Engine sealing day

[CaputoNL001]

Now that I finally know how to take my Nitro cars apart, I will be attempting to seal two engines tonight

 

[cbaker65]

You can use that blue thread lock if you want to ,that's up to you ,but in my opinion ,
I wouldn't use it on any of the engine screws ,the engine screws will freeze on there ,an
in some cases ,the screw heads will strip an you wont be able to take them back out!

I would rather have a loose screw than a screw that wont come out ,the allen screws strip
very easy at the head!

 

[Rolex]

Speaking of loose screws, I'm doing fine. Thanks for asking.

https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/post-726317
The only info I would change in the above post is how to seal the back plate. I recommend NOT tightening down the screws for 24 hours.
Place the back plate against the siliconed block and start the screws to keep it aligned.
24 hours later you tighten them down with locktite. That way you don't 'squish' out the fresh silicone, but you will have actually created a thin gasket that will compress and give you an air tight seal.

 

[CaputoNL001]

Speaking of loose screws, I'm doing fine. Thanks for asking.

https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/post-726317
The only info I would change in the above post is how to seal the back plate. I recommend NOT tightening down the screws for 24 hours.
Place the back plate against the siliconed block and start the screws to keep it aligned.
24 hours later you tighten them down with locktite. That way you don't 'squish' out the fresh silicone, but you will have actually created a thin gasket that will compress and give you an air tight seal.

I read your footnote and I'm going to your route as far as the back plate

I will use the blue loctite

Only question I have is the tutorial doesn't say anything about sealing the head to the block, is it not necessary?

 

[CaputoNL001]

You can use that blue thread lock if you want to ,that's up to you ,but in my opinion ,
I wouldn't use it on any of the engine screws ,the engine screws will freeze on there ,an
in some cases ,the screw heads will strip an you wont be able to take them back out!

I would rather have a loose screw than a screw that wont come out ,the allen screws strip
very easy at the head!

I've used blue loctite on smaller screws, never had issue getting them back out.

I don't believe in straight metal to metal without a lock washer or loctite. I own a Harley, loctite is my best friend. ?

 

[CaputoNL001]

Glad I decided to do this, just started taking the high speed needle assembly off the carb...little bitch wasn't even tight anymore. Took it off with no wrench and little to no effort with my fingers!!! Probably explains why out of no where last time I ran the idle was screaming high!

 

[cbaker65]

I've used blue loctite on smaller screws, never had issue getting them back out.

I don't believe in straight metal to metal without a lock washer or loctite. I own a Harley, loctite is my best friend. ?

Oh ,well at least you didn't buy it for nothing then ,a Harley is a far cry from a 2mm to a 4mm Allen head screw though!

I have ran across a few people on several forums that could not get the head screws off ,an had to cut part of the
head off to gain access to the screws ,an they had to buy a new head!...

Its your call!...

 

[olds97_lss]

Yeah, I use locktight on the backplate and starter housing, but not the head bolts themselves. Never had one come loose. Probably helps that the head bolts are kind of sprung against each other, helps keep them from loosening.

 

[CaputoNL001]

No I don't see the need for the head bolts. Every time I have ever taken heads off it too everything I had to break those bolts loose. Where I see the biggest needis at the Allen that holds on the main dig bone cups