I have a S1200 G2 AC 1x200W Smart Charger and am trying to find out how many watts it draws when charging. I am wondering if I can plug it into my vehicles power inverter outlet that is good for 150 watts. Am new to electric models so need to find a way to charge batteries in the field as there is no power there. I guess I can always take my Honda generator for a power source.
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Charging Batteries in the Field
- Thread starter FLSteve
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tntpoof
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its a 200 watt charger so at its full charging power it will blow your fuse .its 50 + watts exceeding your limit . you can charge at half its charging power in amps you will be safe
tudordewolf
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It probably draws about 10% more watts than you're putting into the battery.
150W is still enough to charge a 3s battery at 10A, that's a lot of juice.
I have this little S1200 DC charger that I made a lead for that has alligator clips on one end and an IC3 on the other. I just clip it to the battery in the daily Jeep and it can charge up to a 6S. I haven’t used it in a while but I think it maxes out at 6a. Only does one pack at a time. Works well when there isn’t another option. My other Jeep has a 2000w inverter in it so I just use my S2100 in there.
One day I’d like to get one of the iChargers with power supply and a discharging attachment but that’s a pretty big investment.
Edit: from looking at the picture it maxes out at 8a. Haha.
One day I’d like to get one of the iChargers with power supply and a discharging attachment but that’s a pretty big investment.
Edit: from looking at the picture it maxes out at 8a. Haha.
You can use Watts law to figure out how much current you can use
Watts = Volts * Amps
Let's say you have a 2S Lipo where a full charge = 8.4V
150W = 8.4V * (X)Amps
150/8.4 = 17.6A
Industry standard is to reduce this by 15% to account for charger inefficiency.
17.6A - 15% = 15.2A
I would set the charger to no more than 15A to charge a 2S pack without risk of blowing a fuse.
Watts = Volts * Amps
Let's say you have a 2S Lipo where a full charge = 8.4V
150W = 8.4V * (X)Amps
150/8.4 = 17.6A
Industry standard is to reduce this by 15% to account for charger inefficiency.
17.6A - 15% = 15.2A
I would set the charger to no more than 15A to charge a 2S pack without risk of blowing a fuse.
tntpoof
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Keep in mind that your '150W' inverter in your vehicle is likely closer to 75W. They lie.
And not to be argumentative, but his reference to watts law is correct. Ohms law (V/I*R) is in reference to the mathematical relationship shared by current, resistance, and voltage.
Watts law defines the relationship of watts to voltage and current.
And not to be argumentative, but his reference to watts law is correct. Ohms law (V/I*R) is in reference to the mathematical relationship shared by current, resistance, and voltage.
Watts law defines the relationship of watts to voltage and current.
Last edited:
some unknowns to be clarified by the OP
1) How many cells are you charging?
2) What are the stated specs from the inverter? Is it 150W continuous or 150W Peak?
https://www.powerinverter.cc/blogs/news/inverter-peak-power-vs-rated-power
1) How many cells are you charging?
2) What are the stated specs from the inverter? Is it 150W continuous or 150W Peak?
https://www.powerinverter.cc/blogs/news/inverter-peak-power-vs-rated-power
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Would it be much more efficient to connect the charger directly to the battery bypassing the inverter? If the charger is capable of DC input.
Seems highly inefficient to go from 12 to 120 and back down to 4 or 8 volts.
Seems highly inefficient to go from 12 to 120 and back down to 4 or 8 volts.
When I used to do parking lot racing, the majority of racers would use a deep cycle battery to charge their batteries.
I used an inverter hooked up to my setup so I could also run a box fan in the summer months.
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If you use the "cigarette lighter" it's should be limited to 120W, which is 10A @12V. Like someone else mentioned there is loss in any inverter, so it's more like 100-110W AC to your charger.
I've got a 4runner with a 300W inverter built in. It's 300W max under all circumstances. What most people don't realize is that there is start up current and that is higher. If you pull 10A normally, it could be 11-12A on start up. Also there is parasitic loss in the cable, connectors, systems, etc... Just make sure you leave some margin at least 10-15%.
Unless you have very low current you have two options.
1. What he said. A lot of chargers have a 12V input. Just run that straight to the car battery. This is the simplest and cheapest option that I can think of.
2. A solar generator (Ecoflow, Jackery, Bluetti, Ankar, etc). The run about $1/watt hr and you can use it camping or around the house too. But, again make sure the wattage (peak and sustained) will work for your charger.
I have an EcoFlow that took a dump and need to see if I can send it in for warranty, so I can't recommend it at this time. Never used it myself, but I do have buddy that is in love with Bluetti.
It's very cool technology and more useful than one would think.
I've got a 4runner with a 300W inverter built in. It's 300W max under all circumstances. What most people don't realize is that there is start up current and that is higher. If you pull 10A normally, it could be 11-12A on start up. Also there is parasitic loss in the cable, connectors, systems, etc... Just make sure you leave some margin at least 10-15%.
Unless you have very low current you have two options.
1. What he said. A lot of chargers have a 12V input. Just run that straight to the car battery. This is the simplest and cheapest option that I can think of.
2. A solar generator (Ecoflow, Jackery, Bluetti, Ankar, etc). The run about $1/watt hr and you can use it camping or around the house too. But, again make sure the wattage (peak and sustained) will work for your charger.
I have an EcoFlow that took a dump and need to see if I can send it in for warranty, so I can't recommend it at this time. Never used it myself, but I do have buddy that is in love with Bluetti.
It's very cool technology and more useful than one would think.
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