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Dura Lube in a nitro engine?

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I agree they are exagerated - exaggerated badly and misleading. I had an auto shop teacher in HS who ran an engine with the oil pan completely off. The plain bearings in a car engine only need a drop of oil to prevent metal to metal contact between the parts. Have you ever put a drop of oil between two pieces of glass? Engine parts are inherently durable. I used to work in a lawn mower repair shop, and we amused ourselfs on slow days by holding them wide open with no oil and pouring valve grinding compound down the carb. It is amazing what even an old worn out engine can take.

I am a mechanical engineer, and I have been butting heads with advertizers my whole career. They are non technical, and could be hair dressers just as easily! Facts literally mean nothing to them, and that is true of every product out there. I used to work at a laboratory that tested engine coolant for the auto industry. Check the back of a jug of antifreeze and read the list of tests it meets or claims to. Legit companies proudly identify the labs that report good results. It is the snake oil peoble who are evasive about where their stuff is tested, and that is ONLY because there are no good results to report. Do you think an advertiser would let good results go unreported? Hell no.

The fact is most engine wear is caused by fine dirt that gets past the air filter and the oil filter. The best thing you can do is change your oil more often, so it is fine to use cheap oil. Remember when synthetic oil said you could go 50,000 miles before changing the oil? A coworker actually tried it, just changed the filter every 10,000 or so. At 60,000 his engine was wasted, burning oil like crazy.
 
Just a heads up,the slick-50 of 20 years ago is not the slick-50 of today.Moly-sulfide was used then (good) teflon is used now (bad) even the inventor of slick-50 withdrew his support for the product!The original formula of slick-50 is now being sold as Xcelplus,

http://www.xcelplus.com/tests.htm

this link tells of many tests done by "respectable" agencies,this is a link to the one done by the U.S. Army

http://www.xcelplus.com/army.htm

I remain a skeptic of "mechanic in a can" but,I have seen the original fomula slick-50 stop a worn out ford courier with 200,000 miles from smoking,& added 17 m.p.h. to it's top speed.I'm not trying to sell anything,& like I said I remain skeptical,because my pa always said "if it sounds too good to be true......it prolly is."

edit:I forgot to mention they make this product for 2-strokes also,just click on the lawn & garden link
 
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I've had a few experiences with Dura Lube, including a radiator blowout on a Toyota many years ago while on a parkway. It was dark, and I was gonna' get it home. I had gotten many good miles out of it, so I didn't care. It was so hot by the time I got home, that it didn't have the power to go beyond first gear, and it clattered and clanged. I got home. Normally, an engine run that hot would have seized solid. The next day I tried to start it, but it had no compression. Probably warped the valves real bad, but the engine spun freely, like an engine with no spark plugs in it. Just the fact that it didn't lock up was enough to convince me that the Dura Lube had made a major difference. I'll be trying it in the old .12 in the next few days. I don't plan to add it to the fuel, but just drip some through the carb when it's up to temp. That way I think I can control any buildup on the cylinder wall.
 
Not trying to de-rail the thread,but I had a radiator blowout on my old 4x4 dodge last summer,drove it 15 miles back home,it got so hot it died & would not turn over 4 or 5 times! I just let it cool down each time,& started it back up & drove a few more miles until it died again. The next morning after I got it home,I started it up & moved it to a spot where it could stay a few days while I worked on it, wait a minute......IT STARTED? Yep,& has never given me any trouble since,no loss of compression,no smoke! There were no additives in the engine at all only good old synthetic oil Thanks Mobil-1 !! :winnar:
 
A bit of info on the Dura Lube in engines. It only bonds to the metal surfaces, and does NOT continue building up on itself.
 
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