First RC Choice

[White_Crow_G]

Hi guys!
First of all want to thank you all for being kind helping me with so many advices.

I decide finally (100%) to star from Hobao TT 2.0 pro Kit (roller)

I did a little bit of research for electronics.
End up having 2 of them in my list
which is
Hobbywing EZRUN MAX10 80A
or
HobbyWing QuicRun 120A

the only major dif i found is sensored\sensorless motor.
and i'm not really sure if there is any reason to pay extra for the sensored motor, especially talking about buggy
So if you could help me with advice - that will be much appreciated.

The only thing i really stuck with - is the SERVO...
There are so many different of them...
like how many KG's i have to look at, speed, digitality etc...
Could you guys give me an advice for the servo in around ￡20-30

Thanks a lot!

 

[WickedFog]

Hi guys!
First of all want to thank you all for being kind helping me with so many advices.

I decide finally (100%) to star from Hobao TT 2.0 pro Kit (roller)

I did a little bit of research for electronics.
End up having 2 of them in my list
which is
Hobbywing EZRUN MAX10 80A
or
HobbyWing QuicRun 120A

the only major dif i found is sensored\sensorless motor.
and i'm not really sure if there is any reason to pay extra for the sensored motor, especially talking about buggy
So if you could help me with advice - that will be much appreciated.

The only thing i really stuck with - is the SERVO...
There are so many different of them...
like how many KG's i have to look at, speed, digitality etc...
Could you guys give me an advice for the servo in around ￡20-30

Thanks a lot!

I've never owned a Hobao, but it looks like a really nice kit.

The RTR version pictured below appears to come with Hobbywing's weakest 1/10 setup, which is their QUICRUN 10BL60 SENSORED G2 COMBO (2S)

So that will give you some dimensions to work with.
The motor (3650) measures:
36mm diameter and 50mm long
The ESC (10BL60) measures:
46mm long × 36.5mm wide and 34.3mm tall

And based on this pic, the ESC is mounted in there with the length facing front to rear.

So it looks like your total space used up in the pic below by the electronics is apparently:
50 + 46 = 96mm

So you would have to rotate the 10BL120 90° to make it fit.
The 10BL20 measures
52 × 39.8, with 39.8 being the dimension used front to rear.

So 50mm (motor length) + 39.8 = 89.8mm, leaving you 6.1mm to play with, when compared to how the ESC is setup in the pic above.

BUT - is the ESC's 52mm length dimension going to have the ESC hanging off the edge of the chassis? In that pic above, the switch apparently is hanging off the edge. And I am going to take a stab at it and say that switch is about 15mm wide. So that 60A ESC measuring 39.8 + the switch at 15mm would mean you have roughly 55mm for the ESC length, and the 10BL120 is 52mm. So I think you're safe there, but this is just a guess.

If that's all correct, you should have that extra 6.1mm to play with for motor length. So I would at least grab a 3652 motor for it. And the RTR version uses a 3900kv motor.

So based on all that nonsense, I would go with this combo, because it sounds like you're really wanting to skimp on the servo, and I wouldn't.
QUICRUN WP 10BL120 G2 COMBO (Sensorless) with the 4000kv 3652 motor.

Then put everything you can into a good servo. The more torque, the more speed, the better it will be. And make sure it has metal gears of course. The 10BL120 only has a 7.4v BEC in it, so you don't need to bother looking at servos above 7.4v capability.

Whew!

 

[White_Crow_G]

I've never owned a Hobao, but it looks like a really nice kit.

The RTR version pictured below appears to come with Hobbywing's weakest 1/10 setup, which is their QUICRUN 10BL60 SENSORED G2 COMBO (2S)

So that will give you some dimensions to work with.
The motor (3650) measures:
36mm diameter and 50mm long
The ESC (10BL60) measures:
46mm long × 36.5mm wide and 34.3mm tall

And based on this pic, the ESC is mounted in there with the length facing front to rear.

So it looks like your total space used up in the pic below by the electronics is apparently:
50 + 46 = 96mm
View attachment 226610

So you would have to rotate the 10BL120 90° to make it fit.
The 10BL20 measures
52 × 39.8, with 39.8 being the dimension used front to rear.

So 50mm (motor length) + 39.8 = 89.8mm, leaving you 6.1mm to play with, when compared to how the ESC is setup in the pic above.

BUT - is the ESC's 52mm length dimension going to have the ESC hanging off the edge of the chassis? In that pic above, the switch apparently is hanging off the edge. And I am going to take a stab at it and say that switch is about 15mm wide. So that 60A ESC measuring 39.8 + the switch at 15mm would mean you have roughly 55mm for the ESC length, and the 10BL120 is 52mm. So I think you're safe there, but this is just a guess.

If that's all correct, you should have that extra 6.1mm to play with for motor length. So I would at least grab a 3652 motor for it. And the RTR version uses a 3900kv motor.

So based on all that nonsense, I would go with this combo, because it sounds like you're really wanting to skimp on the servo, and I wouldn't.
QUICRUN WP 10BL120 G2 COMBO (Sensorless) with the 4000kv 3652 motor.

Then put everything you can into a good servo. The more torque, the more speed, the better it will be. And make sure it has metal gears of course. The 10BL120 only has a 7.4v BEC in it, so you don't need to bother looking at servos above 7.4v capability.

Whew!

WOW!
Thats impressive, to be honest with you.
I will do the calculations.
Really appreciate your reply.

Well, if i got right regarding servo - i just have to pay as much money as i can for any servo with torque above 20kg/cm

 

[WickedFog]

WOW!
Thats impressive, to be honest with you.
I will do the calculations.
Really appreciate your reply.

Well, if i got right regarding servo - i just have to pay as much money as i can for any servo with torque above 20kg/cm

Hitec makes some decent servos thst aren't too terribly priced.

Some people, including myself, have used the cheap Hexfly 35kg servos from Redcat. There are 35kg Amazon servos that aren't too terrible too.

What radio are you thinking about?

You will also need a charger and LiPo's.

 

[WickedFog]

Ok, so that switch is actually 21.2mm long, 13.3mm wide, and 16.25mm tall. So that gives you 2.7mm more room on the length of that 10BL120 ESC. So it won't hang off the edge of the chassis at all.

 

[White_Crow_G]

Hitec makes some decent servos thst aren't too terribly priced.

Some people, including myself, have used the cheap Hexfly 35kg servos from Redcat. There are 35kg Amazon servos that aren't too terrible too.

What radio are you thinking about?

You will also need a charger and LiPo's.

at the moment i owe an FkySky FS-GT3C with gyro reciever.
But after a first run (just 30 mins ago) i believe, i will return it (will test more tomorrow)
But i'm assuming to buy something from DumbRC

at the moment i start thinking if i need to buy an a roller kit and struggle
or should i tather go with simpler morot and just buy RTR
a belive, it ll be ease to swap whatever electronic i decide

Do you think it worth for me (newbie) to start from roller kit?

 

[WickedFog]

The Flysky is 10 times the radio the Dymbo is. I'd steer clear of that Dumbo radio.

...or should i tather go with simpler morot and just buy RTR
a belive, it ll be ease to swap whatever electronic i decide

Do you think it worth for me (newbie) to start from roller kit?

That's up to you and your abilities. If you're ok with soldering (which you won't even have to with that motor/ESC combo), and you're ok building things, a kit will teach you way more than any RTR will.

 

[White_Crow_G]

The Flysky is 10 times the radio the Dymbo is. I'd steer clear of that Dumbo radio.

it seems like i didnt set this up propperly. will try tomorrow.

I like building things, for exaple, today i re-build my wLtoys into CNC (including clearing diffs)

But i just start thinking if it worth to pay exast same amout of money for just a sensored motor as a dif and doing more work

 

[WickedFog]

it seems like i didnt set this up propperly. will try tomorrow.

I like building things, for exaple, today i re-build my wLtoys into CNC (including clearing diffs)

But i just start thinking if it worth to pay exast same amout of money for just a sensored motor as a dif and doing more work

Some cheap sensorless motors/ESC's will do what they cal "cogging". It's when you pull the trigger just a little bit and the motor just makes a whining noise, but doesn't move. It's only after you continue to pull the trigger farther that the RC will jump into action, which can be annoying, not having good low speed control.

A sensorless system won't do that. It will have smoother slow speed control, with little to no cogging, and will start to move as soon as the trigger starts to move.

But if you buy a Hobbywing sensorless system it SHOULDN'T do it, but I have seen sometimes people say their cheaper Hobbywing setups have cogged a bit.

 

[WickedFog]

And the gyro's built into RC radio systems aren't that great. I have tried them, and prefer running without them. But you'll just have to play with that and see what you think. But keep the settings low, and work your way up. You will find a sweet spot you like best, or you'll realize you hate it altogether.

 

[White_Crow_G]

another dumb question after a small research )
does it make any sense to use 4100kV motor with 3S and 11-14t pinion?
or should i aim on using 2S liPo's instead?
Or better solution will be to go with 3300kV motor and 3S?

I'm not going to do like 100 mph runs or something like this. i dont think i will appretiate over 40-45 mph speed

 

[WickedFog]

The 4100 on 2s will spin the motor 34440 RPM
The 3300 on 3s will spin the motor 39060 RPM

You can vary the pinion with either of those to get the speed you're after. But the 3300 will be hauling around a heavier battery.

So go with the 4100 on 2s.

 

[RustyUs]

The 4100 on 2s will spin the motor 34440 RPM
The 3300 on 3s will spin the motor 39060 RPM

You can vary the pinion with either of those to get the speed you're after. But the 3300 will be hauling around a heavier battery.

So go with the 4100 on 2s.

Gear down a couple teeth... theoretically, the 3S setup will run more efficiently. It's always a give/take. Does the heavier battery negate efficiency gains of lower kv motor while gearing down?

 

[WickedFog]

View attachment 227029
View attachment 227031
Gear down a couple teeth... theoretically, the 3S setup will run more efficiently. It's always a give/take. Does the heavier battery negate efficiency gains of lower kv motor while gearing down?

Yeah, you may have a good point there. But I just like my 2s batteries in the 1/10 buggies. 1/8, sure. That's just me though.

The better batteries are always the heavier batteries. Adding roughly 50% more weight to a battery by adding another cell could be quite a bit. Like another 100+ grams. So on a racer, that to me would make a bigger difference. Lighter is better right? Non-racer here, so just curious.

 

[RustyUs]

Yeah, you may have a good point there. But I just like my 2s batteries in the 1/10 buggies. 1/8, sure. That's just me though.

The better batteries are always the heavier batteries. Adding roughly 50% more weight to a battery by adding another cell could be quite a bit. Like another 100+ grams. So on a racer, that to me would make a bigger difference. Lighter is better right? Non-racer here, so just curious.

Wait 'til you get that flying pig up and running . Even on 2S, you'll appreciate the extra weight if running on rough terrain.

 

[WickedFog]

Wait 'til you get that flying pig up and running . Even on 2S, you'll appreciate the extra weight if running on rough terrain.

Flyin pig

Yeah, I know what you mean there. It feels like a tank. I love how the truck just floats down when I drop it too. It's a flying pig that rides on a cloud.

 

[CertifiedMike]

View attachment 227029
View attachment 227031
Gear down a couple teeth... theoretically, the 3S setup will run more efficiently. It's always a give/take. Does the heavier battery negate efficiency gains of lower kv motor while gearing down?

@OnwardGuinevere THIS chart should help with your rally build.

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

@OnwardGuinevere THIS chart should help with your rally build.

Saved this! Thanks! I was wondering if there was a site to play with gearing/kv for motors.

The kit comes with a 24T/48P pinion gear, so I was going to with "backwards" with that info for notice size and such. I'd like to run it 3S.

 

[Lukedavis]

Saved this! Thanks! I was wondering if there was a site to play with gearing/kv for motors.

The kit comes with a 24T/48P pinion gear, so I was going to with "backwards" with that info for notice size and such. I'd like to run it 3S.

The forum even has one

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

The forum even has one

Great! I will check that out. TY!