• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

Fly Wheel trouble

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

InfernoBoy

RC Newbie
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
0
RC Driving Style
Hi - I am new to the sport of Nitro buggy racing and I just got myself a Kyosho Inferno MP 7.5 Kanai edition III. Built it with no problems (used to build electric biggys - so I have some experience). The heart of the buggy is a Sirio Turbo engine (forgot the model number - but it's not the Kanai Edition). Apparently, these motors are tough to break in? Basically, I got it started and let it idle through half a tank - then let it cool off a bit - then started it up again no problem and ran it around a bit barely touching the throttle. The thing moves! I can't wait to open it up after it's broken in. That's if I ever get it started again!!! I made sure the piston was in the right spot before I let it cool down. Later that day I wanted to start it up again, but to no avail - the fly wheel would spin 1/2 turn then get jammed. So I loosened the glow plug so it would not act as a compression agent and the fly wheel finally spun. But as soon as you put the plug back on - even loose - nothing. This is extremely frustrating and I am grinding the hell out of my started box.
Any ideas? This might not fall under the category of general nitro talk but I am new to the forum. Sorry if it's an inappropriate post... But I am dying here. :flaming:
 
I know these things can be a pain to break in. I myself broke a Pull start or two breaking in my XTM .18 and it is no where near the compression.

Try
Pre heating the block with a hair dryer or heat gun. Before starting.

Loosening the plug like you did.

Check for hydrolock (too much fuel locking the cylinder in place)
 
I hear ya. Actually, I did try the hairdryer but no such luck. In the case that it is hydrolock, what can you do?

Actually, now the nut holding my flywheel in place has become loose so when the flywheel turns the piston does not budge. Translation - need to take it apart and tighten that nut.

Growing pains.... what can I say.
 
In the case of hydrolock, you take out the glow plug, turn the car upside down, and turn it over a few times to flush it out. You will see the spray come out top of the head with it turned upside down.

Some people close the HSV when doing this so no more fuel enters the piston/sleeve.

Then you put it right side up, open the HSV to break ing, and try to turn it over again.

Personally I never closed the HSV valve for fear of forgetting and leaving it closed lol. I just cleared the chamber, slipped it over, started it, Once id died I would have to repeat because of hydrolock.

Hydrolock does clear up after it's been leaned up just past first breakin tho.

Please be carefull one members got some nitro in his eye while clearing the fuel out of the chamber, and it melted his contact to his cornea.
 
Holy cow! That does not sound good!

I will try all you suggested and see how it goes.

I appreciate the advice - Thanks a lot!!!
 
It sounds like you have hydrolock. Not sure of the spelling but basically fuel has replaced the air. air compresses, fuel does not :)

you can lossen the plug but and easier way is just to point the buggy straight up and roll the flywheel back and forth to let the extra fuel flow into the manifold.

you need to be careful that when you use the starting box and the engine isn't starting it's still pumping more fuel into the engine which will continue to cause this problem.

since you are in the break-in process you may have the low speed needle (LSN) pretty rich to once again that's putting even more fuel into the engine.

Also remember that when you are starting your engine just "bump" it with the starting wheel or box. Don't hold it down forever, that's not what starts a nitro engine. The starting device is used to get the crank to turn over but it is the combustion of the fuel that keeps it going. If it doesn't start after a few bumps then some adjustments may be needed: 1) there may be too much fuel, 2) not enough fuel, or 3) check the glowplug and make sure it still "lights up".

Good luck. Keep up posted!
 
Thanks, Flash!

Sounds logical to me. I will give this all a try and hope for the best. It's frustrating when you put all of this time and effor into building something like this and then run into problems. I'd rather be out racing the thing!

Hopefully I'll have some good news by end of day tomorrow. If not, it's off to my local hobby shop to have the guys over there take a look at it!
 
Last edited:
Well, guys - I ended up doing what you said and I actually got it started! So I patiently ran 3 tanks of gas through it and made the necessary adjustments so that I had a nice smooth idle. By the 2nd tank things were sounding a lot better. By the end of the day I was ready to roll. HOLY S*#@ does this thing MOVE!!!! I can honestly say that all of the heartburn paid off!!! I took it out with my friend and we had a BLAST!!!!

Unfortunatley, the day ended with the right front wheel coming off and me losing a wheel nut. Oh well. Hoefully the hobby shop will have the nut in stock so I can tear it up this weekend!!!!

Thanks again!!
 
Last edited:
if not check the hardware store, usually you can find the stuff you need for change you found outside of the store. :)
 
Yeah, I was wondering that myself. Worst thing is that they are not a cool blue color like the stock ones.

Good to know - thanks!
 
Back
Top