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Clutch kit for older. 12 nitro engine

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Sweetj

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Hi my name is Jim. I'm glad to be a part of rc talk forum. I'm just getting back into the 1/10 scale nitro scene . I have a vintage trinity reflex nt. I'm wanting to purchase a novarossi /gimar .12 353 engine that I found online. My question is what flywheel, clutch, clutch bell would I need for this engine. It has a sg crankshaft. Thanks for your help.
 
Hi my name is Jim. I'm glad to be a part of rc talk forum. I'm just getting back into the 1/10 scale nitro scene . I have a vintage trinity reflex nt. I'm wanting to purchase a novarossi /gimar .12 353 engine that I found online. My question is what flywheel, clutch, clutch bell would I need for this engine. It has a sg crankshaft. Thanks for your help.
Welcome to RCTalk
 
The SG cranks are race grade, and use more high performance, flywheels, and clutch setups. Many more options involved imo with the SG crank, which in my opinion is farrrr more standard than a “standard” crank.

Not all clutch setups, flywheels, and bells are created equal, and there are many different OD’s, ID’s, bearing arrangements, etc.. With a vintage chassis, such as your Trinity, I’m afraid to say there’s going to be a fair amount of measuring, and homework involved-in order to grab all the correct parts, and have them jive.

Be sure to negotiate with that guy as well. Those engines are overpriced by a LOT imo, as they’re literally built from spare parts out of the old Novarossi “new old stock” purchases when they went out of business some years ago now. I can’t really give any input of the mod quality either-as neither can that seller. I’ve had a few (very) short conversations with them regarding what’s been done to their cranks, sleeves, etc.. Their answers didn’t exactly leave me with that warm fuzzy feeling you’re after when dropping $200-$700 on a nitro engine that hasn’t been produced in years, and you will have a helluva time finding spare rods for. Keep in mind that routine maintenance, bearing swaps, and rod swaps need to be done MUCH more often on a high revving .12 race engine than even a race .21. As in every gallon of fuel depending.. 😳😅
 
Welcome to the site @Sweetj


I ne er played with those parts. @gandalfnz is a clutch guy.
Well, at least I brought in someone who brought in someone who might be able to help 🤣

I don't follow the nitro stuff as much as I should.
 
Hi my name is Jim. I'm glad to be a part of rc talk forum. I'm just getting back into the 1/10 scale nitro scene . I have a vintage trinity reflex nt. I'm wanting to purchase a novarossi /gimar .12 353 engine that I found online. My question is what flywheel, clutch, clutch bell would I need for this engine. It has a sg crankshaft. Thanks for your help.

The big questions will be flywheel thickness & diameter, (6-8mm is typical and often you can fudge it, but if the mismatch is too big it'll place the clutch bell in the wrong spot. With a 1/10th touring car, you can use either a 3-pin or 2-pin flywheel and still be fine.

You'll need a clutch nut, I recommend a tapered one like the kyosho IFW54B. You'll need clutch shoes & springs, especially with an SG shaft I recommend the little torsion-spring ones and not the two semicircles with a spring that wraps around them. They're tricky to put together until you've gotten the hang of it (and even then)

For flywheel, you'll have to see if your car uses mod 0.8 or mod 1.0 tooth gears, and then whether it's 1 or 2 speed and what the teeth counts are. You'll need the distance from the transmission to the engine to line up right, but the mounts give you some adjustability both to be able to pick multiple gears and to set the mesh which is an important step.

Finally, if I may be so bold, I recommend an Sh.12 Engine, if you're actually planning to run it and not just do a vintage show build. I've gotten 39k rpm out of mine in actual use, moving a 1/10th onroad at 53mph. The premium on the nova engine just doesn't justify the imperceptible (if any) increase in performance.
 
Thanks
The SG cranks are race grade, and use more high performance, flywheels, and clutch setups. Many more options involved imo with the SG crank, which in my opinion is farrrr more standard than a “standard” crank.

Not all clutch setups, flywheels, and bells are created equal, and there are many different OD’s, ID’s, bearing arrangements, etc.. With a vintage chassis, such as your Trinity, I’m afraid to say there’s going to be a fair amount of measuring, and homework involved-in order to grab all the correct parts, and have them jive.

Be sure to negotiate with that guy as well. Those engines are overpriced by a LOT imo, as they’re literally built from spare parts out of the old Novarossi “new old stock” purchases when they went out of business some years ago now. I can’t really give any input of the mod quality either-as neither can that seller. I’ve had a few (very) short conversations with them regarding what’s been done to their cranks, sleeves, etc.. Their answers didn’t exactly leave me with that warm fuzzy feeling you’re after when dropping $200-$700 on a nitro engine that hasn’t been produced in years, and you will have a helluva time finding spare rods for. Keep in mind that routine maintenance, bearing swaps, and rod swaps need to be done MUCH more often on a high revving .12 race engine than even a race .21. As in every gallon of fuel depending.. 😳😅
Thanks Little Motor. I've been thinking the same thing about the nova engine. I'll probably have a real hard time finding parts for it. The guy had a decent price on it at $239. It is supposed to be hand modified crank and sleeve but who knows for sure I believe ill look at other options for a. 12. Thanks alot for all your help
 
S
Thanks

Thanks Little Motor. I've been thinking the same thing about the nova engine. I'll probably have a real hard time finding parts for it. The guy had a decent price on it at $239. It is supposed to be hand modified crank and sleeve but who knows for sure I believe ill look at other options for a. 12. Thanks alot for all your help
SH has one. I haven't used this engine brand to be fair.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/sh-eng...nCAMqgba7o98eSs7Jp_YCZ529458CyzBoC_ysQAvD_BwE
 
The big questions will be flywheel thickness & diameter, (6-8mm is typical and often you can fudge it, but if the mismatch is too big it'll place the clutch bell in the wrong spot. With a 1/10th touring car, you can use either a 3-pin or 2-pin flywheel and still be fine.

You'll need a clutch nut, I recommend a tapered one like the kyosho IFW54B. You'll need clutch shoes & springs, especially with an SG shaft I recommend the little torsion-spring ones and not the two semicircles with a spring that wraps around them. They're tricky to put together until you've gotten the hang of it (and even then)

For flywheel, you'll have to see if your car uses mod 0.8 or mod 1.0 tooth gears, and then whether it's 1 or 2 speed and what the teeth counts are. You'll need the distance from the transmission to the engine to line up right, but the mounts give you some adjustability both to be able to pick multiple gears and to set the mesh which is an important step.

Finally, if I may be so bold, I recommend an Sh.12 Engine, if you're actually planning to run it and not just do a vintage show build. I've gotten 39k rpm out of mine in actual use, moving a 1/10th onroad at 53mph. The premium on the nova engine just doesn't justify the imperceptible (if any) increase in performance.
Thanks Tuderdwolf, I actually looked at the sh.12 pro at amain hobbys they have it at a good price. Can I ask what flywheel and clutch your using on it. I have an old trinity engine still runs but don't know how much longer. So I'm looking to upgrade to a newer engine. I appreciate all your help.
 
Thanks

Thanks Little Motor. I've been thinking the same thing about the nova engine. I'll probably have a real hard time finding parts for it. The guy had a decent price on it at $239. It is supposed to be hand modified crank and sleeve but who knows for sure I believe ill look at other options for a. 12. Thanks alot for all your help
Absolutely fella. No problem at all. I had a gander at your chassis, and see it’s a 2spd legit TC.. It may very well require a “standard” crank-I don’t have enough experience with that car to tell you for sure. I know the current stuff uses the much more common SG style (which yours may very well be also-idk), and there are a number of decent race .12’s available that you CAN get parts for, but you’re gonna pay for them for sure. 😅
 
Thanks Tuderdwolf, I actually looked at the sh.12 pro at amain hobbys they have it at a good price. Can I ask what flywheel and clutch your using on it. I have an old trinity engine still runs but don't know how much longer. So I'm looking to upgrade to a newer engine. I appreciate all your help.

Surprisingly enough, the completely stock HSP 3-pin "1/8" flywheel & clutch set fits great on it, and costs less than most OEM flywheels by themselves - eBay link.
 
Thanks for the link.i have a two speed transmission on my chassis. Hoping this motor will work on it.
Surprisingly enough, the completely stock HSP 3-pin "1/8" flywheel & clutch set fits great on it, and costs less than most OEM flywheels by themselves - eBay link.
 
Thanks for the link.i have a two speed transmission on my chassis. Hoping this motor will work on it.
You'll need the know the tooth counts of each gear, and whatever the difference is, it has to be the opposite on your clutch bell. Ie, 41/46 goes with a 16/21 clutch bell. Other gaps are out there, including fully buildable ones with gears that thread onto a clutch bell. You'll also need to know the pitch, likely mod 1, but possibly mod 0.8, which refers to the size of the gear teeth.
 
Thanks alot for all your help. I think I will go ahead and purchase the sh motor with the clutch kit that you recommended. Again I appreciate all the advice.
You'll need the know the tooth counts of each gear, and whatever the difference is, it has to be the opposite on your clutch bell. Ie, 41/46 goes with a 16/21 clutch bell. Other gaps are out there, including fully buildable ones with gears that thread onto a clutch bell. You'll also need to know the pitch, likely mod 1, but possibly mod 0.8, which refers to the size of the gear teeth.
 
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