help starting my xxx-nt (yes i did a search)

[Banshee]

i went outside today to try to start my truck for the second time. the first time it wouldnt start because the ignitor and plugs were bad. well i got a new ignitor and new plugs. they both work great.
so i fill the tank, screw in the plug, place the truck on the starter box and put the glow starter on the plug. then i let her rip. it starts for about 2 seconds and stopped when i took the glow ignitor off.
so i tried again and again and nothing.
i keep flooding the hell out of the engine because the flywheel keeps spinning sending gas to the engine and it wont start. so i took out the plug, dumped the gas out of the engine and tried again and nothing.

i have no idea whats going on. its not the plug this time. the engine is at factory settings.

does anyone have an idea of what could be the problem this time? i think i am just going to take it to the hobby shop with everything and see if they can start it. but if you guys can help me out so i dont have to go that would be better.
thanks.

 

[RobH]

it sounds to me like rich setting is flooding the glow plug. whne this happens it looks like you have a dead glow plug (remove the igniter and it dies).

if this engine hasn't been broken in yet, then you should leave the carb alone until that process is done. if this is the case, you can try keeping the truck running with the throttle trim. this way you can keep the carb open a little bit. you can keep it this way for the break in process, but becareful not to use the breaks as you will kill it.

after your engine is broken in, you need to adjust the needles on the carb so the car runs properly. do a search for engine tuning. you should find at least two full threads on how to tune your engine.

after the engine is tuned, it will idle properly, it wont spit gas out the pipe and you wont see the dead glow plug behavior.

so you know, this is all very normal for factory settings.

good luck and welcome to the forum,
Rob

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Turn your low speed in 1/4 turn from factory and your high speed need in 1/4 from factory. If it still happens, look at your tank. Does the backpressure line connect to the LID or the tank itself? If its the tank, get the new one where the backpressure line is connected to the lid, OR, just install your own pressure fitting in the lid. Let me know if you need the info or pics.

More than likely you are set wayyyy too rich. Yes, rich for break in. But if it just plain doesn't run, you can't break it in.

 

[Banshee]

the fantom is broken in already by the previous owner. he said he ran a few tanks after break in and thats it.
ill try leaning it out a bit tomorrow and opening the carb just a little bit more with the trim. i dont think the plug is dead because i hook it up to the ignitor and the coil glows red like it should.

chris- if the back pressure line is the one from the exhaust pipe to the tank, then yes it is connected directly to the tank. nothing is connected to the lid. i dont really want to buy a new tank if its not absolutely necessary...let me know why i would need to get a new tank and how much it would cost?

 

[ImBroken]

The tank you have on your XXXNT is the older stock RTR tank. It works fine, but you will notice that if you dont run down the fuel in your tank & shut the truck down, you'll get fuel comin out the exhaust pipe... Gets messy... Before I upgraded to the new tank, I just ran the truck out of fuel before I packed it up...
It definately sound like your too rich... Take christians advice and lean it out a hair at a time till she stays idling....

 

[Banshee]

alright cool so i dont have to upgrade it if i run it out before i finish using it. one day maybe i will upgrade but right now i dont want to spend the money and i dont have the truck manual anyway to take it apart and put it back together correctly. I'm gonna get screwed when something breaks...
anyway, I'm gonna lean it out tomorrow after school and hopefully it will run. ill let you guys know tomorrow night how it goes.

 

[ImBroken]

Hey Banshee, you can always view the manual online.....
XXXNT Sport Instructions

Good luck.....

 

[Banshee]

ok i have my car outside and i did get it started. but i am now having some more probs. at first it wouldnt idle without the wheels moving so i adjusted the trim A LOT and now its fine. i dont really know what to do with the idle screw so i used the trim. but now it wont brake for some reason.
the car starts right away. it idles fine and then i go to run it and i use it for a few seconds and it dies. sometimes it dies at idle sometimes while I'm on the throttle. my longest run was like 2 minutes and then it died.
at first there a little fuel was kind of spraying out of the exhaust and there was no smoke. i richened the hsn a bit and now its smoking more when i hit the throttle. but its still dying.
i have a feeling its the lsn but i dont know. i also want to fix the idle and get my brakes back.

i need help asap because I've been running back and forth from the comp to outside with the car. its soooo fun to drive. i want to get it running good so i can run it without it dying.

thanks.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Take the air filter off
Make sure both your TX and RX are OFF
Close the carb with your hand (same thing the linkage would do)
Adjust the idle screw so that the opening is 2-3 mm open. About 2-3 credit card thickness.

Then, with everything ON, and adjust your trim back to where the carb is closed (the idle opening you just set will never close). Anything beyond the 'just closed' position should start to lean towards braking. With your trim in that area you should have both brake and full throttle response.

 

[Banshee]

ok i just did that. the idle screw seems to do absolutely nothing to anything. it just goes in and out and nothing opens or closes. is the throttle linkage supposed to be disconnected when i do this?

i can get it to run but it doesn't really idle. i am not on the throttle at all and the wheels are spinning like mad. and the carb is barely open. i richen the settings, i lean them, nothing. if i get the wheels to stop spinning at idle, it dies pretty quick and i have no brakes. if i leave them spinning and use the breaks to idle, it lasts longer but still dies eventually. I've been outside for like 3 hours and gone through like 3 tanks of gas and i dont know how to keep it running.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

If the idle screw is doing nothing then chances are you unscrewed it too far and unseated the screw housing inside. You may have to take the carb down. Did you try screwing the idle screw in all the way to get it to seat?

When you set your idle, you dont need to disconnect the linkage, however, it works easier if you do. Just use one hand to keep pressure on the carb and the other to adjust the screw. Then, when you reconnect the linkage, reset your trims.

 

[Banshee]

oh damn. that might be it. now what the hell am i gonna do. i guess i have to take it apart now. thats gonna take me all day.
but even if the idle is set, the car will still shut off right? so then i have to go at tuning again.
this is when you wish you know someone that is good at this stuff...

i guess ill start taking it apart on the weekend. it can't be that hard if i follow the instructions.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

You dont need to take it apart yet - just do what I said. Try screwing the idle screw all the way in (to the right) you will see the carb being forced farther open. When you see it start to push farther open, the thread should be set. Then, start turning it to the left.

The opening you want remaining should be about 2-3mm.

Once you get that set, and the trim set, turn your lsn and hsn back to factory.

How old is this mill? Engine?

 

[Banshee]

i turn it to the right and it gets really tough when i go far down. and yes it does force it open. seems like its about 2-3mm now though. a little more open than before. and i think i set the trim just right. i have brakes now.
I'm gonna try again tomorrow and see what happens.

question- at idle, the speed of the wheels moving is only controlled by the idle screw/trim? like how far open the carb is? or does something like the lsn also affect this. because today i could not get it to idle without moving for the life of me. unless my trim was way in the negatives. then it died.

so umm if you guys have any tuning tips for me to try tomorrow i would appreciate it.
the factory settings of my engine seem to be wayyyyy rich. like it wont even start it just floods. i would lean it out and it would start up but after a few times of it dying and me starting it again it would not start and it would be flooded. after i empty the engine out then it would start.

chris- it is a fantom .12 (the new 03's) non pull start and the previous owner said he had run about 10 tanks through it including break in. i ran about 3 today. well not really ran but i used it up.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

well you may be over turning the screws as well. The HSN and LSN only need 1/8th of a turn at a time and when you get to your sweet spot, 1/16th turns is all you want to adjust.

Your idle is pretty much the same. You want your idle low enough that the car doesn't run away but instead sits still. I set my idle low and my lsn rich enough that if I just let it sit, it will shutoff after about a minute of idling.

The wheels can spin when its on the starter box. Hell, its almost impossible to stop that. Its once you put it on the ground that you want it to just sit there. Barely, but sit there none the less.

 

[Banshee]

yeah i know it spins on the box but it spins off the box too.
so tomorrow i will work with the setting some more. i was making my turns to big. like 1/4 to 1/2 turns.
alright well ill get back to this thread tomorrow. thanks for the help.

 

[Banshee]

i give up. today i could not even get it started. actually i got it started twice and as soon as i removed the glow starter it shut down. i tried it rich, lean, everything in between, and nothing.
yesterday at least i could get it started just about every time.
i even put in a new glow plug and still. it wont start with factory settings so its hard to find a spot. how can i tune the thing if it wont even start up.

I'm starting to think it might be the engine or something....it is supposed to be basically brand new but thats just what i was told. i mean it looks new on the outside too but its whats on the inside that counts.

i think the only thing i can do now is take it to the hobby shop. those guys know alot more than me. maybe they can help me out.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

That sucks man! I hope you didnt get burned on the purchase. That would blow!

Let us know how the LHS makes out.....

 

[Banshee]

i took it to the hobby shop today. the guy helped me out alot. we got it running perfectly. so i got home and i went to start the truck to run it a little bit. it started, and i applied some throttle and guess what, it died. just my luck huh. and the hobby shop is rather far so i am stuck for a while.
so i kept trying and the same thing kept happening. i apply throttle and it just quits. i thought it was rich because the exhaust pipe was getting flooded with fuel so i kept leaning the hsn out and it would still stall.
i am sooo mad right now. i can't take it. even after i get a tune job from a tech it still doesn't work.

I'm gonna take it back whenever i have a couple hours to spare and see if he can figure out why the hell that happened.
if i cool off from this tomorrow i might go try my luck at getting it tuned. if anyone has some advice i wouldnt mind hearing it.

i just read imnotsure's thread about his drake and i think I'm having the same problem. fuel just goes to the exhaust like crazy and that just may be what is making it stall so much.

chris- where exactly could i get this tank (online) and how much? do you think that if i get the new tank that would solve my problem of fuel dumping into the pipe? i thought it was just way rich.