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getting in to onroad

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GADawgs33

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Hey guys i have been in to rc for about 2 years now and in to nitro trucks for a year or so, now and i want to get into the onroad scene. I was thinking about

HPI Nitro RS4 3 18SS

or

orAssociated Nitro TC3 RTR Plus

or

HPI Super Nitro RS4 RTR

or

HPI Nitro RS4 3 RTR

what are the major differences between the supernitro and the nitro rs4's?

i want to have the best of the four right here, but also have the one that i can hop up the most and make a amazing car in every category ( SPEED, HANDLING, ACCERLATION, and so on)
 
In order, first to last:

NTC 3
RS4-3 SS18
Super RS4
RS4-3 EVO RTR (might as well get SS kit and learn about your car as you build it, though)
 
Major differences between the Supernitro's and RS4's are
Super Nitro's are larger (235mm vs 200mm)
Supernitro's are single speed vs the 2 speed of the Rs4's
Super Nitro's are discontinued.
 
If you are even thinking of racing it you will want to go with the TC3. I have an RS4 3 fairly hopped up now, but it is really not a racer. As far as a parking lot basher it is an awesome car, I still have mine for those 5 or 6 times a year I feel like running on road. I have been very happy with mine, but a racer its not.
 
I vote TC3 as well.

When you say hop up, are you looking to throw money at it for looks, speed, or both.

The TC3 has a huge selection of hop up options.
Hard core racing has the best titanium hop ups, but you will pay.$
 
NCNitro i was looking for more than a parking lot basher because there are no races around here and RatzoRC i am looking for the both of best worlds.
 
The Nitro TC3 fits that bill. I used mine as a parkinglot basher for a year before I started organized racing. All it took was a set of foams and different settings on the car. All the settings are in the manual.
 
NTC3 all the way. Get the 18SS for parking lot bashing. NTC3 can be used for both parking lot bashing and real racing. And the NTC3 plus is very competitive in racing.
 
REQUIRES: Radio: 2-channel with two standard size servos
Receiver Battery: 4 cell, 4.8V
Radio Batteries: 8 AA size
Engine: .12 or .15 rear or side exhaust non pull-start engine with
rotary or slide valve carburetor, short or SG type crankshaft
Starter: Starter box or electric hand-held starter with donut
Fuel: Car fuel with 10-20% nitro and at least 16% lubricant content
Tires and Wheels: Touring car type 12mm hex size
Body: Touring car style, 200mm wide
Misc Items: Fuel bottle, glow starter

If you only want to do parking lot bashing your gonna spend alot of $$$$$$$$$ on NTC3 kit on the req stuff (although a kit is better than a RTR) But if your just p-lot playing the RS4-3 Evo or the NTC3 RTR is a better choice.
 
Sure you will. You'll look back at another engine as you walk out the door with your purchase. It happens to me every single time
 
ok thanks alot you guys i think I'm going to listen to ya'll and get that NTC3

sorry what sites do you guys use for your hop ups and what where your first or what do you reccomend
 
Diver6127 said:
Sure you will. You'll look back at another engine as you walk out the door with your purchase. It happens to me every single time


you have that problem too diver?

with the factory team kit, there is nothing i would say needs hopped up. there are of course things you can change if you would like to though. but just get the car, build it, and then decide if you think there is a weak point you would like to improve on, or something prettier that you want on it. i run a bone stock FT NTC3 and love it. if you still want a kit, but a few less hopups in exchange for a lower price, look into the regular team kit.
 
If you get the kit, there are no hopups to really get. The Factory Team kit gives you everything necessary to race (2speed, threaded shock bodies, clamping aluminum hexes, front oneway, hardened chassis). The ABSOLUTE necessary item you should get is called "The Fix." It's available through eBay. I have yet to see it in the LHS.

What "The Fix" does is tie in your shocktower to the diff and gives it a solid feel. Of course, hit hard enough and it will break but left without "the Fix" even a slight hit to the wheel can damage your diff case and/or shock tower rendering it useless.

After that, a good radio and electronics are pretty much necessary as well as a r/x flat pack and failsafe. Get metal geared servos for steering. Hits to the wheels will make short work of plastic gears in the servos.
 
How much money do you plan on spending to have a car you can drive?

The FT Kit is the best way to go in the long run if you have the funds. Starting with nothing, your looking at 700-1K depending on how you do it. It ads up fast.

All the advice given is great but re-read CorradoPSIs post a few times and let it sink in if the cost I mentioned scares you a little bit.
 
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