Carten T410R for street/parking lot bashing/racing?

[Leo.177]

I'm thinking of building a street racer/light basher with the Carten T410R. Anyone have any experience with Carten cars? Are there better options for about the same/lower price? Is the graphite lower deck going to be to brittle for bashing, should I get the T410R but switch out the lower deck for a plastic/composite one?

 

[DavidB1126]

Looks like a good choice
Just keep spare parts and tuning parts in handy if there is less / no parts support near you.

135 bucks for the kit? Amazing car for the price. Way better than a junk tt02.

 

[Leo.177]

Looks like a good choice
Just keep spare parts and tuning parts in handy if there is less / no parts support near you.

135 bucks for the kit? Amazing car for the price. Way better than a junk tt02.

Yeah the TT02 is not the best I have one but it has needed lots of mods to get it semi stable, only use it for rally as it does not feel stable enough when using it on the asphalt.

Do you think the graphite lower deck is going to be to brittle for bashing, should I get it but switch out the lower deck for a plastic/composite one?

 

[DavidB1126]

Yeah the TT02 is not the best I have one but it has needed lots of mods to get it semi stable, only use it for rally as it does not feel stable enough when using it on the asphalt.

Yea I had mine since mid February. Rarely do I want to run it. Can't stand the torque steer, and the fact that it can't even drive and track straight since the steering rack and stuff is either too tight or something. Tried everything to fix it but now I just leave it sit on the shelf. Ideally that's what Tamiyas are. For the shelf. Unless it's the high end TRF series of kits for racing.

Do you think the graphite lower deck is going to be to brittle for bashing, should I get it but switch out the lower deck for a plastic/composite one?

Not really into on road myself, @bill_delong could answer this as I seen him recommended this kit alot

 

[Leo.177]

Looks like a good choice
Just keep spare parts and tuning parts in handy if there is less / no parts support near you.

135 bucks for the kit? Amazing car for the price. Way better than a junk tt02.

The best price I found in the EU was for 179€ (incl.tax) (196,65$). Is it still a good price or are there other alternatives for around that price?

 

[Greywolf74]

I've never heard of it myself. If you get it, youll have to let us know how it works out.

 

[bill_delong]

Not really into on road myself, @bill_delong could answer this as I seen him recommended this kit alot

I have had great success with Nanda cars which I believe is the OEM for Carten, Nanda has be rebranded through Exceed and HobbyKing and probably other brands.

I have owned the NRX-10 and NX-12 cars myself but the T410R appears to be almost the same as the NRX-10 but with a carbon chassis instead of a plastic tub.

I feel it's a great basher and is reasonably durable, however NitroRCX hasn't re-stocked parts from Nanda ever since COVID, so I would make sure you can find a good supplier for Nanda parts before buying into the brand!

http://www.nandaracing.cn/products_detail.aspx?ProductsCateID=143&ProductsID=86

 

[Leo.177]

I have had great success with Nanda cars which I believe is the OEM for Carten, Nanda has be rebranded through Exceed and HobbyKing and probably other brands.

I have owned the NRX-10 and NX-12 cars myself but the T410R appears to be almost the same as the NRX-10 but with a carbon chassis instead of a plastic tub.

I feel it's a great basher and is reasonably durable, however NitroRCX hasn't re-stocked parts from Nanda ever since COVID, so I would make sure you can find a good supplier for Nanda parts before buying into the brand!

http://www.nandaracing.cn/products_detail.aspx?ProductsCateID=143&ProductsID=86

Do you think the exposed spur and pinion could be a problem? (getting destroyed by small rocks and other debris)

 

[Panko75]

135 bucks for the kit? Amazing car for the price. Way better than a junk tt02.

I'm sure that the Carten drives a lot better than a TT02, but in a bad crash I'd rather have a cheap, flexible plastic tub than graphite.

Do you think the exposed spur and pinion could be a problem? (getting destroyed by small rocks and other debris)

It comes down to where you drive, you could probably come up with a way to cover it.

If they're still out there I'd reccomend a Kyosho Fazer kit, they come with a few nice upgrades, they're sealed up, and use a flexible plastic tub.

Keep in mind that servo choice is important with an on-road car. The usual cheap Amazon might be a little too slow/sloppy.

 

[bill_delong]

Do you think the exposed spur and pinion could be a problem? (getting destroyed by small rocks and other debris)

very unlikely, even if you were to convert it into a rally car to be driven on gravel

That said, I would recommend converting an SCT into a rally if driving off-road to get far better performance, here's a TEKNO SCT410 conversion I did as an example:

 

[Leo.177]

very unlikely, even if you were to convert it into a rally car to be driven on gravel

That said, I would recommend converting an SCT into a rally if driving off-road to get far better performance, here's a TEKNO SCT410 conversion I did as an example:

View attachment 199022
View attachment 199023

Ok, I was just worried it would get completely destroyed. I will upgrade the spur to a steel one just incase, to give it more protection against debris.
The other option is to buy the rally version (it has a gear cover) and then switch out the shocks, shocktowers and buy swaybars.
Which option do you think is the best?

 

[bill_delong]

Ok, I was just worried it would get completely destroyed. I will upgrade the spur to a steel one just incase, to give it more protection against debris.
The other option is to buy the rally version (it has a gear cover) and then switch out the shocks, shocktowers and buy swaybars.
Which option do you think is the best?

I would rather destroy the spur than potentially lock up the motor and cause the electronics to fail, far less expensive to replace cheap plastic than expensive electronics

1/10 TC's are not particularly great for off-road, the Rally concept is more of a novelty, if you want to drive off-road then I would recommend an SCT or 1/8 buggy conversion.

The rally version will certainly improve handling if your surface is rough and uneven, but you're unlikely to gain the necessary ride height and would be better off with an off-road car instead.

 

[Leo.177]

I would rather destroy the spur than potentially lock up the motor and cause the electronics to fail, far less expensive to replace cheap plastic than expensive electronics

1/10 TC's are not particularly great for off-road, the Rally concept is more of a novelty, if you want to drive off-road then I would recommend an SCT or 1/8 buggy conversion.

The rally version will certainly improve handling if your surface is rough and uneven, but you're unlikely to gain the necessary ride height and would be better off with an off-road car instead.

I am guessing you have misunderstood me as I am not building a rally car. I was just thinking that it would be a better idea to buy the rally version as it has a gear cover. I want to build a on road street racer/basher (powersliding and other shenanigans). I think I am going to use a Firebird VTA body and the vta wheels/tires, they say that they are long lasting.
Does that sound like a good idea or do you have a better option for what I want to use it for?

 

[bill_delong]

In that case, YES the rally version sounds perfect for your situation

If you want to do speed runs, then I would stay away from any of the VTA bodies, a rear wing will drastically improve handling for speed runs!

The longest lasting tire I know are the USGT tires:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/gravit...er-tires-w-gt-wheel-white-4-grc124gtw/p668448

 

[Leo.177]

In that case, YES the rally version sounds perfect for your situation

If you want to do speed runs, then I would stay away from any of the VTA bodies, a rear wing will drastically improve handling for speed runs!

The longest lasting tire I know are the USGT tires:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/gravit...er-tires-w-gt-wheel-white-4-grc124gtw/p668448

Do you think I should buy new shocks, shock towers and sway bars or should I keep the rally suspension? Perhaps its better for the street, just worried it will roll easily.
To convert it to tc suspension it is 190€ (for the car) + 49€ for the parts.

 

[bill_delong]

I'd keep what comes with the rally version, the tuning window will be insignificant for your situation. In fact you'll be able to soak up some extra bumps better with the rally version

 

[Leo.177]

I'd keep what comes with the rally version, the tuning window will be insignificant for your situation. In fact you'll be able to soak up some extra bumps better with the rally version

Do you think it will roll easily when doing faster powerslides with the rally suspenion?

 

[bill_delong]

Do you think it will roll easily when doing faster powerslides with the rally suspenion?

This is what you can expect with the rally version being tested on a surface with comparable grip as asphalt:

 

[Leo.177]

This is what you can expect with the rally version being tested on a surface with comparable grip as asphalt:

Ok, looks good. But do you think I should buy sway bars to keep it from rolling and instead break traction?

 

[bill_delong]

Chances are the sway bars won't be necessary, I seriously doubt you'll experience traction rolls, and if you blindly install them then you can potentially make the car more difficult to drive

https://storage.googleapis.com/sodi...-reference/hudy%20off-road%20setup%20book.pdf