having issues with start up 30cc

[FSRacing30CCPAUL.]

Hi all. Nice to be here. Been meaning to join but to be honest I was looking forward to getting my car out first then was going to join after with some photos of me enjoying myself lol. But to be honest, I have not been unable to get to that stage., I’ve had experience with nitro cars never had any issues really, but I decided to buy something a bit bigger, I went for the Fs Racing 30cc 1/5th. Well happy with it, would be even more so if I could get it running lol. Anyway..

So where I am at the moment with this car. I’m having a lot of trouble to keep it running. I’ve tried absolutely everything.. when I first put fuel in it and was going through the running in process it started fine. After letting it idle for about 5 mins it cut out and would not start again. The revs dropped and that was it. After setting the carb richer it started and ran for 10 mins perfectly, I got it up to temp and turned it off. I came back to it once cold set the carb back to standard factory settings and could not get it started. Eventually, setting it to a richer setting it started but does not stay running. It runs for about 10/15 seconds the engine revs start to pick up on their own, “very high” the car looks like it’s going to move by its self and then it cuts out.

I then can’t get it started again for ages. It doesn’t seem to be flooding. The spark plug isn’t dark or black, I have a good spark but sometimes the little fuel bowl what you push empties and I have to prime again before starting, even then the car still does not want to start easy and still cuts off when it does. When I do get it started again it will go through the same process of ticking over fine but the revs building up by them selfs and then cutting out its starting to really bug me now.

Please can anybody give me some advice, it’s a new unit not secondhand. Everything looks fine. Doesn’t seem to be an air leak. There’s no oil/fuel leaking from anywhere, I got this car for my daughter who’s been slowly moving up through different models but we are not able to even enjoy this. lol. I’ve had many nitro RC cars, buying this I thought it would be a lot more reliable but it’s proving at the moment to be a lot more temperamental than a nitro RC car. , any help would be great.

Thanks
Paul.

 

[Beer_Goggles_RC]

Welcome! And sick right!

Sounds to me like it needs to be even richer on the low end of the revs are picking up at idle. What fuel are you running? What's your idle gap look like? Is the priming bulb empty as soon as it shuts off?

 

[FSRacing30CCPAUL.]

Welcome! And sick right!

Sounds to me like it needs to be even richer on the low end of the revs are picking up at idle. What fuel are you running? What's your idle gap look like? Is the priming bulb empty as soon as it shuts off?

Hello mate. Thanks for the replay. Once I got it going the second time round it run perfectly, but then when I set the carb back to factory setting I’ve not really been able to get it going since then. Yes, the revs are picking up at idle, it’s running unleaded mixed with a T2 25:1 yes sometimes the prime bulb is empty when it shuts off and other times it’s not. I’ve spent hours out there today in the absolute freezing. Fiddling with it.

 

[Chubaka]

Was this fresh fuel? My sugggestion to you is try to get ethonal free next time you refuel. Save alcohol for tge alcoholics. The smaller the engine tge more havok is wrecked by it.

Also is the air filter clean?

 

[FSRacing30CCPAUL.]

Was this fresh fuel? My sugggestion to you is try to get ethonal free next time you refuel. Save alcohol for tge alcoholics. The smaller the engine tge more havok is wrecked by it.

Also is the air filter clean?

Hi mate. Yes the filter is clean. The RC car is new, never been used. Sorry I don’t follow ? Alcohol free ? The car runs on unleaded fuel not nitro. ? Thanks for the reply.

 

[Chubaka]

Hi mate. Yes the filter is clean. The RC car is new, never been used. Sorry I don’t follow ? Alcohol free ? The car runs on unleaded fuel not nitro. ? Thanks for the reply.

Gasoline has ethonal. They cut it with that. Ethonal is alcohol and attracts moisture and breaks down plastics like in carbs and also fuel lines. Atleast here in tge U.S. not sure where you are located.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Hello mate. Thanks for the replay. Once I got it going the second time round it run perfectly, but then when I set the carb back to factory setting I’ve not really been able to get it going since then. Yes, the revs are picking up at idle, it’s running unleaded mixed with a T2 25:1 yes sometimes the prime bulb is empty when it shuts off and other times it’s not. I’ve spent hours out there today in the absolute freezing. Fiddling with it.

Is there a reason you're returning it to factory settings after you get it to run good?
Factory settings are a jumping off point, not the goal to reach.

 

[FSRacing30CCPAUL.]

Gasoline has ethonal. They cut it with that. Ethonal is alcohol and attracts moisture and breaks down plastics like in carbs and also fuel lines. Atleast here in tge U.S. not sure where you are located.

Oh ok. I’m U.K. based. The manufacturer states to run it on standard 95 octane unleaded mixed with a T2 oil.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Ethanol free is important. The high octane should help, not hurt.

I can't say what your issue might be but I have a few ideas.
Is your gas cap supposed to be vented on this rc?
Vaperlock in the fuel tank might be causing this issue.
How about blocked lines or inlets and outlets on the tank and carb?
How is the fuel flow to the carb when the bowl is off?
Its new, i know.
My new Ariens snow blower wouldnt run for more than a few mins, had to choke it and would die as soon as I put any load on the engine.
Pulled the entire fuel system.
In my case, a tiny screen between the carb body anf the fuel inlet nipple was clogged with rubber bits and metal flakes... might have been half a cheeseburger in there too!
Tank was spotless, feul lines and shut off valve...new new new... carb bowl also perfect.
NO idea how this happened!
Its possible that your carb does need cleaning or that the float on the bowl isn' t floating any more.
I also failed to seal the bowl gasket to the carb base and bowl. It wasnin place byt still leaked air. It must be sealed or the carb can't work correctly.If the bowl gasket is damaged, replace it
I used a thin coat of superlube on my gasket and it sealed right up (your might be an oring)
Just a few ideas
I know your rc isnt a snowblower

 

[CertifiedMike]

Also, how is your spark plug when this happens? What does it look like?

 

[FSRacing30CCPAUL.]

Also, how is your spark plug when this happens? What does it look like?

Spark plug looks fine. Rather than strip it all down I’ll send it back. It’s still under warranty at the moment. It has been running, I have a feeling it’s just the set up on the carb.

 

[FSRacing30CCPAUL.]

Is there a reason you're returning it to factory settings after you get it to run good?
Factory settings are a jumping off point, not the goal to reach.

No not really. Just wanted to set it at where it’s recommended for this engine. Maybe a wrong move. I need to try find that sweet spot again.

 

[CertifiedMike]

If I might be so bold... you need to NOT send it back if its just carb settings or small stuff like I mentioned.
That stuff is basic small engine tuning.
Don't let tuning deter you from a fun car!

Find the sweet spot on that motor and run it!
There ARE wrong ways to tune your engine. Watch a vid or 3 and you'll pick it up quickly.
Small adjusts from a factory setting ARE normal and ARE expected.
The only reason to bring it back to factory after you've got it tuned is if you managed to tune it too much and lost where you're at.
No reason to return it otherwise.

 

[Chubaka]

No not really. Just wanted to set it at where it’s recommended for this engine. Maybe a wrong move. I need to try find that sweet spot again.

If it ain't broke don't fix it. My boy told me that alot when I first started this addiction.

 

[fstnd]

If the car isn't starting at all, try to completely screw in both the LSN and HSN. The engine will now easily start and immediately lean itself out, so make sure to turn the engine off yourself once it reaches high RPM (after 2 or 3 seconds).
Now you have a cleared engine and you could start with turning out both needles by a half of a turn. This will likely be very lean, so richen the car from there.

 

[FSRacing30CCPAUL.]

If I might be so bold... you need to NOT send it back if its just carb settings or small stuff like I mentioned.
That stuff is basic small engine tuning.
Don't let tuning deter you from a fun car!

Find the sweet spot on that motor and run it!
There ARE wrong ways to tune your engine. Watch a vid or 3 and you'll pick it up quickly.
Small adjusts from a factory setting ARE normal and ARE expected.
The only reason to bring it back to factory after you've got it tuned is if you managed to tune it too much and lost where you're at.
No reason to return it otherwise.

Thank you. I’ll have another go tomorrow

If it ain't broke don't fix it. My boy told me that alot when I first started this addiction.

lol I’m starting to this now

If the car isn't starting at all, try to completely screw in both the LSN and HSN. The engine will now easily start and immediately lean itself out, so make sure to turn the engine off yourself once it reaches high RPM (after 2 or 3 seconds).
Now you have a cleared engine and you could start with turning out both needles by a half of a turn. This will likely be very lean, so richen the car from there.

iv got it going finally. Just a lot of perseverance of messing around watching a lot of videos that I suggested earlier. But now I have a whole new problem.

 

[WickedFog]

Thank you. I’ll have another go tomorrow

lol I’m starting to this now

iv got it going finally. Just a lot of perseverance of messing around watching a lot of videos that I suggested earlier. But now I have a whole new problem.

What problem?