Fail Safe Prob/query

[ThunderTiger]

Just gotmy new buggy today (after my other one was stolen 18/7/05), so fitted the fail safe unit i bought 2 weeks ago (bought ahead of time to save expense).

Trouble is, on brand new batteries, if i try to turn through 180-270 degrees, the throttle cuts and the steering locks, also, the red "Unsafe" light flashes on the FSU. One other prob, is that testing the FSU revealed that when Tx signal is lost, the FSU throws the T/B Servo into accelleration, not brake. Whatin the HELL is goingon with it ?? is it faultyor just not setup right ? i was under the impression that youjust slapped em on and away they went. inever got anyadvice thrown at me saying that they needed setting.

Does this FSU need setting up or is it my brand new batteries ?

OH, and Plaid, if you read this, is 177.3 degrees C too much heat from a 10 minute run on 25% nitro based fuel ? (on a new engine at least)

 

[vbgagnon]

If your asking in general if 177.3 deg C is too much I woul have to say YES, thats 351.1* F. Richen that up man!

 

[Plaidfish]

HELL YES THAT'S TOO HOT....that's about 350*F....you should be between 100 and 120*C.......roughly.....set up is required on the fail safe...read your instructions dude.....hope you pulled your piston to bottom dead center after you ran that hot......should do it every time as a habit.....you're fail safe is probably going off cause your running 4.8VDC and at full servo load the voltage is dropping below th efailsafe's threshold.....get a 6VDC Rx Pack and that should help a lot.....

 

[jetmechG550]

Is it a Venom failsafe? One thought on the throttle being applied is that it is plugged in wrong.

 

[FastEddy]

Is it a Venom failsafe? One thought on the throttle being applied is that it is plugged in wrong.

Or you need to read the directions and set it properly.
http://www.venom-racing.com/instructions/vfs.htm

 

[supersavage]

Hey Eddy...Wheres the link to those instructions on your new site???

 

[Plaidfish]

Busted!!!!

 

[jetmechG550]

Or you need to read the directions and set it properly.
http://www.venom-racing.com/instructions/vfs.htm

Those things come with instructions :shrug:

 

[ThunderTiger]

THIS ONE, came with only instructions on fitting it. The batteries are indeed the suspect, so I've taken off the fail safe (DOH !) until i get my 6VDC rx pack next week.

As to temps, I've got the thing running so rich it almost cuts out on throttle up and full throttle, any more and it wont run. HOWEVER...... so I'm told, the Leaner it runs (fuel wise) the cooler the engine is due to more air being pulled into the engine and somehow i do not suspect that 25% fuel helps too much, but its all i have after lashing out £300 on a new buggy !!!! (no spare cash to get 16% fuel)

Still, its got a center diff and ball bearings throughout, so it goes and handles a little better than the last one did, but this thing just FLIES !!!! its good in the air too, only problem, is i keep rolling it under cornering which then leads into cart wheeling, fun to watch but has me on tenter hooks while its doing it, still, no damage done (YET !!)The suspension is set up right, but i fear it needs a little "Tweak" to get it perfect.

 

[Plaidfish]

Few things we need to clear up here....first the battery might be suspect as to why the FS is going off but you still need to set the action it takes...ie the acceleration part will always happen until you set the FS...
second:
leaner settings (less fuel/more oxygen) will cause you to run hotter...yes that will pull more air into the engine but that causes more combustion....or bigger explosions in the sleeve.....oxygen burns quick so the more you stuff in there the more it goes boom.....if you are running rich and it's a pig on the start then you need to lean it out on the HSN first...see how it affects the bottom...then start doing the fuel line pinch test to see if you're close to where you want to be on the low needle........
third: if you're traction rolling to easy try dropping th eride height overall...then try trimming the edge tread off your tires....the outer edge of tread is what will bite into the ground and just throw your car like a rag doll at a frat party......i start by doing every other spike on the rear tires first.....do outer and inner tread.....see if that stops the rolling.....if not do the front tires....if it still rolls then take off more treads from the outer and inner row.....inner meaning the inside EDGE of the tire.....

 

[ThunderTiger]

Hey Plaid, the engine is set up running seriously rich, enough to blow loads of unused oil out the EP. The suspension is as low as it will go on the standard mounts, and even with road tyres on GRASS, the thing will flip over. Maybe I'm too heavy handed on the throttle ??. As for the FSU, there are NO SETTINGS on it, its a "plug 'n' run" thing marketed by "Fastrax".

So what i was told about "Lean running cooler" is wrong, thanks for the heads up.

I can't run the thing for two weeks now anyways cos hit a low wall head on. The shunt caused the engine to slide forward slightly on its mounts and the flywheel "bit" a bolt fixing the rear brake pad in position and shattered part of it off, the fuel tanks rear mount snapped away causing it to pee fuel everywhere, and the front bumper needs replacing. In all, i need a new vented flywheel, new fuel tank and new front bumper !!!!! all within 3 days (inc wednesday when i got it).

My temp gauge is venom though..........

 

[Plaidfish]

sounds like you're on the right track thunder kitty.....hope you get back up and runing soon.....

 

[Revo Rancher]

I can't imagine any FSU is just "plug and run". Try this:

Next time you go to use your TT, turn on your transmitter, then turn on your Rx pack. Apply full brakes on the Tx, hold the brakes and press the set button on the FSU. After it blinks or goes steady (depends what it does when you press the set button) then let off the set button and let off the brake on the Tx. To test it just simply shut off the Tx and the FSU should slam the brakes on.

"Tenter hooks"? Ever hear of a band called "Orange Juice"? That sure brought back memories.

 

[ThunderTiger]

I had a good look at the FSU last night, the only "Switch" it has on it is a reset switch, no other form of switch or setup buttons AT ALL!! maybe i need to upgrade,however, for £20 i can't really whine or whinge about this one too much.

I did think of using a better quality FSU, but funds dictate i can't at present. Such is the state of "Play" with other hobbies and houshold projects (like the dreaded "Decorating" issue thrown around by our so called "loved ones"[wives, fiancees, g/f's])

Upside is, that asof wednesday, my new parts get ordered.

My question now is, if i upgrade to a 4 shoe clutch that is self contained, will i need a flywheel or not and is a flywheel totallyessential ? I understand that it helps the engine keep momentum under running, butis it possible to run without one ? Like i said, just a question mainly out of interest than anything else.

 

[Plaidfish]

OH MAN....you need to read this book:
http://www.southeastrc.com/item/MAN1014
I'm sure you can find it elsewhere.....maybe RushRc has em....but yes you NEED a flywheel....it holds your clutch shoes on th eengine.....it's the thing that has th eposts to mount your clutch shoes / springs onto......as far as the 4 shoe setup goes be careful...there are 2 flywheel sizes to get and you want the smaller one....Corrado knows th esizes, maybe he'll chime in and give us info on it.....I've only seen the larger size available in a 4 shoe configuration though....I use the OFNA one on my truggy.....besides to get a good shoe you have to trim down mugen clutches to fit...then you have to buy 4 sets of those to get an even number of shoes for 3 sets of 4 shoe clutches....more hassle than it's worth IMO....just get a mugen 3 shoe setup and be done w/ it.....carbon shoes and 1.0 springs..that's a pretty generic setup

as far as th eonly switch being a reset switch, you probably have to do what revo said in his post about holdong the brakes on (via the Tx) and press that reset button til it flashes or does something different.....but no F/S will be plug and play.....some throttle brake signals work one direction and some need to be reversed from the Tx, so can't see how they can make a plug-n-play one

 

[ThunderTiger]

plaid, the clutch I'm looking athas a backplate with it with the p[osts attached thats why i was asking about the flywheel.

The other factor about the 4 show, is that its a factory upgrade available for this particular buggy direct from thunder tiger.

 

[Plaidfish]

if TT makes one then yeah that seems like a nice upgrade...I notice the 4 shoes engage smoother...less jerk when you just stomp it...helps keep the tires planted..

 

[ThunderTiger]

so you would recommend upgrading to 4 shoe then ?

Hmm.....smoother engagement of clutch ? is that to do with the fact that the shoes are shorter or because there are more of them covering more surace area in the clutch bell ?

i do have other things i want to do, like stronger shock towers, ergal chassis, carbon servo tray etc etc, but i'm trying to do things on a "Shoe string" budget to see how long it takes me. LOL, even WITH money behind me I'm taking it easy !!

 

[Plaidfish]

I say run what ya brung and fix it on the fly......yehaw...if that didn't sound redneck I dunno what duz....

 

[ThunderTiger]

Lol, it did actually, I'm just thinking now that whilst the engine is "out" i may aswell upgrade it !! still thats another post.