- Thread starter
- #21
Would this be better?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0...&keywords=2.4+ghz+transmitter+and+6v+receiver
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0...&keywords=2.4+ghz+transmitter+and+6v+receiver
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havoc went for a swim,needs rebuild
- Thread starter cozhavoc
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Rooky78
RCNT Window Licker
That's a helluva deal there!
But it doesn't solve the batterY. Hang on I'll find you a part number.
Try to find DTXM2012
But it doesn't solve the batterY. Hang on I'll find you a part number.
Try to find DTXM2012
- Thread starter
- #23
And this battery pack
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0..._FMwebp_QL65&keywords=rechargeable+rx+pack+6v
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0..._FMwebp_QL65&keywords=rechargeable+rx+pack+6v
Rooky78
RCNT Window Licker
That should work fine.
cbaker65
RCTalk VIP
Those servo is good enough for a throttle servo ,you might want to invest in a stronger metal gear
steering servo.
But that is a sweet deal on radio gear!
Not sure what you mean by kill switch. Do you mean a fail safe? It's a device that will return the throttle servo to a preset position if signal is lost and you still have receiver power.
An actual kill switch is used on 1/5th scale rigs as they have an actual spark plug/ignition system and the switch will kill the spark and the engine.
Nitro rigs don't have a "kill" switch. Maybe something that can control a valve to close off fuel to the carb.
The transmitter/receiver you linked to appears to have a fail safe built into the receiver. I know my spektrums "fail safe" spot is where the servos were when I bound it to the transmitter. Found out the hard way that it not only sends the throttle home, but also the steering servo. I had mine pretty well cranked to one directly when I bound one of mine to the transmitter and the first time I went out of range I was WOT. The tires locked to one side as the engine dropped to idle, but it still flipped a few times since I was going so fast.
- Thread starter
- #28
I mean the switch that turns off the elctrics
This
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0...thproducts&dpPl=1&dpID=41XP+-dCRfL&ref=plSrch
This
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0...thproducts&dpPl=1&dpID=41XP+-dCRfL&ref=plSrch
Last edited:
cbaker65
RCTalk VIP
Yes ,they make regular pull starts for that engine ,thank God the o-way bearing is external on those.
I was able to start them with the driver & socket.
- Thread starter
- #31
Do I need a one way bearing lookin at em on ebay sellin them wit or without the bearing.
This sleeve aint wanting come off either these rc are different haha tried afew zip ties but it just snaps em and seem to a have something on the side in the pic not sure if need to use it ??
cbaker65
RCTalk VIP
That is just a pin to line the sleeve up!
There sure is a lot of discoloration in the sleeve/pist!
Do you have the original o-way bearing?
There sure is a lot of discoloration in the sleeve/pist!
Do you have the original o-way bearing?
That's just the guide so you put the sleeve in correctly. Try heating the crank case up to 200F or so with a hair dryer or toaster oven. Make sure to use a stove glove to hold the engine. I have a pair of these for when I'm removing engine bearings:
http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/sto...=&network=g&gclid=CNT4yJKvw8wCFZWMaQodGIwIew#
http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/sto...=&network=g&gclid=CNT4yJKvw8wCFZWMaQodGIwIew#
- Thread starter
- #34
Ya the original bearing for the hex drive will that fit in the pullstart. The discoloration is just on the top of the piston not the sleeve just looks like that in the pic
Perfect ya that method works on bearings too ya ill be using som oven glove or something how long dje usually leave rc engines in the oven for
I just check it's temp with a IR temp gun after a few minutes at 300F or so. Once it's around 200-250, take it out and give it a try again with the zip tie.
- Thread starter
- #36
Tried the oven last nite not a budge so tryin the oppsite today..its weird as fck putting it in the freezer but hopefully might work
The flywheel doesn't wanna come off either .
tried it after the oven aswell and nothin left it a 250 for about 15 mins and it was HOT.
The flywheel doesn't wanna come off either .
tried it after the oven aswell and nothin left it a 250 for about 15 mins and it was HOT.
cbaker65
RCTalk VIP
The oven probably didn't give it enough direct heat!
If you had a vise ,small torch an a wood dow or something soft to use to try to push
the sleeve out.
Also try rotating the piston as its heated,sometimes the piston helps push it out.
If you had a vise ,small torch an a wood dow or something soft to use to try to push
the sleeve out.
Also try rotating the piston as its heated,sometimes the piston helps push it out.
- Thread starter
- #38
Have try see if I can get a vice and torch hopefully freezer might do it the cold is spose to shrink the sleeve to make it easier slide out.
Got the reciever,transmitter and servo kit today good deal. Have it all hooked up not sure if its done right coz I turn on the switch and the remote and the servo just move once and stop??
cbaker65
RCTalk VIP
Awsome man!
I have that radio in my baja.
If the pist/sleeve is ok,but can't get it out ,you can cut the block at the bottom enough
to get a tool to push on the sleeve ,I have an xtra block that you can have for free.
I have that radio in my baja.
If the pist/sleeve is ok,but can't get it out ,you can cut the block at the bottom enough
to get a tool to push on the sleeve ,I have an xtra block that you can have for free.
Rooky78
RCNT Window Licker
Typically what you first power up the radio and reciever the servos will only move once as they are centering up.
