Electronics and other bits for my B74.1D

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DavidB1126

Team Bomb Pop
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Location
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RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
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Started to create a list of electronics that I am going to get.

Hobbywing Xerun XR10 Stock or Pro with MOD motor
Savox or protek servo
Pro match racing shorty LiPo battery with trx connector x2
Start out with my radiolink first. Upgrade to futaba/sanwa in the future (Futaba 4PM, Sanwa MT44 or MT5)
5mm bullet connectors for ESC
Proline or Jconcepts clay tires & dirt tires
Servo horn (Have a traxxas one in spare parts pin, 25t, might be too long)
Fans
Pinion gear

Extra bits for carpet racing:
Schumacher carpet tires
Slipper clutch assembly

Other tools:
Camber gauge
Ride height gauge
Hobbywing LCD programmer
Temp gun for motor
New pit mat
Chassis protector
Paint for body
Pit light

Also might make a list on what breaks the most so I got spares at the track like suspension arms, links, spur gear etc..
 
Also might make a list on what breaks the most so I got spares at the track like suspension arms, links, spur gear etc..

Yes,
But, after 2 years of racing, the most commun broken parts in my case has been the steering bell crank and SBC input arm...

B74re.JPG


If the track is bumpy with hard walls... Watch out..
And was kind of BO last summer... Thinking of 3D printer...
 
Me and my uncle had a talk about electronics and everything. Here will be my new list

Hobbywing xr10 pro (so I can run mod in the future) OR find a hobbywing v3.1 because that is what he runs

Servo: Xpert 4000 servo on amain. Has a lot of speed and torque and durable. (This is what he uses. He had no problems with this servo before)

Lipos are the same. SMC or Promatch shorty 7.4 lipos

Going to start out with my Radiolink and then I'll upgrade to a mid range futaba.
 
Me and my uncle had a talk about electronics and everything. Here will be my new list

Hobbywing xr10 pro (so I can run mod in the future) OR find a hobbywing v3.1 because that is what he runs

Servo: Xpert 4000 servo on amain. Has a lot of speed and torque and durable. (This is what he uses. He had no problems with this servo before)

Lipos are the same. SMC or Promatch shorty 7.4 lipos

Going to start out with my Radiolink and then I'll upgrade to a mid range futaba.
My recommendation is hobby wing just stock combo if you are on a budget, or just stock esc and trinity slot machine 13.5 motor.

3.1 is an old esc, hobby wing still makes it but under quick run 120 bl name. I would suggest to stay away from it. It's just way too old and doesn't have a lot of adjustments, it's not as refined as xr10 just stock. Spending over 200$ on esc for beginner is not very wise, waste of money.

When it comes to servo I would buy power hd b4.

Smc doesn't make shorty lipo anymore. In greywolf test promatch performed very poor. I would get chnl 4900 shorty, good cheap packs. Or reedy shorty. I had very good experience with reedy, also 2 of my friends as well. They will not puff and last very long time
 
@Bogda89 one of my uncle's old racing friends are selling some batteries. I am looking about getting the Maclan 6100 batteries. 2 for 75. I think that is a good price. Any thoughts?
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Paid $59.99 each for the ProTek 4600 LiHV 'shorty' I bought new. Value them at 1/4 price, e.g. $15 when figuring in the cost of using them in a new project. For two, that would be a value of $30.

Generally, when doing used RC-either buying or selling-value it at 1/4 its original cost. And that's for an item in good, serviceable condition. In my experience, it's not what an item is worth, it's what you can sell it or buy it for.

Buying used batteries is tricky at best. Never sold any used, nor have I bought any used. My perspective, anyway. For what it's worth. Good luck. 'AC'
 
@Bogda89 one of my uncle's old racing friends are selling some batteries. I am looking about getting the Maclan 6100 batteries. 2 for 75. I think that is a good price. Any thoughts? View attachment 157080
You have to check is your car using standard shorty or low center of gravity lcg packs.

I didn't have good luck buying used lipos, especially race packs. Me personally I would not pay 30 for a pair
 
Used batts. I bought them from my uncle's friend. He takes care of his batteries.

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Why are you charging at 10A? 1C would be 6.1A.
Yea ik. I usually charge my batteries at 10amps now. My uncle said so. He charged his 4700ma shorty's at 10amps. Racer things. Charge batteries fast for the next race.
 
Yea ik. I usually charge my batteries at 10amps now. My uncle said so. He charged his 4700ma shorty's at 10amps. Racer things. Charge batteries fast for the next race.
I can see that at the track. But charging above 1C is gonna shorten the lifespan of your batteries. Maybe not by much, but I stick to 1C. Never in that big of a hurry to charge my batts.
 
I can see that at the track. But charging above 1C is gonna shorten the lifespan of your batteries. Maybe not by much, but I stick to 1C. Never in that big of a hurry to charge my batts.
Most of the time I plan when I bash so for example if I plan to go out and bash Friday I would charge batteries Thursday night at 1C balance charge. If it is a last minute bash I do fast charge and at 10 amps. (Fast charge and at 10 amps, battery will be full in 10 minutes) Same with going to the track. For racing I will charge up both batteries and make sure I keep them charge in between heats/Qualifiers and mains. When I was first using lipos I would charge at 1C all day. Now I really don't care.
 
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