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Help me with this....
- Thread starter RatzoRC
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beason
Bash, Fix, Repeat..
the concept is solid. wd40 would do the same thing, but aro is made to be used as well aro.. i think you could use wd40 in a pinch but i would stick with aro as my usual. you may have a prob with the wd40 running down in the crank case and not doing its job, and isnt wd40 more expencive then aro??
Revo Rancher
Hardcore RCTalk User
I use WD40. The reason?: It displaces water and the main culprit of problems with these nitro gas motors is that the fuel is hydroscopic; it attracts moisture. WD40 in the piston and carb guarantees me that water is NOT attracted to the surfaces.
Traxxas actually recommended WD40 for after-run when they released the 2.5 if I'm not mistaken. The only worry is if it's going to degrade the o-rings in the carb throat and I haven't heard any accounts of that. So I'm guessing it's all good.
- Thread starter
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Personally, I said ARO---> (fixed it)
I guess I will have to broaden my horizons.
I've cleaned engines with WD, but always put ARO after I put it back together.
I guess I will have to broaden my horizons.
I've cleaned engines with WD, but always put ARO after I put it back together.
Last edited:
RatzoRC said:
What the hell is AOR ????
RAAMMMOOONE, get me the keyboard....
After Run Oil, I'm guessing.
I use transmission fluid... I use WD40 to clean air filters.
digger
Hardcore RCTalk User
I guess I am the only one that wouldn't use it then. To me it is more of a penetrant than a lubricant. You use it to clean an engine while it's apart. I haven't taken that many of these engines apart. But I know you don't get a lot of carbon build up in them. What little they get, putting wd40 through it is going to loosen it up. What is going to happen to the piston and liner?
A guy I fly with told me to use MMO (marvel mystery oil). Since he used to be a mechanic in the Air Force and spends a lot more on his engines than I could afford to, I trust him. He is also the best tuner we have in our club.
Found a couple of links on their website. Might look at and form your own opinion. I know it is a water displacement? And would stop rust. Hell of a cleaner for the car. But I don't think I'll use it in an engine. Just my $0.02.
http://www.wd40.com/AboutUs/our_history.html
http://www.wd40jobsite.com/secret_search.cfm?c=&q=&imageField.x=14&imageField.y=6
A guy I fly with told me to use MMO (marvel mystery oil). Since he used to be a mechanic in the Air Force and spends a lot more on his engines than I could afford to, I trust him. He is also the best tuner we have in our club.
Found a couple of links on their website. Might look at and form your own opinion. I know it is a water displacement? And would stop rust. Hell of a cleaner for the car. But I don't think I'll use it in an engine. Just my $0.02.
http://www.wd40.com/AboutUs/our_history.html
http://www.wd40jobsite.com/secret_search.cfm?c=&q=&imageField.x=14&imageField.y=6
Carls_Mammoth
RCTalk Racer
I use Marvels... heck, it looks, feels, smells(although it doesn't taste very minty) exactly the same as ARO. You can buy a whole pint for like 2 bucks at the local HWS. No problems here... 
WD-40 will dry and leave your metals unprotected if you store it like that for a couple of weeks.....MMO is the best solution....I have a gallon of ARO to finish, then I'll just buy MMO......I'm w/ digger on this....I've just not been impressed w/ WD-40 at all as far as a lubricant......it does say it's a degreaser/lube but I never could see how that could be combined in one fluid....if it degreases then it's breaking down oils and lubes....if it lubes then it can't be breaking down itself........as far as water displacement goes, nothing is better than DA......I keep a whole plethura of cleaners and lubes on my bench.....just a good idea to have choices....
Take a can of wd-40 and spray some in a cup. Let it evaporate for a few days. It will leave a white film. It's almost like it's a light grease. Whatever is in it to break down grease makes the grease more liquid so it can get into the tight places. Then, when the stuff that's not grease evaporates, you have a light film of grease left.
I've noticed it mostly when washing air filters with it. I saturate an air filter with WD, then work it with my fingers. Then under running warm water, I squeeze all the junk out and wash with dawn. The grease squirts out and looks/feels like white lith grease.
I've noticed it mostly when washing air filters with it. I saturate an air filter with WD, then work it with my fingers. Then under running warm water, I squeeze all the junk out and wash with dawn. The grease squirts out and looks/feels like white lith grease.
hmmmmm.....I just remember using it to store Bike chains and rear cassettes....I'd hang em and let em dry.....put the matched sets into plastic zip loc baggies and I'd always have to clean surface rust when I wanted to swap gears for different rides......and that was a pretty frequent occurance, so the bags would only sit like that maybe 3-5 weeks at a time......
truthseeker
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i tried some corrosion x on a motor that sat for 2 years. no rust anywhere and it was still slick. motor started right up no problemo. i've been using that stuff on my guns forever, so i gave it a try and it's great. it's designed for mostly marine applications, so it's hardcore stuff.
rocknbil
RCTalk Addict
While it's true WD-40 is a water displacement oil - in fact, got it's name because it was the 40th expirament formulated for that purpose - and that Traxxas indeed recommends it, in addition to the other negatives in this thread, you have to remember WD-40 contains solvents. The solvents accelerate the cleaning out of the inside of the engine, but if left for a long time they also evaporate, leaving a gummy substance almost worse than the goo from engine fuel.
But this isn't the deciding factor for me: some of the solvents in WD-40 contain low levels of acids. Acids etch metals over a long period of time. Since the whole point of ARO is long term storage, I don't want any etching going on inside my engine, no matter how minute.
ARO use is far overrated. The simple fact is you **really** only need to use it if you plan on leaving the engine to sit for more than a couple days. We just do it by habit because you never know when you'll be able to run next.
I use a 50/50 of ordinary automatic tranny fluid and MMO. If you know anything about auto trannies, you'll know they absolutely depend on keeping the tranny free of water because the least buit in there and the pads will disintegrate. ATF is a perfect displacing oil for ARO, mixed with MMO for it's lube and cleansing properties, this will give you a triple lifetime supply for about 6 bucks.
But this isn't the deciding factor for me: some of the solvents in WD-40 contain low levels of acids. Acids etch metals over a long period of time. Since the whole point of ARO is long term storage, I don't want any etching going on inside my engine, no matter how minute.
ARO use is far overrated. The simple fact is you **really** only need to use it if you plan on leaving the engine to sit for more than a couple days. We just do it by habit because you never know when you'll be able to run next.
I use a 50/50 of ordinary automatic tranny fluid and MMO. If you know anything about auto trannies, you'll know they absolutely depend on keeping the tranny free of water because the least buit in there and the pads will disintegrate. ATF is a perfect displacing oil for ARO, mixed with MMO for it's lube and cleansing properties, this will give you a triple lifetime supply for about 6 bucks.
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