Going to throw my buggy off a cliff!!

[godale03]

Hey guys,

The weather finally cooperated and I was able to get some time to start the break in process for my OS RG X -P. I trimmed out the radio made sure all was working, and that I had approx. .5 a mil of opening in the carb. I filled the tank, primed the motor. Then hooked on the glow starter and postioned the car on the starter box. Gave it a spin and nothing. The dang thing would not start. I tried a few more times and then figured I had flooded the motor, which I had, because nitro was pouring out of the JP1. So I pulled the plug, cleared the head, and figured I would check the plug to make sure I was getting heat, sure enough I was glowing bright orange. I contiued this until I had used about a quarter tank of fuel. Figured the stupid thing would not start so I gave up since I was out of time. I needed to paint the living room.

So after that i figured I would try again. I set the motor to the settings in the OS manual ( which I had done before) HSN Three turns from closed. Didn't touch the LSN. Tried again. The thing cranked over, I thought I was gong to die. So I let it run a few minutes with its wheels off the ground for short runs like the manual said. Leaving the glow starter attached. Then about the end of the first tank, I put the car on the ground and tried to run in circles at low speed. The motor stalled and I was never able to get it started again. When it was running off the ground the wheels would spin for a second, but after a sec they would slow and the buggy would idle without the wheels spining. Now when I restarted ( Which I had no problems the first tank of fuel) it idled high and the wheels would spin rather quickly but it idled down after a few seconds. I checked the plug during the second tank and I was still glowing but all I got was nitro out the pipe. I said to myself what the ***K! I never got it started again. I am so freaking frustrated! I just wanted to run the bug over with the truck. I never had this kind of problems with my TMaxx. I had problems tuning, but never had problems running. Am I doing soemthing wrong? Or do I have a bad motor? Or worse yet did I kill the motor?

I am in need of some serious help.... please!!

Thank you so much in advance....

Tom

 

[vbgagnon]

lean out your lsn a little bit. It is rich, open your idle, these things should help you.

 

[Plaidfish]

Set the buggy on the ground.....
step back and admire your new pride and joy
take a deep breath ans say the following:
I accept that this is difficult, I know I have much to learn and I can do this....
If the little poop at the race track can make his go I can too....
when all else fails put it away and play w/ your T-maxx for a while to remember why you do this.....
and then take a deep breath and talk to rolex about getting it going cause he's the man when it comes to patience and explaining this stuff over the internet....

 

[mikeburgin]

from all the engines i have had they have all had similar factory settings 5 turns hsn and 3 turns on the lsn

 

[godale03]

Set the buggy on the ground.....
step back and admire your new pride and joy
take a deep breath ans say the following:
I accept that this is difficult, I know I have much to learn and I can do this....
If the little poop at the race track can make his go I can too....
when all else fails put it away and play w/ your T-maxx for a while to remember why you do this.....
and then take a deep breath and talk to rolex about getting it going cause he's the man when it comes to patience and explaining this stuff over the internet....

Plaid,

You are right... I will get this thing running if it is the last thing I do.... and yesterday I was near my wits end. I tried everything I could think of. Still being a newbie I am very hesitant to try anything to rash. Also I am not sure how things are supposed to act so I don't know what to expect. Although I didn't run the maxx yesterday I do know why I do this and I know it will be well worth the effort once I am tearing up the track. I just couldn't get it started to save my life. So I cleaned her up, put the after run oil in it and sat it on the shelf. I have the big picture in mind. I am not real sure what to with the LSN and Idle though. I mean the nitro is pouring out of the pipe, I mean maybe a half an ounce... My driveway looks like I had an oil spill.... I will have clean that up. If Rolex is the one I need to talk to then I hope he reads this post.....


I know how to close and open the hsn, but how do I adjust the idle, and the LSN? I do not want to mushroom the lsn needle so I am hesitant to adjust it yet.... besides I have read to many posts that say not to touch the lsn until your hsn is adjusted... who knows... I gave myself a headache yesterday. I have never had this much trouble with an OS plane motor.

Thanks again guys.....

Tom

 

[Plaidfish]

what engine are you running?
if you're getting that much nitro out the pipe then I'd say lean out the bottom first or you won't get it to start....just remember smaller adjustments on the LSN than the HSN are made....I'd lean it (LSN) out about 1hour and try starting it again...lean it out in 1hr incriments until it starts.....then make sure you got smoke when you blip the throttle......let it sit for a lil bit and do the pinch test....pinch the tube and see if it stays running smooth for at least 3 sec no more than 6...it should start leaning out at that point while your pinching the fuel tube to the carb......this seems to be the easiest test I've heard of to make sure your LSN is set good......then continue your breakin.......the idle is the easiest one to set...it will either be a small screw under the HSN screw or a screw in the end of your carb slide......take off the filter and look down the carb close the slide all the way you should see a .5 to 1 mm (approx) opening in the slide.....it should never go completely closed....unless you want it to shut off every time you go to neutral......if you don't have the opening then turn the idle screw in or out until you see the opening you want.....this should be factory set but I've gotten a few RGs from OS that were closed completly.......also get over the fear of making adjustments to your engine.....I know I'm afraid to do it too but if you want to learn you gotta get in there and do it.....just make the smallest adjustment you can each time and make a mark on your needles w/ a sharpie so you can go back to that setting when it gets outta whack too much.....I'm still in the learning curve myself but at least I'm not killing mills like I see a lot of guys doing......I get about 1 good day for every 2-3 bad days....just don't get frustrated by people saying stupid poop because you're not a pro at tuning....I get a lot of assholes talking poop near me but I just look at them and say "you were just a pro from day one right?"

 

[Rolex]

Plaidfish has given you some good info.
Find BDC or Bottom Dead Center for the piston, and put a mark on top of the flywheel.
First off, do what you did when it started for you. Reset to factory specs.
Start it and leave the glow ignitor attached. If it's spitting a lot of fuel, lean the LSN. When you do that, you'll probably have to lower your idle to keep the car from moving. Remove the ignitor and let it run out the tank.
If it stalls before emptying the tank, turn the flywheel to BDC and let it cool completely before restarting it.
When you restart it, you should give it some short blips to blow the 'snot' out of it since it's running rich. Keep it off the ground and allow the wheels to spin. Less chance of it stalling when it's not under load.
You might have to slowly ease into the throttle to bring the RPMs up till it clears out the oil.
Some engines can be stubborn and frustrating during break in, but be patient with it.
Do you have a temp gauge? It should idle at 200 or more. It's not unusual to see them get to 240 or higher, but if it goes above 260, shut it down, bring the flywheel to BDC, and let it cool completely again.
If the temp, at idle doesn't get to 200 or more, lean the LSN another 1/16.
If it bogs and stalls when you blip it to clear it, lean the HSN an 1/8.

 

[mikeburgin]

the meathod that rolex descibes is called cycle heating, it is essential you bring the piston back down to bdc after you have heated it to allow the cylinder to cool in the proper manner to maintain a proper shape and mating
Rolex i do beleive there was a thread already that described it with links to pro sites for info and any problems people have encountered i will have a search to see what i can find

 

[godale03]

Plaidfish has given you some good info.
Find BDC or Bottom Dead Center for the piston, and put a mark on top of the flywheel.
First off, do what you did when it started for you. Reset to factory specs.
Start it and leave the glow ignitor attached. If it's spitting a lot of fuel, lean the LSN. When you do that, you'll probably have to lower your idle to keep the car from moving. Remove the ignitor and let it run out the tank.
If it stalls before emptying the tank, turn the flywheel to BDC and let it cool completely before restarting it.
When you restart it, you should give it some short blips to blow the 'snot' out of it since it's running rich. Keep it off the ground and allow the wheels to spin. Less chance of it stalling when it's not under load.
You might have to slowly ease into the throttle to bring the RPMs up till it clears out the oil.
Some engines can be stubborn and frustrating during break in, but be patient with it.
Do you have a temp gauge? It should idle at 200 or more. It's not unusual to see them get to 240 or higher, but if it goes above 260, shut it down, bring the flywheel to BDC, and let it cool completely again.
If the temp, at idle doesn't get to 200 or more, lean the LSN another 1/16.
If it bogs and stalls when you blip it to clear it, lean the HSN an 1/8.

Thanks Rolex, Plaid, Mike, and VB. Rolex do I run the first tank with the wheels off the ground? After the first tank, do I start to run the car on the ground? Thanks I will give this a shot. I know it takes time to break in the motor but at this rate I don't think I will be able to race it this year... bummer...

Tom

 

[mikeburgin]

Thanks Rolex, Plaid, Mike, and VB. Rolex do I run the first tank with the wheels off the ground? After the first tank, do I start to run the car on the ground? Thanks I will give this a shot. I know it takes time to break in the motor but at this rate I don't think I will be able to race it this year... bummer...

Tom

I do run the first 2 tanks with the wheels off the ground at an idol

 

[olds97_lss]

I used to break in with the tires off the ground, but I've gotten longer and more consistent tuning with the engines later on if I start driving it slowly right away and try to get the temp up around 180 or so within the first tank. In between tanks 2-10, I shut it down, put the piston at BDC (bottom dead center) and let it cool to ambient temps. Normally by tank 3, I start leaning a bit to get the temps up into 200-215 range, all the while driving it around in circles and whatnot, but never going over 1/2 throttle before tank 5. Once I hit tank 6 or so, I start doing quick gradual spurts from idle to 3/4 throttle. Tank 7, I do the same from idle to WOT. By quick gradual, take 3-4 seconds to go from idle to WOT and let off. I do this periodically through tank 8, then start leaning for performance.

I'm on gallon 9 in my OS 21 RG and it's finally almost compressionless, but it still starts easy and runs around 220-240 during 80 degree days while bashing the crap out of my savage.

To find BDC, take out the glow plug and rotate the flywheel until you see the piston at the bottom of the stroke, the mark the flywheel with a marker so you don't have to pull the glow plug later to set it to BDC.

After every time I shut any of my nitro's down through it's entire life, I put the engine at BDC. I'm not sure if it helps, but I haven't gotten any less than 8 gallons out of an engine yet.

 

[Rolex]

I always run at least 2 tanks at idle with the wheels off the ground just so I can monitor the temp and make sure it will keep running. When that's right, follow Olds' advise.

 

[mikeburgin]

I always run at least 2 tanks at idle with the wheels off the ground just so I can monitor the temp and make sure it will keep running. When that's right, follow Olds' advise.

other reason for it is for oil saturation, hard to run it in with high oil when your trying to drive it

 

[Plaidfish]

RGs are just bulletproof IMO ...it's real hard to mess one up bad......tough little engine w/ some real down low power.....best bang for the buck mill.....I drive mine real slow w/o hitting the throttle...I set the throttle just enough to run it around in a circle for a tank or 2....let it cool at BDC then I do pretty much what olds said.....i usuall start the car on a slight slope so it doesn't strain the engine as it builds a lil speed....


I'm just playin I start it up and just go WOT first pull on hte trigger.....and I get 20 gallons out of my mills.....then I sell them on E-bay as christmas gifts to people for my pit man/mngr/dad/friend person so I cna't be held accountable....then I cahnge my name on all the forums and come back for pony rides.....or something like that...

 

[Rolex]

Nice to see you back, Crisco Head. Will you take $50 for that useless engine?

 

[Plaidfish]

No I say it's still good cause my dad is using it right now in my buggy as my pit man....but he's also the one who bought it from me off e-bay w/ my allowance money to give to a kid for his christmas present.....so no you can't buy it.....

 

[godale03]

....then can I buy it?..... Rolex doesn't need it.... he just going to sell it to me anyway....

 

[Rolex]

It's all yours, godale03. Buy an engine from Crisco Head if you're looking for something to throw off a cliff.

 

[mikeburgin]

Nice to see you back, Crisco Head. Will you take $50 for that useless engine?

were did this come from rolex ?

 

[Plaidfish]

some jagoff that bragged about selling a blown mill on e-bat to guy for his kids present......we flamed him good...he's not banned so he comes around every now and then and I think we do a good job shutting him down quick....search posts from cisco red and it's in there somewhere...real long thread....