Connectors; Tamiya or Deans?

[RCDad]

Everything I have except for the maxx uses Deans connectors, however, when looking around at batteries I notice almost everything uses Tamiya connectors.

Which is better?

 

[gillbot]

Deans

The tamiya ones are barely ok for stock motor applications and over time they can loosen and loose connection. I've melted a few with motors of only 21 turns.

 

[RCDad]

Has anyone changed the tamiya connectos on the e-maxx to deans?

 

[Rolex]

I run Deans on everything, including electric planes. I saw a report on connectors, and the Deans connectors are almost zero resistance.
Solid brass, as apposed to the thin hollow tubes in a Tamiya connector.

 

[RCDad]

I wonder if Deans connectors are available at a hardware store.

 

[Plaidfish]

Not usually, But you can get similar stuff from electronics suppliers....but for the pennies you'd save it's better to get the same parts everyone at the track or in the hobby uses....If you need a replacement at the track it's usually easier to get something if your using a standard part.....

 

[GilBeQuick]

According to Deans, the Deans connectors have less resistance than the same size piece of 12ga wire.
I use all Sermos connectors on everything I have. They're 100X better than Tamiyas, but still not as good as Deans. But if you're not good at soldering they're quite a bit easier to install than the Deans are. The good Sermos are about the same price as the Deans are per pair....about $.25 less.

 

[RCDad]

Damn hobby shop is closed today.

 

[Greyryder]

Standard connectors suck. I use the Duratrax Powerpole connectors. I like them because they can be stacked in different configurations. Don't have to worry about plugging the battery in where hte motor goes.

You can probably get Anderson powerpole connectors cheaper, from an electronics or amateur radio supply place. They're the same thing, except for the shape of the dovetails.

EDIT: Just to avoid any confusion.

I just did a search on those Sermos connectors. They're the same thing as the Duratrax.

 

[GilBeQuick]

I just did a search on those Sermos connectors. They're the same thing as the Duratrax.

They look the same, but they're not. The Sermos can handle more amps than the Duratrax can. The Sermos can handle 45A where the Duratrax (the ones you can get on Tower) can only handle 30A.

 

[Wardo]

They look the same, but they're not. The Sermos can handle more amps than the Duratrax can. The Sermos can handle 45A where the Duratrax (the ones you can get on Tower) can only handle 30A.

Sorry, same item. Always have been always will be. They all come from the same supplyer.

 

[jon2]

Deans Connectors for sure. I would get the Bullet style ones.

But make sure you get a nice clean solder job and use heat shrick to cover the bare solder connection.

If you do a poor solder job you will have conductivity issues. The cleaner the better!

Jon

 

[RCDad]

I wish I had a vice, its tough sometimes with a wire in one hand, connector in the other and then if you have to add a little solder....

 

[jon2]

I wish I had a vice, its tough sometimes with a wire in one hand, connector in the other and then if you have to add a little solder....

Get Creative! Prop the motor or whatever against something and prevent it from moving with another object. Best thing to do is Tin the Wire and the point of solder. That will shorten the amount of time you have to heat up the wire.

Hope this helped you out

Jon

 

[Rolex]

Go to a hardware store and get one of those tiny little ones that you can clamp onto the edge of the desk.
There's also the "extra hands", that's 2 alligator clips on adjustable arms, with or without a magnifying glass. I wouldn't be without it. That means you can clip the connector in one Alligator clip, and the wire in the other, and adjust them till both are in the right place. That leaves one hand to hold the iron, and the other to hold the solder.
The additional perk is no more burnt fingertips holding a hot part.

 

[RCDad]

I need something like the 'extra hands' thing. What I did over the weekend was put the connector inside the grip of channel locks which seemed to keep it from rolling away from me. Then the tinning helped alot.

 

[Rolex]

I can't think of what else to call it. That's the way it's referred to in tool catalogues. I've even seen it in stationary stores. It has a thousand uses.
It's also on a very heavy metal base, so there's no problem with it falling over.
I seem to remember paying about 10 or 12 dollars for it about 10 years ago.
You might want to check out MicroMark on line. I get their catalogues. Every tool imaginable for hobbies of any kind. All Quality stuff.

 

[jon2]

I think you can get it at Radio shack, Walmart or even Harbor frieght if you have one.

 

[GilBeQuick]

Sorry, same item. Always have been always will be. They all come from the same supplyer.

Sorry nothing.... I know of a few different sources, including distributors that say differently, and are sold differently being specifically noted as a different product.

 

[Diver6127]

I tin everything, making sure there's enough flux to let the solder flow freely. Also, a good soldering iron will be useful. I have a hakko soldering iron. It has a thrmostat and can stay at 700F all day when I race. I keep it on all day.

Tin the wires and the mounting surface. Place the wire on the surface, make contact with the surface and the wire. THe flux will flow fast and smoothly. If done correctly, it'll be shiny and have a solid connection.

Just make sure that when tinning the wires, it's not just a quick tin. Allow the solder to really penetrate the wires enough to wick it's way into the individual strands, deep enough.

I personally don't use Deans connectors. I make all my connections hard wired into my electric onroad. It's the most solid connection and least amount of resistance.