Castle BEC- How hot is too hot?

[2015GTRBE]

Gonna be honest I’ve never shunned any RC for all 13 years. Given all I’ve owned is Traxxas until I got my senton (aside from hpi but they also didn’t need shimming) and they tend to keep the tolerances extremely tight. I’m still not doing it on my senton, too lazy, but I’m probably gonna do it now because the diffs are a little worse for wear.

A few notes....

1. Traxxas chassis is a nylon composite. Strong but not stiff enough to handle well compared to metal chassis.

2. The straps / limiters for the suspension is a serious design flaw that isn’t like “oh it just needs straps and super glue”. It should be s recall.

3. Shimming diffs is just as important as meshing your pinion to spur, it is making sure there is no play in the mesh. If you did not buy a hobby-grade truck because you had to shim a diff then maybe this hobby is not really for you, or... you should consider educating and furthering your experience in the hobby.

4. You never ever ever have to apologize or feel the need to explain what RC you like. Period, end of story. We all have our tastes and real enthusiasts aren’t brainless fans of just one brand.

5. You seem upset or short of patience in this thread because people gave you answers that weren’t to your liking, and or above your hobby IQ. Do not go to a forum and expect perfect strangers from up to 8000 miles away to submit to your preference of answers, the next time you need help you will receive crickets and a bag of dicks. Don’t be frustrated, it’s hard to communicate through text so understand that questions may have to be said a few times for us all to understand. None of us are pros here, we can all learn and be patient and I’ve been at this hobby for 29 years.

6. Ask a crawler guy about BECs, they know that stuff back to front. I haven’t suffered your issue, but I use Hobbywing UBECs only.

Hope you get your issue solved ?

 

[Peeeenuuutt]

A few notes....

1. Traxxas chassis is a nylon composite. Strong but not stiff enough to handle well compared to metal chassis.

2. The straps / limiters for the suspension is a serious design flaw that isn’t like “oh it just needs straps and super glue”. It should be s recall.

3. Shimming diffs is just as important as meshing your pinion to spur, it is making sure there is no play in the mesh. If you did not buy a hobby-grade truck because you had to shim a diff then maybe this hobby is not really for you, or... you should consider educating and furthering your experience in the hobby.

4. You never ever ever have to apologize or feel the need to explain what RC you like. Period, end of story. We all have our tastes and real enthusiasts aren’t brainless fans of just one brand.

5. You seem upset or short of patience in this thread because people gave you answers that weren’t to your liking, and or above your hobby IQ. Do not go to a forum and expect perfect strangers from up to 8000 miles away to submit to your preference of answers, the next time you need help you will receive crickets and a bag of peepee's. Don’t be frustrated, it’s hard to communicate through text so understand that questions may have to be said a few times for us all to understand. None of us are pros here, we can all learn and be patient and I’ve been at this hobby for 29 years.

6. Ask a crawler guy about BECs, they know that stuff back to front. I haven’t suffered your issue, but I use Hobbywing UBECs only.

Hope you get your issue solved ?

I think there was a misunderstanding between communication. Also I like your tactic of talking sophisticated for your first sentence to ensure people take your side.

1. My issue was resolved. It was resolved a long time ago.

2 . And regarding the chassis, I'm very much aware about the handling thing. Never said they handled better. Actually here's a quote from another thread:

The plastic chassis is a lot better for someone like me for big air and stuff so I'll definitely consider it. Big selling point to me, as the drawback to every aluminum chassis truck I've had is the bend. Nobody's fault, the design of a metal flat plane makes them handle a lot better, but that's just not what I'm looking for.

3. As for you getting angry at me for all that other stuff, there is clearly a miscommunication. I'm very brand neutral and actually explain thoroughly why I like the rc's that I like. You should do some scouting before you try and attack someone like me for being brand bias. Everything I said about my RC is a fact, all information I give about other rc's is a fact. I never say "plastic, yup better because I like it more." I never said that for anything. Me saying "you know what the e revo I said my favorite rc, here's some reasons why" is my opinion and I support with, you guessed it, facts. I don't make any bias replies at all. Not a single one. Go fetch me a quote of myself doing anything you've said. Yes I'm expecting him to pull something out of context, he clearly just hates me as a person lol.

4. As for the limiting straps, I am also very much aware that it should be a recall. But it's not. So that's the fix. And that's what I said. What is wrong with you? As for the superglue, that's what I use instead of loctite. So you're telling me that screws coming loose and falling out is a design flaw. Okay buddy. The limiting straps, yes, they're a design flaw (to a degree, because under any mild sized ~10 feet jumps don't have any issues, it only shows it's ugly face after you start really sending it up there). You send your kraton 30 feet in the air. You land on concrete with a smash. Your plastic chassis brace broke. Do you cry that it's a flaw or do you replace it with an aluminum one like a normal person! These little things are just full of design flaws, they're all flawed! In this case, I really don't care, because a little bit of pocket change later it's fixed.

5. As for "hobby iq" I don't feel comfortable shimming diffs. I haven't in any of the trucks I've owned and I don't break diffs. I don't get why you're getting mad at me for picking and choosing. Shimming diffs isn't even close to the same caliper of meshing your pinion. I don't shim my diffs and I have just as much lifetime as anyone else. Reason being? I don't buy trucks that need their diffs to be shimmed. If you're not bothered by it, then that's all good. Me? I am, so I decide against. I just buy trucks that don't need it. There is nothing wrong with trucks that need diff shims. Did I say anything was wrong with a truck needing diff shims?

6. I don't recall ever talking bad to anyone who has said anything on my threads, except if it's some sort of debate, but in that case it's nothing serious. Your whole reply was a complete joke except for the last 2 sentences, this thread is literally an example of me explaining why I like the trucks that I like.

7. I have never ever told anyone to buy an e revo 2.0 on this forum. Not even ONCE. Find a quote of me saying so. Not saying that you said that, but clearly this shows i have opinions of my own, and they don't affect what advice I give anyone else. Ever.

Edit: my apologies to any reader for ripping his response apart piece by piece, but I take it personally when someone comes after me like that. I'm here to help people, I use my experience of all brands to help people, compare and contrast, etc. I fully understand those who may get angry at me not only saying good stuff about arrma's, but that's just how I am. But people like this, are just plain annoying. Like imagine if I didn't reply? People would've actually thought his points were valid if this was the first post they've viewed of me. For some reason people think I'm Traxxas bias. I don't know why this is. I have never recommended anyone buy a Traxxas vehicle that has an arrma competetor. It seems that because I say that name, people think I swear by it. Because of this, people who are arrma fanboys (which I don't blame I mean they have a great company) hold a grudge against me and try to take anyone's side except mine on any topic, except when it's non debatable, then they just disregard it.

Guess what, I don't.

8. There's countless replies showing me talking about how much fun I had with my HPI's, and there's countless of me telling about how my senton doesn't break. open your eyes before you attack someone.


Edit 2: oops. ?

 

[2015GTRBE]

I think there was a misunderstanding between communication. Also I like your tactic of talking sophisticated for your first sentence to ensure people take your side.

1. My issue was resolved. It was resolved a long time ago.

2 . And regarding the chassis, I'm very much aware about the handling thing. Never said they handled better. Actually here's a quote from another thread:




3. As for you getting angry at me for all that other stuff, there is clearly a miscommunication. I'm very brand neutral and actually explain thoroughly why I like the rc's that I like. You should do some scouting before you try and attack someone like me for being brand bias. Everything I said about my RC is a fact, all information I give about other rc's is a fact. I never say "plastic, yup better because I like it more." I never said that for anything. Me saying "you know what the e revo I said my favorite rc, here's some reasons why" is my opinion and I support with, you guessed it, facts. I don't make any bias replies at all. Not a single one. Go fetch me a quote of myself doing anything you've said. Yes I'm expecting him to pull something out of context, he clearly just hates me as a person lol.

4. As for the limiting straps, I am also very much aware that it should be a recall. But it's not. So that's the fix. And that's what I said. What is wrong with you? As for the superglue, that's what I use instead of loctite. So you're telling me that screws coming loose and falling out is a design flaw. Okay buddy. The limiting straps, yes, they're a design flaw (to a degree, because under any mild sized ~10 feet jumps don't have any issues, it only shows it's ugly face after you start really sending it up there). You send your kraton 30 feet in the air. You land on concrete with a smash. Your plastic chassis brace broke. Do you cry that it's a flaw or do you replace it with an aluminum one like a normal person! These little things are just full of design flaws, they're all flawed! In this case, I really don't care, because a little bit of pocket change later it's fixed.

5. As for "hobby iq" I don't feel comfortable shimming diffs. I haven't in any of the trucks I've owned and I don't break diffs. I don't get why you're getting mad at me for picking and choosing. Shimming diffs isn't even close to the same caliper of meshing your pinion. I don't shim my diffs and I have just as much lifetime as anyone else. Reason being? I don't buy trucks that need their diffs to be shimmed. If you're not bothered by it, then that's all good. Me? I am, so I decide against. I just buy trucks that don't need it. There is nothing wrong with trucks that need diff shims. Did I say anything was wrong with a truck needing diff shims?

6. I don't recall ever talking bad to anyone who has said anything on my threads, except if it's some sort of debate, but in that case it's nothing serious. Your whole reply was a complete joke except for the last 2 sentences, this thread is literally an example of me explaining why I like the trucks that I like.

7. I have never ever told anyone to buy an e revo 2.0 on this forum. Not even ONCE. Find a quote of me saying so. Not saying that you said that, but clearly this shows i have opinions of my own, and they don't affect what advice I give anyone else. Ever.

Edit: my apologies to any reader for ripping his response apart piece by piece, but I take it personally when someone comes after me like that. I'm here to help people, I use my experience of all brands to help people, compare and contrast, etc. I fully understand those who may get angry at me not only saying good stuff about arrma's, but that's just how I am. But people like this, are just plain annoying. Like imagine if I didn't reply? People would've actually thought his points were valid if this was the first post they've viewed of me. For some reason people think I'm Traxxas bias. I don't know why this is. I have never recommended anyone buy a Traxxas vehicle that has an arrma competetor. It seems that because I say that name, people think I swear by it.

Guess what, I don't.

8. There's countless replies showing me talking about how much fun I had with my HPI's, and there's countless of me telling about how my senton doesn't break. open your eyes before you attack someone.


Edit 2: oops. ?

Whoa.....

That wasn’t an attack in the slightest. Maybe the diff shimming point was a bit sharp, but to be honest I come from the school of building your car, not RTR and not knowing how to fix a problem, or worse, not even wanting to know how to fix a problem. That is not your fault, that is the fault of the RTR epidemic.

Do you realize that I defended you in my post? Did I say that you said this or that is better or worse? Chill bro, as a great forum administrator once told me.... “it’s only toy cars”

 

[Peeeenuuutt]

Whoa.....

That wasn’t an attack in the slightest. Maybe the diff shimming point was a bit sharp, but to be honest I come from the school of building your car, not RTR and not knowing how to fix a problem, or worse, not even wanting to know how to fix a problem. That is not your fault, that is the fault of the RTR epidemic.

Do you realize that I defended you in my post? Did I say that you said this or that is better or worse? Chill bro, as a great forum administrator once told me.... “it’s only toy cars”

I didn't see any defending me in that post. If it's only toy cars than what the hell is the point of your reply??!! I took out all the parts that weren't attacks. Here's what I'm left with. Hint hint it's still a lot. The number 4 calling me brand bias was the one that really hit it home and made me reply how I did, because if I can say one thing on this forums it's definitely that I'm completely unbias, but you're calling me a brainless fan of one brand.

A few notes....

2. The straps / limiters for the suspension is a serious design flaw that isn’t like “oh it just needs straps and super glue”. It should be a recall.

3. If you did not buy a hobby-grade truck because you had to shim a diff then maybe this hobby is not really for you, or... you should consider educating and furthering your experience in the hobby.

4. You never ever ever have to apologize or feel the need to explain what RC you like. Period, end of story. We all have our tastes and real enthusiasts aren’t brainless fans of just one brand.

5. You seem upset or short of patience in this thread because people gave you answers that weren’t to your liking, and or above your hobby IQ. Do not go to a forum and expect perfect strangers from up to 8000 miles away to submit to your preference of answers, the next time you need help you will receive crickets and a bag of peepee's. Don’t be frustrated, it’s hard to communicate through text so understand that questions may have to be said a few times for us all to understand. None of us are pros here, we can all learn and be patient and I’ve been at this hobby for 29 years.

 

[2015GTRBE]

I didn't see any defending me in that post. If it's only toy cars than what the hell is the point of your reply??!!

Ok dude you are wayyyyyyy too extra. I tried... enjoy the forum ?

 

[bicketybam]

#butthurt

 

[Peeeenuuutt]

Smh, now this thread is tainted.

And @bicketybam you should probably read that bolded section of the first edit because you're one of those who is under that impression.

If you built your reputation on being unbiased, you'd see why I replied how I did. No it's not a bad thing to be bias, I'm just saying. I don't say "#butthurt" when you or someone else gets butthurt about stuff but I can't do anything about anyone else's actions.

 

[bicketybam]

Smh, now this thread is tainted.

And @bicketybam you should probably read that bolded section of the first edit because you're one of those who is under that impression.

If you built your reputation on being unbiased, you'd see why I replied how I did. No it's not a bad thing to be bias, I'm just saying. I don't say "#butthurt" when you or someone else gets butthurt about stuff but I can't do anything about anyone else's actions.

Smh, now this thread is tainted.

And @bicketybam you should probably read that bolded section of the first edit because you're one of those who is under that impression.

If you built your reputation on being unbiased, you'd see why I replied how I did. No it's not a bad thing to be bias, I'm just saying. I don't say "#butthurt" when you or someone else gets butthurt about stuff but I can't do anything about anyone else's actions.

#salty

 

[2015GTRBE]

#salty

You can’t fight crazy with logic

 

[olds97_lss]

Gonna be honest I’ve never shunned any RC for all 13 years. Given all I’ve owned is Traxxas until I got my senton (aside from hpi but they also didn’t need shimming) and they tend to keep the tolerances extremely tight. I’m still not doing it on my senton, too lazy, but I’m probably gonna do it now because the diffs are a little worse for wear.

Guessing that should say "shimmed" vs "shunned".

Have you ever had a savage, nitro or otherwise?

On my traxxas trucks, with stock parts, I never shimmed the diffs either. I just used whatever the manual/parts explosion said to use and if it was made after the first revo 2.5R, they seemed to hold up ok. Now my old t-maxx 2.5... that's another story. That thing would pee it's pants and spit out diff teeth if it saw a bump in the road. God forbid you try to go big block...

I have 2 nitro revos, one with an OS21TM and one with an LRP28S3 and an ERBEv1. All have original diffs. The nitros have many gallons through them and the ERBEv1 has almost 2 years of abuse on it. By original, I mean the gears. I replace the cups when they get sloppy and bearings when they get worn. Ridiculous how well they hold up considering my t-maxx 2.5 days. I do only run 4S in my ERBEv1, so that may explain my lack of issues with those.

As for my many savage's over the years, until the BP diffs came out... they were always tough to keep a diff alive in as well. Didn't help they used a weird bearing on the cup side which was smaller than the standard 8x16 and would fail early, which would take the ring/pinion with it. Before BP, the only way I kept a diff alive was getting alloy diff cases and shimming them within a hair of tight. Then replacing the bearings every gallon or so. Which, if you ever owned a pre-X savage... you know how much fun that is.

Now with my nitro X and Flux HP, I have BP diffs, alloy cups, whatever shims came in them, and they seem to hold up ok. Well, the flux will chomp a pinion once in a while, but after installing a center diff, that seems to be eliminated.

The only other truck I had that seemed to have diffs that lasted inexplicably forever was my losi aftershock. About 6 months after buying it new, Losi came out with the HD diff cups (or I became aware of them), which had steel inserts like the arrma cups. I put those in. I ran that thing for 3 hard hard years and never had a diff fail. I can't even remember changing a bearing in them... but I probably did. I had 2 spare diffs all oiled/greased/built in a parts box because of my previous savage/t-maxx diff woes. Never used them. Sold them with the truck because I got tired of the 2-speed issues.

Anyway, all that just to say that instead of tempting fate, I shimmed my outcast diffs as suggested by many. Adding shims on the ring gear for good pinion/ring mesh and using the mugen shims on all gears inside the diffs. I did that very early on. I've since chooched one diff I think since July when I bought it, but I'm 99% sure it's due to my diff cap/case screws being stripped and not holding the diff tight.

 

[Peeeenuuutt]

Guessing that should say "shimmed" vs "shunned".

Have you ever had a savage, nitro or otherwise?

On my traxxas trucks, with stock parts, I never shimmed the diffs either. I just used whatever the manual/parts explosion said to use and if it was made after the first revo 2.5R, they seemed to hold up ok. Now my old t-maxx 2.5... that's another story. That thing would pee it's pants and spit out diff teeth if it saw a bump in the road. God forbid you try to go big block...

I have 2 nitro revos, one with an OS21TM and one with an LRP28S3 and an ERBEv1. All have original diffs. The nitros have many gallons through them and the ERBEv1 has almost 2 years of abuse on it. By original, I mean the gears. I replace the cups when they get sloppy and bearings when they get worn. Ridiculous how well they hold up considering my t-maxx 2.5 days. I do only run 4S in my ERBEv1, so that may explain my lack of issues with those.

As for my many savage's over the years, until the BP diffs came out... they were always tough to keep a diff alive in as well. Didn't help they used a weird bearing on the cup side which was smaller than the standard 8x16 and would fail early, which would take the ring/pinion with it. Before BP, the only way I kept a diff alive was getting alloy diff cases and shimming them within a hair of tight. Then replacing the bearings every gallon or so. Which, if you ever owned a pre-X savage... you know how much fun that is.

Now with my nitro X and Flux HP, I have BP diffs, alloy cups, whatever shims came in them, and they seem to hold up ok. Well, the flux will chomp a pinion once in a while, but after installing a center diff, that seems to be eliminated.

The only other truck I had that seemed to have diffs that lasted inexplicably forever was my losi aftershock. About 6 months after buying it new, Losi came out with the HD diff cups (or I became aware of them), which had steel inserts like the arrma cups. I put those in. I ran that thing for 3 hard hard years and never had a diff fail. I can't even remember changing a bearing in them... but I probably did. I had 2 spare diffs all oiled/greased/built in a parts box because of my previous savage/t-maxx diff woes. Never used them. Sold them with the truck because I got tired of the 2-speed issues.

Anyway, all that just to say that instead of tempting fate, I shimmed my outcast diffs as suggested by many. Adding shims on the ring gear for good pinion/ring mesh and using the mugen shims on all gears inside the diffs. I did that very early on. I've since chooched one diff I think since July when I bought it, but I'm 99% sure it's due to my diff cap/case screws being stripped and not holding the diff tight.

You would be correct in the shimmed department lol. But I also haven’t shunned any lol!!

I owned a savage flux for a few months and did chomp a pinion. Never shimmed that but it didn’t go until 2 months passed and this was back in 2011 so for a 6s truck that was fine. On my vorza I also never shimmed and it took me a few years to kill a diff (rear) and on my axial SCX-10 it obviously didn’t need it. My axial yeti score never got shimmed and I ran it with a 4s hobbywing system and never had a blowout. For all those trucks they definitely could’ve used shims, I just never put them in. The Traxxas trucks I’ve owned, smaxx, slash 2wd, slash 4x4, e revo vxl, 4tec, rustler, and revo .15 will agree with you in the Traxxas diff compartment, didn’t need shimming at all, tolerances were tight.