SkyRC Engine Heater battery requirements

[ReeV0]

Hi all,

I've just bought a Jato 3.3 to try and reignite my interest in the hobby after converting to brushless 10 years ago. I've not had a nitro since my original Revo 3.3.

I plan to break it in over the next few days, and am looking into an engine heater to make life easier. I was hoping to finally move away from lipos but looks like this device requres a 3s pack.

My question is, nowhere does it state the mAh required. Will 1300mAh suffice? I know these things can be very power-hungry.

Many thanks

 

[Littlemotor]

For break-in a proper heat gun is preferred. The RC specific, engine head heater doesn’t get the crank case hot enough imho. These fall roughly 80deg short of the mark, on a GOOD day. They are likely just fine on a Traxxas RTR motor, but not a chance on anything else. 2200mAh minimum.

 

[ReeV0]

For break-in a proper heat gun is preferred. The RC specific, engine head heater doesn’t get the crank case hot enough imho. These fall roughly 80deg short of the mark, on a GOOD day. They are likely just fine on a Traxxas RTR motor, but not a chance on anything else. 2200mAh minimum.

Thanks, that's interesting. I don't have a heat gun, but I could buy one for roughly the same price as the engine heater + lipo.

Do you think something like this would suffice? I assume I'd just heat the cooling head and crankcase, and monitor the temps until it reaches a certain level? I guess being heated air, I'd need to be sure not to melt any of the surrounding plastic parts, of which there are many! Especially in a small Jato...

 

[Littlemotor]

Thanks, that's interesting. I don't have a heat gun, but I could buy one for roughly the same price as the engine heater + lipo.

Do you think something like this would suffice? I assume I'd just heat the cooling head and crankcase, and monitor the temps until it reaches a certain level? I guess being heated air, I'd need to be sure not to melt any of the surrounding plastic parts, of which there are many! Especially in a small Jato...

I think the heat gun is a much better option, and especially if I were to choose one or the other, and not both.

Yes-you will obviously want to be careful while heating it, but that used to be the ONLY way. I’ve pre-heated all shapes, and sizes, and in much tighter chassis setup’s than a Jato lolz. It may be tight, but the indirect hot air isn’t exactly lava. Straight down on the center of the head into glow plug area, both sides of the crank case. All you need. Stay off of the carb (don’t want to boil your fuel, and push it back AWAY from where you need it to go), and absolutely zero need to heat the chassis, under the mount like I’ve seen sooooooo many people do..

Wrap your head with aluminum foil (or even a folded paper towel), and a rubber band, or ziptie. You want it to be 220-230F before you start it, and MAINTAIN that temperature while pig-rich. As you begin to lean on it, (around tank 5ish) you can fold your foil down, or remove it all together depending on what your motor wants to keep the temp up.

 

[WickedFog]

Thanks, that's interesting. I don't have a heat gun, but I could buy one for roughly the same price as the engine heater + lipo.

Do you think something like this would suffice? I assume I'd just heat the cooling head and crankcase, and monitor the temps until it reaches a certain level? I guess being heated air, I'd need to be sure not to melt any of the surrounding plastic parts, of which there are many! Especially in a small Jato...

I never had too much trouble heating the block and head with the heat gun. Most plastics can handle the heat. Just work the heat around. The EZ-start crap gets in the way more than anything.

 

[CertifiedMike]

@Littlemotor 's way is ok but you might want to try mine some time. Its a bit more involved and you'll need a friend or 2.