E revo 2.0 original rear ring and pinion checkup 150 runs later

[Peeeenuuutt]

Awhile back I took a tooth off my rear ring gear when the motor seized at 50mph and locked the wheels then and there. I put that gear up front, and I put the front one in the back, as the front is under less load. I checked that one yesterday and am too lazy to do it again, but so far the second tooth in line hasn’t worn much. So let’s check out the rear now. Cars getting loud. Drivecups are sloppy. Let’s check out my rear diff for wear.
Here’s the tools I’ll be using:

First you need to undo these 4 screws. There’s only 3 for me because I lost one and am too lazy to find a replacement. Also I recommend anyone to do hot glue right there if they want their skid to last:

Here’s the view after:

Now undo these screws and take the 2 rear suspension pins out, along with moving the toe links aside:

Done:

Now remove the 6 screws holding on the bottom half of the diff:
(Heres 3)
Now go back and take off the whole middle skid plate off because you’re dumb and realize you forgot those 8 screws:

Done!

Now remove these 2 suspension pins, pull the a arms away, and pull off the bottom diff case:

Will continue with a reply.

 

[Peeeenuuutt]

Bueno.

Didn’t even see the grub screw was loose. Remove that one and the one on the other drivecup, I’ll see if those bearings are the issue.

Look at that! Great news, after grabbing it with pliers like this, the little stub doesn’t move! So it was that bearing after all, and the spiders are A-ok, or they sound fine at least. The ring gear has no wear, and all those runs were on 6s power!:

Now I’ll take off the other side and it’s bearing:

Also check out the pinion, mint.

Done. I’ll update after I clean them:

Update: cleaned them a little and realized they’re starting to disintegrate... tons of play..

This is just for those who are curious on how much you need to do to take apart a revo 2.0’s rear diff.

 

[olds97_lss]

I have 3 revos. I make steel wear plates for the rear skid as a stock one won't make it through a full set of 7200mah 2S packs or a few tanks of nitro at my skate park. When I launch out of it, the butt drags the face of the ramp like a belt sander and grinds it right off, then the little pins fall out.

I make them out of steel and bevel the leading edge like a knife so it doesn't catch on anything, then counter sink the screws really well. Lasts me over a seasons worth of bashing, sometimes 2 depending on how much I drive.

A little more robust than some glue.

 

[Mongoose]

Nice tutorial!

 

[WTF MIKE]

I have 3 revos. I make steel wear plates for the rear skid as a stock one won't make it through a full set of 7200mah 2S packs or a few tanks of nitro at my skate park. When I launch out of it, the butt drags the face of the ramp like a belt sander and grinds it right off, then the little pins fall out.

I make them out of steel and bevel the leading edge like a knife so it doesn't catch on anything, then counter sink the screws really well. Lasts me over a seasons worth of bashing, sometimes 2 depending on how much I drive.

A little more robust than some glue.

I made these for my kraton and outcast

 

[olds97_lss]

I made these for my kraton and outcast

Yeah, I did similar on my outcast too.

Really need to make one for my stampede... just haven't gotten to it.

 

[Peeeenuuutt]

So far my glue is holding up! It’s weird because originally I thought it’d just rip right off. It wears out after 4-5 skate park rounds so I have to put a new coat on (half a cm thick) I’ll invest into some aluminum rear skid plate sometime.

 

[olds97_lss]

So far my glue is holding up! It’s weird because originally I thought it’d just rip right off. It wears out after 4-5 skate park rounds so I have to put a new coat on (half a cm thick) I’ll invest into some aluminum rear skid plate sometime.

They don't last much longer than stock. Best to make a steel plate to cover stock.

 

[Peeeenuuutt]

I guess aluminum isn't hard enough. I will fabricate a steel one when I feel like it, thanks.