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Does anyone own a Swift?
- Thread starter kurtf5
- Start date
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yeah... i own one...
what exactly is your problem ?? Not quite sure what you mean by "lumpy"
the standard disks are pretty thin but mine seem to work quite well.. i assume you have dissassembled them to see if your pads are still i working working order and that the disks run true.. i.e not warped from heat buildup...
Explain the problem a little better
what exactly is your problem ?? Not quite sure what you mean by "lumpy"
the standard disks are pretty thin but mine seem to work quite well.. i assume you have dissassembled them to see if your pads are still i working working order and that the disks run true.. i.e not warped from heat buildup...
Explain the problem a little better
HUGE amount of info here
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26895&highlight=swift
Please be more descriptive in you thread titles. I edited it to better reflect your needs.
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26895&highlight=swift
Please be more descriptive in you thread titles. I edited it to better reflect your needs.
- Thread starter
- #4
well they have been dissassembled and replaced pads/ discs but you can never get them exact. Like if you tighten them too tight, the wheels dont run freely and when they are loose enough for the wheels to spin, applying brakes doesn't do anything. Also by lumpy, i mean when the brakes are on and you push the car, you can feel different strengths as the drive shaft turns making the brakes feel lumpy even with new pads and discs.
redneckracer1979
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Is your bearings on your center diff good? Also you can adjust the linkages to better suit your braking that is what I did with my swift.
Here's a few ideas that might help:
On the Swift 1 RTR models, the discs thickness can vary across the surface of the disc (some of them look "wedge" shaped when viewed from the side). If this is the case with your car then try replacing them with newer parts from the Swift 2.
The discs are stamped out of sheet material and sometimes burrs are left on the edges. Remove the burrs with a fine file.
The discs are supposed to float on the guide screws but sometimes the discs bind on the threads on the screws. Try using longer screws with a plain shank, cut down to the right size. Click here for details on the modifications I did to my Swifts in this respect.
Finally, the factory servo arm length requires less than 50% travel on most servos to apply full lock to the brakes and therefore makes the brakes very sensitive. Move the extension piece holding the brake rod pivots further towards the centre of the servo arm (you will probably need to shorten the brake side of the servo arm to do this) and use the EPA setting on your radio system to move the fully-locked brake position more towards the end of the brake lever's travel on your TX.
On the Swift 1 RTR models, the discs thickness can vary across the surface of the disc (some of them look "wedge" shaped when viewed from the side). If this is the case with your car then try replacing them with newer parts from the Swift 2.
The discs are stamped out of sheet material and sometimes burrs are left on the edges. Remove the burrs with a fine file.
The discs are supposed to float on the guide screws but sometimes the discs bind on the threads on the screws. Try using longer screws with a plain shank, cut down to the right size. Click here for details on the modifications I did to my Swifts in this respect.
Finally, the factory servo arm length requires less than 50% travel on most servos to apply full lock to the brakes and therefore makes the brakes very sensitive. Move the extension piece holding the brake rod pivots further towards the centre of the servo arm (you will probably need to shorten the brake side of the servo arm to do this) and use the EPA setting on your radio system to move the fully-locked brake position more towards the end of the brake lever's travel on your TX.
