Got a "new to me" nitro MT!

[olds97_lss]

Just thought I'd share my most recent purchase.

It's a HPI Nitro MT with a 15 nitro start on it. Running a Hitec 645MG for steering and I hitec something for throttle/brake. I installed my extra set of super maxx shocks on it as well. I need to get some lighter oil though. Also need to get a set of better tires. The pro-line tires on it really suck for winter use, just spin spin spin.

Oh, you may notice that I strapped on one of my homade receiver packs as well.

I also need to get a servo saver as I messed up the one that came with it. I'm currently just using a horn.

Enjoy:

 

[CorradoPsi]

nice little truck. i have one I've been trying to sell actually. no reason other than i just dont use it anymore. id recommend zip tieing your fuel lines to the roll bar to keep them away from the gears. also pick up a set of turnbuckles when you get a chance. the camber ones are most important because they allow you to tighten up the distance between the outdrives a little. the stock plastic parts flex enough to allow the dogbone to slip out sometimes. also iirc, someone makes a wide front bumper for it too. it would be i good idea to buy or make one to cut down on broken front arms.

have fun.

 

[shorty]

haha old's we now have a very similar collection all u need to do is put a s-25 in her and ur away. but no it is a good little car it was my first and i hated it cuz something always broke but now i have my savages it never brakes lol ant that just always the way the A!!
P:s what did u give for it ????

 

[olds97_lss]

$150 without a radio, but came with everything else.

What's the deal with the stupid fixed length turnbuckles??? Talk about no for-sight! My front tires point away from each other and there's nothing I can do about it short of buying $40 worth of turnbuckles.

I haven't run it much yet, but I'm pretty apprehensive about putting in much bigger of an engine. Considering how small all the dog-bones are and how the diff's are designed. I think I would have a psuedo maxx on my hands if I messed with the engine.

The good thing about it compaired to a maxx though is that it's way lighter, so a decent 15 can pull it around much easier.

Thanks for the tip on the bumper... I thought it looked a little exposed as well. I may buy one from RPM for the RC-10 or xxx-nt and modify it to fit. I had one on my xxx-nt and it was a life saver.

 

[CorradoPsi]

learn to love this link

http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/

 

[joneser4u]

Hey olds, if you wanna pic up some ponies from that stock mill, get yourself the OS 10e carb and a header. Wow, what a diff. Theres actually some power in that little fe believe it or not. Are your front shocks mounted to the C-Hub? thats already a weak point so I believe that might cause some problems.

 

[olds97_lss]

Thanks.... but I already installed a carb off my OS 15 CV-R(x)... hell of a differance. As for the header, I don't want to put any more money into it. I bought it to be a cheap nitro fix so I don't run my savage out in the cold so much.

For some reason, I couldn't keep the savage above 160 when it was 30 degrees out. That was with an aluminum sleeve around the head and an suv body without any holes.

I don't want to wreck that engine, it's been too good to me.

I had to f with the carb to get it to fit though. Drilled and tapped a couple holes so the carb screws would work like it did on the original. After that and a bit of RTV, it was so much easier to tune. It would actually idle!

Have you used anything other than that wierd bearing on the CB? I think mine jammed up on my yesterday... I actually push started it! It was kind of funny. Then after a few minutes, it broke loose again.

Also, I figured out the turnbuckle issue. Whoever built it didn't use the right ones in the correct places. I found that there was a front one on the rear and a rear one on the front. The rear ones are about 7mm shorter than the front.

After swapping those two and moving a ball stud on the rear, it looks a ton better.

Can't wait for it to stop raining to beat it up!

Yeah, the shocks are mounted on a hole that was already there. The mounting point looks to be the strongest part of the hub, so if it breaks, it would have broke anyway.

If I have a lot of issues with it, I'll get an aluminum upgrade.

Thanks for the info. It really helps figure things out on a new to me truck.