I turn the ESC on, the motor starts to turn immediately.
1. Check to see if the lights are still flashing when the motor begins to turn, if they
have already stopped flashing when the motor turns, you have missed the setup
window, turn off and start again from step 7.
2. If the lights are still flashing and the motor is turning, your unit is damaged, please
return to Mtroniks service department with a covering note.
The steering works but I have no throttle?
1. Check the motor connections, check the motor and that the brushes are not
‘sticking’ (Flick the spring holding each brush in place)
2. Check you have plugged the receiver lead for the speed controller into the correct
channel in the receiver.
3. Check throttle channel operation with a servo to make sure that channel is not
damaged.
Throttle stutters under acceleration.
1. Receiver or arial may be too close to main power wires (See installation
section.)
2. Poor connection to battery/motor, check all connectors make good contacts.
3. Motor brushes worn, replace brushes.
4. Excessive current is being drawn by the motor, use a less powerful motor or install
an ‘MPOWER Cap’. (Available from all good model stores.)
The Speed controller keeps cutting out?
1. The motor is too powerful for that particular ESC model, choose a milder motor.
(Observe the stated motor limit.)
2. The ESC is getting too hot, try to position ESC as to get more airflow across it.
3. Possible internal damage to the ESC, return to Mtroniks service department.
Motor runs backwards.
1. Motor is wired backwards, check your wiring.
2. Motor is built wrong, reverse endbell position. (Rotate through 180 degrees.)
Capacitor Connections (If supplied)
μPower Cap - Connect the negative lead to the negative battery wire & the positive lead
to the positive battery wire,(The nearer to the ESC the better.)
MPower Cap - Connect the negative lead to the negative battery wire & the positive lead
to the positive motor terminal. (If fitting to a reversible ESC fit in same way as the μPower
Cap above)
 
Does the motor rev really high and the truck move slow? If so, watch the spur gear when you give it throttle. See if the spur is moving fast or slow (in relation to the nut that holds it on).
 
Maybe post a picture of the wires-end of the motor - you might be missing a brush spring.
 
Hmmm, very odd. Do the front wheels spin freely?

Another thing to check; have you removed the rear wheels to see if the drive pins are in place? You can check this simply by giving it throttle and watching the wheel nuts. If they spin and your tires don't, then you'll need a check axle pin. Shouldn't be more than like, 75 cents or so.

Also, how does the diff feel? It's a gear diff, so it won't be 100% smooth (it'll feel like a 1/8th diff without oil), but it should still rotate like a ball diff. The spur should rotate if you hold one tire and spin the other.
 
Diff is fine.....the wheels spin

It just seems the car will only work and then not event hat well without load on the car
 
It's gotta be something slipping, like a stripped slider. The only thing I can recommend to do is to place it on the ground, and give it a burp of throttle. Look at the spur gear, then the sliders, then the nuts in the rear wheels. See if anything is slipping/not moving. It should be fairly obvious if somethin is slipping.

Outside of that, the only thing I can come up with is possibly a false peak in the battery.
 
HeartBreak said:
It's gotta be something slipping, like a stripped slider. The only thing I can recommend to do is to place it on the ground, and give it a burp of throttle. Look at the spur gear, then the sliders, then the nuts in the rear wheels. See if anything is slipping/not moving. It should be fairly obvious if somethin is slipping.

Outside of that, the only thing I can come up with is possibly a false peak in the battery.

Nothing is slipping...its nothing liek that.

You can hold it down, and give it gas and it just doesn't move. Even if you plug int he batts directly to the motor is doesn't have that much power
 
What gearing are you running with that setup? It is hard to gear a Pede effectivly with a 11 turn motor so taht could be an issue.
 
redneckracer1979 said:
What gearing are you running with that setup? It is hard to gear a Pede effectivly with a 11 turn motor so taht could be an issue.

It had the stock gearing on it I think. I put on a brand new spur and the right size pinon today at the hobby shop when we were looking for the problem. Didnt help a thing
 
If you were running stock gearing then it is way too tall. I would try to go with a 12 tooth pinion which is the lowest gear you can fit stock I beleive. Stock gearing is 18/87
 
redneckracer1979 said:
If you were running stock gearing then it is way too tall. I would try to go with a 12 tooth pinion which is the lowest gear you can fit stock I beleive. Stock gearing is 18/87

Yeah we corrected that problem. Though it didnt help the no power problem....the truck plain has no power.

I'm starting to think the Motor is bad not the ESC
 
I think I just found the problem!

I measured the voltage leaving the ESC at 8.50volts...the battery was the same. So that means the motor is getting voltage so the ESC is good. That has to mean the motor is toast right?
 
NCNitro said:
Since you ignored my request to resize the image, I have deleted it. Please resize it before you repost it. Thanks.

I'm sorry Nitro. I didnt see your post until now.

I'm still getting use to this weird new way of post display. I havent been here very long since you got the new layout.

Sorry again:opps:
 
HeartBreak said:
I'd say it's a safe bet your motor is toast. How 'new' is the motor?

According to his auction it was a "new motor" but its got some wear no dout

I'm gonna see if my buddy has a stocker i can check out.

How much am I looking at for a rebuild kit?
 
To be dead-on honest with ya, I'd recommend a whole new motor. They can range anywhere from $25, all the way up to $70 or so. You might be lucky to get away with a new set of brushes ($5 or so). Just remove the springs and pull 'em out to see how worn down they are. They should be a fairly bright copper tone. If they are dull or cracked, they're worn out.

The other thing to check is the comm; if it is worn out (hourglass shaped), it's time for a new motor.

However, don't get downhearted yet. If you want to go the el'cheapo route, Tower Hobbies sells a motor called the 'Speed Secret'. It's a 14 turn quad, and it'll get that Pede up and haulin pretty quick. They usually sell for around $20 or so, and are decent little motors for the money.

The only question is if the ESC can handle it.

edit; here is the link to the motor: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJA78&P=7
 
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