Help! Wheel alignment & Fail safe help

[shawbee]

Newbie and Female

I just got a 1/10 colt nitro red bull rc. A little disappointed with help from the hobby shop where I purchased it . I expressed how inexperienced I was and asked them if there was anything I needed to buy or that I should know. They just gave me oil for the air filter and said make sure to keep it clean. I think it would be a good idea if all hobby shops tell first time buyers about fail safe. Nothing included in the manual of any system failures. If I was told then I definitely would have purchased one or at least been aware. Unfortunately I learnt the hard way the throttle was stuck on doing donuts at high revs. The car was very hot. The tyres need replacing and the car does not drive straight.

What are the best ways to wheel align?

What brand of fail safe is the most efficient?

Are the ones that are all in one:
Venom All-in-One On-Board Smart Temp Fail Safe Unit
Peak Temperature Memory
Traditional Motor Fail Safe
Digital Voltmeter
Overheat Fail SafeTM with programmable Throttle Limiter
Recommended?

Is there anything I should do to my rc after having it rev so hard and reach high temperatures?

 

[smittyzz]

I like the bumble bee fail safe. If you lose signal or your batteries die it will cut the gas to the motor, you can also use a button, but to do that you need a three channel transmitter and rreceiver combo. Most come with a 2 channel I believe.
I don't have a failsafe but that's something I might invest in.
I think you would be surprised with how many don't use fail safe just because they know there vehicle and there always preparing
I also had one run away with my first, but since then I haven't had any issues besides drenching a servo and killing it at wot(wide open throttle) and stopping it head on with my foot:/

You will find a lot of useful info and a lot of knowledgeable people on this forum!

Your also going to want to invest in a ir temp gun to watch your temps, the hotter its running the quicker the motor will die.
And always pit your piston at BDC (bottom dead center) as this will prolong the life of your motor!

 

[hamz9561]

If your rig has a 2.4 GHz radio system, the fail safe is built and is set as part of the binding procedure.

 

[Cornholio]

If your rig has a 2.4 GHz radio system, the fail safe is built and is set as part of the binding procedure.

From what I've just read its 2.4 GHz, so hamz is correct.

 

[Sixtysixdeuce]

Pretty much all the runaways I've had were caused by a faulty RX, which a failsafe wouldn't have prevented.

I have also had the failsafes themselves be problematic, causing loss of throttle/brake control.

I do not use them.

If your rig has a 2.4 GHz radio system, the fail safe is built and is set as part of the binding procedure.

For out of range, yes. Loss of power, the servos will stay wherever they were.

 

[smittyzz]

That's why I reccomended the bumblebee if signal loss or battery drain happens it cuts fuel to the motor, so it would take 4 to 6 seconds to die but a lot better then no being able to stop it at all

 

[Sixtysixdeuce]

That's why I reccomended the bumblebee if signal loss or battery drain happens it cuts fuel to the motor, so it would take 4 to 6 seconds to die but a lot better then no being able to stop it at all

That eliminates the possibility of the failsafe being the cause of control loss, but still won't help with a hinky receiver, where it's still got power and still receiving signal, but is not giving correct outputs to the servos.

I wish I could say it is something that can be avoided by purchasing higher quality, but I've had/seen just as many failures with Futaba & Airtronics as Spektrum and Flysky.

Of note is that I've actually had more problems with RX freak out on electric kits than nitro. Sometimes the ESC is the source of the problem, though. That said, I've also had receivers that performed fine static, but wigged out once the engine was running. Maybe the vibration, maybe some kind of electrical field being generated. Who knows.

 

[smittyzz]

I'm not saying your wrong... But here is the description...
Product Description
The Killer RC Bumble Bee Nitro Killswitch™ will automatically stop the fuel flow to your nitro engine during: radio glitch/signal loss, low battery, cut wires, or total battery power loss. You can also kill the engine any time you want by pressing the Aux button on your transmitter, or turning off the transmitter power button. No more plugging the exhaust, jamming up the flywheel, or pinching the fuel hose

Weight 1.5oz
Voltage 4-9v
Amperage 80mA
Auto glitch kill
Manual kill
Adjustable low voltage kill
Power loss kill
Adjustable engine temp. kill
Buzzer output
LED output
Works with most radios
First one stated is radio glitch. But I have no idea as I've never owned one. But I will at some point try it

 

[shawbee]

Thanks for all the help..
I made the mistake of buying this car for the love of the v8s Jamie whincup is my fav. I thought it would be made by a common brand. There is very minimal information of specs avalible, nothing in the manual just a list of parts with there part numbers. I have only found parts available from www.hhq.com.au they are the manufacturing and distributing company of my rc.
Sorry I can't provide yous with any real insight into my set up besides I am running a 2.4ghz and a 4x4 drive shaft transmission.

I did however test the batteries from yesterday and they were flat. There was nothing in the manual about a binding procedure :/

 

[smittyzz]

Binding is when you bind or link the controller to the receiver, yours most likely came already bonded together.
Its recommended to upgrade to a 6v hump pack! As you get a lot better response/runtime/and you donyt have to keep buying batteries!
The dead batteries are probably why your car was unresponcive, dead batteries =no control at all and servos will stay where they were last positioned before they die.