Few quick general questions regarding my new 1/8 buggy

[CaptainMTM]

Hi guys,

Recently purchased a new 1/8 nitro RTR buggy and thanks to great tips provided by olds97_lss and Scrogg I was finally able to successfully start it, gently run it and break it in. Many thanks guys!

I now have a few other questions regarding maintenance so hopefully some of you can help me out.

What is the best way to shut off the nitro engine? Today I did it twice by clogging the fuel line with my fingers. Is this the best method?

In order to take care of it correctly, what should I do for storing purposes? For example, say I want to store the buggy for a few weeks without running it. Other than emptying the fuel tank and fuel line and wipe it clean is there anything else I should do? I've read of people using "after-run" solution. Is this something I need to use after every day running it or only if I want to store it for a longer period of time. I still have fuel in my tank from today because I intend to use the buggy tomorrow.

Also, as a beginner I'm striving to have the engine run on a good balance, that is not to rich and not too lean. I've read that a good indicator of a good running engine is stream of smoke coming out of the exhaust tinted blue ideally. Does that mean I need to see smoke while it's idling or only when revving? Currently my engine only emits visible smoke while revving up but not while idling.

Sorry if these are basic and boring questions but I could really use some guidance. Thanks in advance guys.

 

[Rolex]

If you get a fine mist of oil on your finger while it's idling, that's fine. Too lean on the LSN will overheat the engine quickly. Getting a good take off after warm up means the LSN is set right. WOT, or top end is set with the HSN.
I never used after run oil if I was going to run within the week, only if it was being put up for a week or more. I would also run the tank dry.
Put several drops of ARO into the carb neck as well as through the glow plug hole and spin the engine to spread it around.
Set the chassis up on something to keep from compressing the springs and tires.

 

[olds97_lss]

Glad to hear you got it going! Also glad to see that your trying to learn how to take care of it! Kudo's!

I'm with rolex on the ARO (after run oil) application. If it sits a week, fine. More than that, I oil it as he suggests.

I stop mine by touching the flywheel with a screwdriver handle. This quickly stalls the engine and doesn't flood it (like plugging the exhaust) or lean it out (like pinching the line). It just stops it.

When I know I'm done for the day, I drive it until it's just about empty, then I go very easy on the gas so it drains the tank and lines completely. I just try to not be WOT when it runs out of gas, I try to be at idle. That said, you don't want to just let it sit there and idle for 30+ seconds and drain the tank as this will fill your crank case up with raw fuel usually.

Get a temp gun. They are pretty cheap these days (at least down here) and they will help you judge where your engine is running until you get a better feel for the sound and sight of an engine that is tuned properly.

 

[CaptainMTM]

Thanks for the tips guys!

 

[olds97_lss]

FYI, you can use marvel mystery oil vs ARO. You can also use WD-40 if you use it sparingly, but that's not generally recommended... except by traxxas.

 

[Scrogg]

I shut my new engines down by stoping the flywheel. Once they break in I run the tank dry and let it idle the last bit of fuel out. After that I restart the engine until it quits firing. That way I know there is no fuel in it. ARO , I do just like the other guys mentioned. AR0 eats O-rings and is bad for glow plugs FYI. WD-40, 3 in 1 oil work fine too.
Just be sure the piston is at the bottom of the cylinder before you store the r/c...INSIDE the house. Garages are not good unless they are climate controlled.
This makes a BIG difference in product life.

 

[CaptainMTM]

Again, thanks for the great advice guys!

 

[olds97_lss]

INSIDE the house. Garages are not good unless they are climate controlled.
This makes a BIG difference in product life.

That's a good point scrogg considering the guy is in Canada. Some serious temp/humidity fluctuations there. That would more than likely cause some damaged batteries and excessive water condensation in the electronics and engine.

 

[Scrogg]

Yep. I have a buddy who would not listen to me about this. He leaves all his R/C gear in his race trailer. He's ruined 2000 dollars worth of stuff doing so, he finally reallized I was not bullshitting him after an entire case of fuel went bad not too long ago.
He's ruined radios, servos, batteries and engines repeatedly over the last year. Expensive ones too!

 

[CaptainMTM]

I set a corner for my RC related things in the den which carries a lower temperature than the rest of my condo but still in the 16-19 deg. C range. Hopefully that will be good enough.