Engine replacement for .15 associated truggy

[Billys rc]

So I have an older associated truggy is is spitting fuel and has not fuel pressure if needle is open at all I’m pretty sure engine seals are toast I was wondering what would be a good replacement engine I kinda wanna do a fast build and now I have a reason. Any help would be great.

 

[D3MON]

might post a pic, their true "truggies" are 1/8 scale and would use a big block engine, but their stadium trucks like the rc10gt, and rc10gt2s would use a small block which the .15 is.
for small blocks we are kind of limited nowadays unless you spend a bunch of money for race engines.
which also brings into consideration what starting style you want. rotostart, pullstart, or bump box.
most common ones nowadays are the SH18, dynamite .19 mach 2, O.S. .21TM (might need to look into a manifold), and the TRX engines (personally wouldnt recommend especially since the updated rod, and their inflated price for what they are).

if it is the RC10gt, you would need either:
A short threaded crank, you can cut down a long threaded crank to a short threaded crank with something like a dremel or a cutoff wheel. then just use the existing clutch and flywheel assembly.
Or an "SG" style crank but there are some extra notations needed for that, as the AE .15 uses SAE bearings from the crank to clutchbell, the SG crank on them are 3/16" (4.8mm), so upgrading to another SG crank requires swapping out the clutchbell and flywheel because the rc10gt has a smaller diameter clutchbell then most and the pins for the shoes are also in a smaller diameter (aprox 14-15mm, whereas the standard is around 19mm).
i have heard that using something such as a traxxas T-maxx flywheel, clutch, and clutchbell is a way to get around this, but i cannot personally confirm as i have no tried it.
with upping the power too much though, you will want to be easy on it as the rear diff can only handle so much. they werent really designed to be in that high power situation.

if it is an rc10gt2 disregard the above, it uses Metric hardware.

as far as spitting fuel and oil, that is a pretty good indication of very rich needle settings, what engine is in it? should have markings somewhere to idtentify it, if you can't maybe post some pictures. the only real "seals" on the engine are going to be in the carb, or maybe the exhaust gasket, which are imperative that they seal to run correctly, as the pressure from the exhaust is what supplies the fuel to the carb, and if the carb is leaking it will suck in excess air causing lean running erratically.

 

[Billys rc]

might post a pic, their true "truggies" are 1/8 scale and would use a big block engine, but their stadium trucks like the rc10gt, and rc10gt2s would use a small block which the .15 is.
for small blocks we are kind of limited nowadays unless you spend a bunch of money for race engines.
which also brings into consideration what starting style you want. rotostart, pullstart, or bump box.
most common ones nowadays are the SH18, dynamite .19 mach 2, O.S. .21TM (might need to look into a manifold), and the TRX engines (personally wouldnt recommend especially since the updated rod, and their inflated price for what they are).

if it is the RC10gt, you would need either:
A short threaded crank, you can cut down a long threaded crank to a short threaded crank with something like a dremel or a cutoff wheel. then just use the existing clutch and flywheel assembly.
Or an "SG" style crank but there are some extra notations needed for that, as the AE .15 uses SAE bearings from the crank to clutchbell, the SG crank on them are 3/16" (4.8mm), so upgrading to another SG crank requires swapping out the clutchbell and flywheel because the rc10gt has a smaller diameter clutchbell then most and the pins for the shoes are also in a smaller diameter (aprox 14-15mm, whereas the standard is around 19mm).
i have heard that using something such as a traxxas T-maxx flywheel, clutch, and clutchbell is a way to get around this, but i cannot personally confirm as i have no tried it.
with upping the power too much though, you will want to be easy on it as the rear diff can only handle so much. they werent really designed to be in that high power situation.

if it is an rc10gt2 disregard the above, it uses Metric hardware.

as far as spitting fuel and oil, that is a pretty good indication of very rich needle settings, what engine is in it? should have markings somewhere to idtentify it, if you can't maybe post some pictures. the only real "seals" on the engine are going to be in the carb, or maybe the exhaust gasket, which are imperative that they seal to run correctly, as the pressure from the exhaust is what supplies the fuel to the carb, and if the carb is leaking it will suck in excess air causing lean running erratically.

might post a pic, their true "truggies" are 1/8 scale and would use a big block engine, but their stadium trucks like the rc10gt, and rc10gt2s would use a small block which the .15 is.
for small blocks we are kind of limited nowadays unless you spend a bunch of money for race engines.
which also brings into consideration what starting style you want. rotostart, pullstart, or bump box.
most common ones nowadays are the SH18, dynamite .19 mach 2, O.S. .21TM (might need to look into a manifold), and the TRX engines (personally wouldnt recommend especially since the updated rod, and their inflated price for what they are).

if it is the RC10gt, you would need either:
A short threaded crank, you can cut down a long threaded crank to a short threaded crank with something like a dremel or a cutoff wheel. then just use the existing clutch and flywheel assembly.
Or an "SG" style crank but there are some extra notations needed for that, as the AE .15 uses SAE bearings from the crank to clutchbell, the SG crank on them are 3/16" (4.8mm), so upgrading to another SG crank requires swapping out the clutchbell and flywheel because the rc10gt has a smaller diameter clutchbell then most and the pins for the shoes are also in a smaller diameter (aprox 14-15mm, whereas the standard is around 19mm).
i have heard that using something such as a traxxas T-maxx flywheel, clutch, and clutchbell is a way to get around this, but i cannot personally confirm as i have no tried it.
with upping the power too much though, you will want to be easy on it as the rear diff can only handle so much. they werent really designed to be in that high power situation.

if it is an rc10gt2 disregard the above, it uses Metric hardware.

as far as spitting fuel and oil, that is a pretty good indication of very rich needle settings, what engine is in it? should have markings somewhere to idtentify it, if you can't maybe post some pictures. the only real "seals" on the engine are going to be in the carb, or maybe the exhaust gasket, which are imperative that they seal to run correctly, as the pressure from the exhaust is what supplies the fuel to the carb, and if the carb is leaking it will suck in excess air causing lean running erratically.

It has a long crank shaft

 

[Billys rc]

might post a pic, their true "truggies" are 1/8 scale and would use a big block engine, but their stadium trucks like the rc10gt, and rc10gt2s would use a small block which the .15 is.
for small blocks we are kind of limited nowadays unless you spend a bunch of money for race engines.
which also brings into consideration what starting style you want. rotostart, pullstart, or bump box.
most common ones nowadays are the SH18, dynamite .19 mach 2, O.S. .21TM (might need to look into a manifold), and the TRX engines (personally wouldnt recommend especially since the updated rod, and their inflated price for what they are).

if it is the RC10gt, you would need either:
A short threaded crank, you can cut down a long threaded crank to a short threaded crank with something like a dremel or a cutoff wheel. then just use the existing clutch and flywheel assembly.
Or an "SG" style crank but there are some extra notations needed for that, as the AE .15 uses SAE bearings from the crank to clutchbell, the SG crank on them are 3/16" (4.8mm), so upgrading to another SG crank requires swapping out the clutchbell and flywheel because the rc10gt has a smaller diameter clutchbell then most and the pins for the shoes are also in a smaller diameter (aprox 14-15mm, whereas the standard is around 19mm).
i have heard that using something such as a traxxas T-maxx flywheel, clutch, and clutchbell is a way to get around this, but i cannot personally confirm as i have no tried it.
with upping the power too much though, you will want to be easy on it as the rear diff can only handle so much. they werent really designed to be in that high power situation.

if it is an rc10gt2 disregard the above, it uses Metric hardware.

as far as spitting fuel and oil, that is a pretty good indication of very rich needle settings, what engine is in it? should have markings somewhere to idtentify it, if you can't maybe post some pictures. the only real "seals" on the engine are going to be in the carb, or maybe the exhaust gasket, which are imperative that they seal to run correctly, as the pressure from the exhaust is what supplies the fuel to the carb, and if the carb is leaking it will suck in excess air causing lean running erratically.

 

[Billys rc]

It is the .15 and is a long crankshaft and idk what seals would be on the carburetor.

 

[D3MON]

It is the .15 and is a long crankshaft and idk what seals would be on the carburetor.

long threaded crankshaft? or the SG style crankshaft?
also do need to confirm what model it is to make sure to get you best info.

 

[cbaker65]

It is the .15 and is a long crankshaft and idk what seals would be on the carburetor.

You can seal the carb up with some copper sensor safe gasket sealer on the carb throat & back plate
only ,then take your carb needle out ,an rub a little wheel bearing grease on the needle O-rings ,more
than likely they had shrunk & hardened over time!
Make sure that you run them in first an count the turns as you do ,then when you put them back
in from pulling them out ,you will know where the settings were at!
Next ,make sure that the cylinder head screws are still tight ,sometimes the work loose causing the
head to leak ,then try firing it up ,also make sure that the engine is not still on its break-in setting ,
like Demon mentioned earlier about it maybe set too rich of fuel!..

 

[cbaker65]

What an engine looks like after it had never been tuned off of the break-in setting & running
it rich ,an what the head looks like when it leaked!

 

[Billys rc]

long threaded crankshaft? or the SG style crankshaft?
also do need to confirm what model it is to make sure to get you best info.

It is the gt2

 

[cbaker65]

An what it looks like after I cleaned it up & sealed it!

 

[Billys rc]

What an engine looks like after it had never been tuned off of the break-in setting & running
it rich ,an what the head looks like when it leaked!

View attachment 125884

That’s how mine looks I bought it used and I wanna get it running.

 

[cbaker65]

That’s how mine looks I bought it used and I wanna get it running.

The engine that I showed was used too when I got it ,the person that had it ,did not know that it was suppose to
be tuned after the break-in procedure ,it will lag in power ,so thats why the person gave up on it because he simply
did not know how!
I got the truck free ,an it is like new!...

 

[Billys rc]

The engine that I showed was used too when I got it ,the person that had it ,did not know that it was suppose to
be tuned after the break-in procedure ,it will lag in power ,so thats why the person gave up on it because he simply
did not know how!
I got the truck free ,an it is like new!...

So what did you do to get it going? I did the cleaning it. But now it won’t start and it’s spitting fuel everywhere and I’m just getting fed up. It is a p/s and if I close the fuel needle completely it will hold fuel in the lines but if open will not build pressure

 

[D3MON]

It is the gt2

ok, if it was stock most likely was SG carnkshaft style, so Dynamite .19, SH18 (will need crank cut), and O.S. .21TM should all drop in.
to your last comment, it shouldnt hold fuel per se, it should flow through. start at factory settings which will be rich.
ensure that no fuel is coming out of the needles at any point when you are priming it.

 

[cbaker65]

So what did you do to get it going? I did the cleaning it. But now it won’t start and it’s spitting fuel everywhere and I’m just getting fed up. It is a p/s and if I close the fuel needle completely it will hold fuel in the lines but if open will not build pressure

 

[D3MON]

fuel should freely flow into the engine. if fuel is not flowing freely into the carb, then you are having issues with things either being plugged, or gummed up, or the idle is completely closing

 

[cbaker65]

Could be the tank seal leaking an the tank not holding the pressure via ,from the muffler pressure line!

 

[D3MON]

Could be the tank seal leaking an the tank not holding the pressure via ,from the muffler pressure line!

or that lol i forget about that woops

 

[Billys rc]

Is should I try and replace the tank and go from there?

 

[D3MON]

i would see if you might be able to adjust the o-ring or get a new silicone o-ring first, tanks for those are not cheap because of their age and people buying them up. last i saw was around 55$ on ebay, though you may have better luck finding one than i.