clutch killing

[Plaidfish]

I'm burning clutch shoes up about every 3-4 tanks......every thing is solid (no play in endbell) new bearings and using an O.S. RG.......95 and 1.0 springs both seem to kill the shoes.....gimme guidance o great forum of knowledge!

 

[olds97_lss]

What kind of clutch are you running? Stock 1/10 style or 1/8 style?

If your not running a 1/8 style, you should. I did for the last gallon or so on my maxx and I had no idea how much power I was losing in the clutch.

RC-Solutions sells a steel 1/8 spur. You need to get a 1/8 cb/flywheel and shoes. I suggest an OFNA hardened bell.

 

[Plaidfish]

I got all kyosho & K-factory 1/8 scale set-up....
spent the dough
for the right stuff to go
but for me right now
it does BLOW.......
is that haiku?

by the way Olds how do I give you feedback on the sale....

 

[olds97_lss]

Click on my name in my post. Click "View Public Profile". In there, you'll see a little trader rating number. Click on the number and you should be able to figure the rest out.

I used HPI shoes with HPI's 3 shoe flywheel and RC-Solutions spur with an OFNA cb. Lasted well over a gallon, then I parted out the maxx, but the shoes were still like new as was the spur and cb.

 

[kwong2001]

Did you check to make sure your brake wasn't partially engaged at or near idle? If you have the car set with the clutch and brake engaged at idle, then it'll burn the clutch up pretty quick.

 

[Plaidfish]

How long should you get out of a set of shoes....I had a 1/10 scale maxx for a while and I used 2 sets of mip shoes even with my p2 in it.....
I just started w/ the 1/8 scale stuff and while it's WAY more top end it seems like I'm not much more on the bottom, and the stuff doesn't last as long....I know I have a big learning curve ahead with new equipment but is this normal??? I'm real meticulous with my stuff and I just don't see any consistency with the wear and tear on 1/8 scale toys....should I just expect to be spending more time on a bench than on the track?

I'll do the trade rating thing now too

Did you check to make sure your brake wasn't partially engaged at or near idle? If you have the car set with the clutch and brake engaged at idle, then it'll burn the clutch up pretty quick.

I'm going through and checking that too, it doesn't seem to be the case...I did notice my gear mesh was a little tight....not too much but enough to notice....I think my mounts may have loosened up ( i had to mod the holes a little and they are slightly crooked ) could that cause the clutch to get wasted....tight mesh that is..

 

[CorradoPsi]

did you clean out your clutch after you put new bearings in it. with new bearings you have to run the car for about 5-7 minutes then tear down the clutch. it needs cleaned out. the excess grease in the bearings gets flung into the bell and causes it to slip excessively. if this happens you can overheat the clutch very quickly and wear out the shoes and bearings very fast. clutch temps above 700* arent uncommon when this happens.

 

[vbgagnon]

I ran the whole summer on 2 sets of shoes. Thats total of about 7 gallons or so. The shoes are pretty much dead now, but would still do the trick if need be.

 

[Plaidfish]

did you clean out your clutch after you put new bearings in it. with new bearings you have to run the car for about 5-7 minutes then tear down the clutch. it needs cleaned out. the excess grease in the bearings gets flung into the bell and causes it to slip excessively. if this happens you can overheat the clutch very quickly and wear out the shoes and bearings very fast. clutch temps above 700* arent uncommon when this happens.

yeah I did that after the first set of shoes went....the whole engine / clutch / endbell assembly was all new3 weeks ago....I've run almost 3 gallons through it and it wasn't until I changed the clutch springs last week that I started eating shoes....I've tried .9 , .95 , 1.0 & 1.1 springs now and I'm getting the same results...(anyone got a trick for mounting the 1.1 springs? What a bitch) I have to have something screwed up with how I'm mounting them.....I'm using a spacer on the outside of the endbell cause I can't fit an E-clip on the shaft and it leaves a lot of slop if I don't put one there...I also have a diff shim between the inside bearing and the flywheel nut so the endbell doesn't ride on the flywheel....there's like a paper thickness between them now and the flywheel is tight on the shaft nothing is binding, I can spin the endbell freely with my finger and it keps spinning for at least 10 seconds.there are no signs of wear on either of these spacers and the bearings are still smooth as buttah, the clutch shoes don't get pinched in the space (between the F/W & E/B). I've scuffed the inside of the E/B w/ steel wool. I just reconnected the brakes and dialed them in and I'm goin to try my 4th set of shoes tonite after work....am I missing something in this setup?....I was told the spacer on the inside could be binding the bearing but I know what that would do to it if it were....the spacer looks perfect, it's just big enough for the outer racing to rest on and it's one of those high heat low friction types (more like a real thin bushing)....Does anyone else need to shim their endbells like this?

 

[olds97_lss]

I think everyone needs to somewhat. I know I do.

Are the shoes binding on the pins they mount too? Try putting them on the pins without the springs and make sure they move easily.

Maybe your idle is to high and they are dragging.

Do you have a part # for your shoes? Maybe it has something to do with the brand/material of the shoe.

 

[Plaidfish]

Good suggestion, I don't think the idle is too high though...I use the 5 second method....if I run the thing all out and then let it sit the idle should kick down in 5 seconds or less.....is that a reasonable test? it always seems to work for me w/ the T-maxx engines....Now I wish I had kept it....I think I'll make a .21 sportmaxx from the parts I got from you....the shoes don't seem to stick if I turn the flywheel they fall away a little bit but not all the way, I just chalked it up to them being new and needed a little wearing in....BTY what is the bump thng I see here al the time? I don't like Bumps I like jumps
Jumpity Jump JUMP JUMP over the bumps....Work makes me loopy

I believe the shoes are Kyosho or Mugen......I'm about ready to try one of those fioroni sliding clutches, anyone have any feedback on those?

 

[CorradoPsi]

ok but did you take it apart to clean the extra grease out of the new clutch within the first tank of fuel? i dont really know what to tell, ya. organic shoes havent really lasted well for me either. i like aluminum shoes.

where you run your car, do you have a lot of traction? you could be causing your shoes to slip under load. this is what happened with mine.

 

[Plaidfish]

AHHHHHH
that may be the key. I run in a field near my house mostly and I seem to have issues when I go play at the track and keep the mashers on the truck, I was liking the drift sort of driving was doing while the track was empty and I wasn't gonna smash anyone. I probly need to change the gear ratio or something. and yes I do clean out the EB every time I change shoes (just a habit) I wasn't aware of the bearing grease issue you mentioned b4 but it was a non issue as I was dis / re assembling the thing every tank almost....I'm trying the fioroni clutch tonite and NOW I'm gonna change gear ratio as well....I'm running a 14t / 44t spur w/ the RG right now. It's great on the close jumps I have set up but sucks on the track..... maybe a higher ratio like a 13t / 52t..uh oh gotta clean my desk before the day is done so I can go and have my fun while I still have the sun....
thanks again Corrado for the wealth of knowledge you spew!!!

 

[olds97_lss]

I think the bumps of which you speak are when someone wants to make their thread seen in the new thread search as being current. Like the "ttt" posts (to to top).

 

[Plaidfish]

AHHHH
grasshoppah hear U
thanks

 

[Plaidfish]

Wasn't gear ratio or none that crap......Anyone here a 3PM expert??? I need someone who can explain what setting I might have cleared out when I reset my controller that stopped the problem. LHS said try it and it worked.....I Dunno I just do what they say and it workdeded.......

 

[olds97_lss]

Yeah... that makes sense...

Maybe it was exponential or something. Gave you a soft throttle regardless how fast you hit the trigger.

Does it drive any different?

 

[CorradoPsi]

i use a 3PM. i like it a lot. I've never set any of the throttle controls though, i had no need for them. you may have had your throttle set to take up lag in the linkage. its a feature used for gas cars. you can set the radio so that just touching the throttle, makes the servo move a predetermined amount. like just tapping the gas can actually equal half throttle. using Expo can alter the feel of the throttle curve by making the bottom end stronger and tameing down the top end, or the opposite, tameing down the bottom end and making the top end stronger. the expo is also independantly adjustable for the throttle and brakes.

 

[Plaidfish]

I've been trying to read the manual on this stuff and it's really a poorly written piece of lit. I'm actually trying to figure out if there is a way I could have accidentally changed these settings with the adj buttons on the face of the controller. I know I've held the thing while starting my truck on the box and changed something....I never tried changing the Exponential settings yet (I'd like to get a better understanding of how they affect the output)....and HELL YEAH it drives like it used to again....I just traded the sirio for 2 RGs (1 new) and a VZ-B? (not finished w/ break-in)...my friend wanted that thing really bad and it was just stupid in that truck....Now I have mills for the next year, YEAAAAY ME!!!! WHO HOO less money I need to spend.....

or I can trade the used RG for a new TT Pro....What do you guys think?

 

[Plaidfish]

Corrado you hit it an the head with gear ratio issues........