Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I read your footnote and I'm going to your route as far as the back plateSpeaking of loose screws, I'm doing fine. Thanks for asking.
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/post-726317
The only info I would change in the above post is how to seal the back plate. I recommend NOT tightening down the screws for 24 hours.
Place the back plate against the siliconed block and start the screws to keep it aligned.
24 hours later you tighten them down with locktite. That way you don't 'squish' out the fresh silicone, but you will have actually created a thin gasket that will compress and give you an air tight seal.
I've used blue loctite on smaller screws, never had issue getting them back out.You can use that blue thread lock if you want to ,that's up to you ,but in my opinion ,
I wouldn't use it on any of the engine screws ,the engine screws will freeze on there ,an
in some cases ,the screw heads will strip an you wont be able to take them back out!
I would rather have a loose screw than a screw that wont come out ,the allen screws strip
very easy at the head!
I've used blue loctite on smaller screws, never had issue getting them back out.
I don't believe in straight metal to metal without a lock washer or loctite. I own a Harley, loctite is my best friend. ?