Connectors; Tamiya or Deans?

[RCDad]

personally don't use Deans connectors. I make all my connections hard wired into my electric onroad. It's the most solid connection and least amount of resistance.

You hard wire your batteries?

 

[Diver6127]

yup, sure do. with the connection tabs that are on the batteries. I gardwire the wires directly to the esc connetions and motor. it's a common practice with the onroad racers I race with.

 

[RCDad]

What is 'gardwire'? What's the advantage of this over just using a deans connector?

 

[Diver6127]

Sorry, that's a typo. Hardwire is what I meant. Advantage of this nethod is direct connection so very little current resistance. Also it's a solid connection. No bad connections.

 

[RCDad]

So you solder your batteries strait up to your esc?

 

[Diver6127]

yup. all of us do

 

[Wardo]

Sorry nothing.... I know of a few different sources, including distributors that say differently, and are sold differently being specifically noted as a different product.

Every "sermo" connecter I've seen is an Anderson power pole with the 30 amp 12 gauge wire fitting. If it had the 10 gauge fitting it would be a 45 amp, I've never seen one. They can be purchased directly from Anderson though.

Duratrash and Litespeed sell/sold the same item.

Got any info or a link on a 45 amp "sermo"?

So you solder your batteries strait up to your esc?

Keep in mind he is not running a stick style battery pack. What he is running is a side by side cell layout like this:

llllll

What you are running is a stick pack with the cells assemble like this:
---
---

It is much easier to put two battery tabs on the side by side pack because the ends of the cells are exposed. Your packs most likely have an endcap that makes it impossible to hard wire.

 

[Diver6127]

oh yeah. i don't use stick packs. i use the packs you build yourself. sorry

 

[GilBeQuick]

Every "sermo" connecter I've seen is an Anderson power pole with the 30 amp 12 gauge wire fitting. If it had the 10 gauge fitting it would be a 45 amp, I've never seen one. They can be purchased directly from Anderson though.
Duratrash and Litespeed sell/sold the same item.
Got any info or a link on a 45 amp "sermo"?

The difference between the 30A and 45A is the size of the wire it it is able to accept. The 30A connector has a hole that you slide the wire into and then solder it, where the 45amp version of the connector you have to crimp the connector than solder it. From the outside, both versions look the same.

Here is a pic of the 2 versions side by side:

 

[Wardo]

The difference between the 30A and 45A is the size of the wire it it is able to accept. The 30A connector has a hole that you slide the wire into and then solder it, where the 45amp version of the connector you have to crimp the connector than solder it. From the outside, both versions look the same.

Here is a pic of the 2 versions side by side:

You've just repeated what you quoted.

That site states their sermo connectors are rated for 45 amps and Tower/Great Planes version only for 30.

The pic they show for them has the 30 amp style connector. Ever buy any from them? I'm wondering what the deal is.

 

[gillbot]

on my higher turn motored cars, I direct solder all of my connections as well.

 

[RCDad]

So when you recharge your batteries you have to un-solder them?

Another thing that amazes me is I hear of people racing on like 2000 mah batteries, I guess new ones last much longer. Probably brushless motors also.

 

[Diver6127]

When I race, I carry 3 practice packs and 4 race packs. The race packs are 1/qualifier and the main. I cycle the practice packs only during practice before racing and during the breaks in between heats.

You can leave the battery pack soldered in and just charge. That's an option but I do desolder and resolder my packs when I switch out the packs to be recharged. It doesn't take long at all with the proper soldering iron.

I run the Fusion GP3300 mah battery packs for my 1/12 (4 batteries in saddlepack config). They're prebuilt and come at a premium price since I have the 1.18 packs with the lowest IR I can find ($50+/pack).

My brother bought his and made them for a cheaper price. Same thing, matched packs (Pole position) rated at 1.18. Cost was lower but had to build them. I will be going that route later on as well.

Brushless motors are pretty much not ROAR legal and are not legal at most club races unless there's a class for it. Where I race, they do the open mod races and some of the guys go as low as 9 turns. Amazing drivers and driving. Especially on such a tight and technical track.

 

[RCDad]

Wow, glad I heard that before I shelled out the $200+

So is it common for the cars to last the entire race (which is how long?) on one battery pack or are people running to change them during the race?

 

[Diver6127]

For the 1/12 class, the qualifiers and mains are for 8 minutes. For the touring cars it's 5 minutes. There are no battery changes, that I know of. Haven't heard of any race like that yet.

Usually the race comes down to a battle of the motor efficiency and batteries. Properly charged and cared for batteries will last the whole 5 minutes and not go soft or dump on the driver. Older batteries with more charges and discharges will tend to do go through the charge sooner because of age.

As I said, it all depends on how the batteries are cared for and stored. Motors also ahve to be cared for as well. Coms need to be cut, brushes and spring combos tested and endbells need to be properly shimed for the most efficiency. That's where the dyno's come into play.

 

[RCDad]

Oh wow, thats a fast race, like 3 laps or?

 

[Diver6127]

in the 1/12 class, the fast guys are doing 30+ laps at 8:05-8:11. In the touring class they're hitting 19+ laps at 5:02.

 

[RCDad]

I can't wait for the summer when I can do some practice on a real track.

 

[Diver6127]

just remember, i am doing indoor racing on Ozite carpet. Outdoor racing is a different setup since those are on rubber cap tires, not foams.

 

[RCDad]

The only indoor racing they have at my local tracks is with 1/18 cars.