Carpet racing questions

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Addict Rc

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So me and my dad have wanted to do carpet racing for a while now, since we saw it around Halloween.
I’m going to say this once and only once, we are on a budget, not going to spend huge money incase we don’t like it.
We are most likely going to get this kit https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-a...q3Z_FnaRY_hDzVgQG4ZM6IzJx5z7FBhxoCUNoQAvD_BwE

But we weren’t sure if it has proper carpet tires or not? And for battery we will be using CNHL 4400 and possibly 6200 I have 3 of each already, and that car only takes shorty lipos and those are the only shortys we own, is there a better battery for carpet?

Also, like I said on a budget but when these tires wear out what’s some good rims and tires (cheaper)?

Thanks to all that help
 
So the RB10 is the RTR version of the B6.2 or B6.3. I would rather build one up or find a roller off of Facebook marketplace place. The RTR is 335 and the new B6.4 kit is 386. It also depends on what your local track runs for 2wd buggy. Either 17.5 stock (or even 21.5) or mod. 2wd buggy is a popular class and a good starter class too. If you find a roller of of FB marketplace 1. It might be cheaper than the kit. But I recommend to go over the car check diffs, shocks, bearings and the whole car. But I recommend building the kit to see how the car is put together so you can do repairs later on. For lipos, there are regular 2s lipos 7.4v or 2s LiHV 7.6v shortys. Most racers use 5mm bullets so if those batteries have 5mm bullet inboard you should be alright. LiHV packs give a little bit more punch and power due to that extra voltage. I use LiHV 6100 Maclan packs in my B74. I'm thinking about getting either gensacearespammers redline batteries or might go with protek packs. These shorty batteries can get expensive real quick just with transponders.

For tires, on my 4wd buggy I use Schumacher Cactus Rears and JCon Swagger Fronts. They hook up very good at my local track (Grey EOS carpet). I use associated B64 wheels for my B74 (for the offset) since associated has a different offset than the other brands. 1. I would go to track to see on who runs what and what they run as for motors.

And I would see if they stock RB10 RTR or associated parts (they should). If you want to build a kit there are different brands that might be cheaper. Associated with their B6.3 / B6.4. TLR with the 22 5.0 (AC for the carpet version) Yokomo with the Cal 3.1 or whatever 2wd buggy they have. And there is Xray xb2 which Xray is way out of your price range as their kits can be 450 dollars plus. Also Xray parts are kinda hard to find over here in the US.

Also transponders. Most tracks use either Live RC or something else like RC scoring pro. I use the MyLaps RC3 I think. Not sure but it's a 3 wire. Tracks are always different with transponders and lap decoders.


You can always race the RTR but if you are going to be racing every weekend or close to it than a kit would be better in the long run. Also with the kit, you can make more setup changes and learn more things.

You would also need some more tools as well if building a kit like a ball cup wrench, shock pliers, solder iron or station, turnbuckle wrenches, ride height gauge and camber gauge. And a good hex tool set. I use Dynamite, arrowmaxx and MIP. Never stripped out a driver (besides my arrowmax 1.5 but it's my uncle's fault) Good drivers. Team ed's are good too.

All in all if your racing every weekend or close to it I recommend building up a kit or get a roller. If racing just once in a while for fun then the RTR should be fine.
If building up a kit or used roller:

Electronics:

I run Hobbywing so I would recommend the XR10 series of ESCs. The xr10 justock is pretty good. Even the HW quickrun sensored ESCs are good budget escs. For motors if they are running 17.5 there is the HW justock, I seen people use the Trinity slot.machine motors and they are pretty good. For servo I am running a Xpert 4000 in my B74. Plenty of speed and torque. For radio I am using my RadioLink RC4GS V3 and it's ok for now. I need more in depth steering settings and more car control so I'm looking into a futaba 4pm or 4pls. Or even the 4px if I can find one.
 
Last edited:
So the RB10 is the RTR version of the B6.2 or B6.3. I would rather build one up or find a roller off of Facebook marketplace place. The RTR is 335 and the new B6.4 kit is 386. It also depends on what your local track runs for 2wd buggy. Either 17.5 stock (or even 21.5) or mod. 2wd buggy is a popular class and a good starter class too. If you find a roller of of FB marketplace 1. It might be cheaper than the kit. But I recommend to go over the car check diffs, shocks, bearings and the whole car. But I recommend building the kit to see how the car is put together so you can do repairs later on. For lipos, there are regular 2s lipos 7.4v or 2s LiHV 7.6v shortys. Most racers use 5mm bullets so if those batteries have 5mm bullet inboard you should be alright. LiHV packs give a little bit more punch and power due to that extra voltage. I use LiHV 6100 Maclan packs in my B74. I'm thinking about getting either gensacearespammers redline batteries or might go with protek packs. These shorty batteries can get expensive real quick just with transponders.

For tires, on my 4wd buggy I use Schumacher Cactus Rears and JCon Swagger Fronts. They hook up very good at my local track (Grey EOS carpet). I use associated B64 wheels for my B74 (for the offset) since associated has a different offset than the other brands. 1. I would go to track to see on who runs what and what they run as for motors.

And I would see if they stock RB10 RTR or associated parts (they should). If you want to build a kit there are different brands that might be cheaper. Associated with their B6.3 / B6.4. TLR with the 22 5.0 (AC for the carpet version) Yokomo with the Cal 3.1 or whatever 2wd buggy they have. And there is Xray xb2 which Xray is way out of your price range as their kits can be 450 dollars plus. Also Xray parts are kinda hard to find over here in the US.

Also transponders. Most tracks use either Live RC or something else like RC scoring pro. I use the MyLaps RC3 I think. Not sure but it's a 3 wire. Tracks are always different with transponders and lap decoders.


You can always race the RTR but if you are going to be racing every weekend or close to it than a kit would be better in the long run. Also with the kit, you can make more setup changes and learn more things.

You would also need some more tools as well if building a kit like a ball cup wrench, shock pliers, solder iron or station, turnbuckle wrenches, ride height gauge and camber gauge. And a good hex tool set. I use Dynamite, arrowmaxx and MIP. Never stripped out a driver (besides my arrowmax 1.5 but it's my uncle's fault) Good drivers. Team ed's are good too.

All in all if your racing every weekend or close to it I recommend building up a kit or get a roller. If racing just once in a while for fun then the RTR should be fine.
If building up a kit or used roller:

Electronics:

I run Hobbywing so I would recommend the XR10 series of ESCs. The xr10 justock is pretty good. Even the HW quickrun sensored ESCs are good budget escs. For motors if they are running 17.5 there is the HW justock, I seen people use the Trinity slot.machine motors and they are pretty good. For servo I am running a Xpert 4000 in my B74. Plenty of speed and torque. For radio I am using my RadioLink RC4GS V3 and it's ok for now. I need more in depth steering settings and more car control so I'm looking into a futaba 4pm or 4pls. Or even the 4px if I can find one.
Wow thanks, like I said super budget for now due to having stuff for a few builds coming
 
I get the budget thing but you might keep this in mind, I doubt there is many budget builds on the podium.
If you want to be competitive you should think about upgrading at some point.
 
If you are on a tight budget, then see if your local track offers a Spec Slash class.

Most carpet clubs are running stock which is FAR more expensive than running Mod.

RTR's are not the same as a kit, where RTR's take short cuts and will require expensive upgrades to make them comparable to a kit and then you buy twice because the RTR electronics are not suitable for stock racing.

If you want to run 17.5 stock on a tight budget this is how I would do it:

https://shop.thercproshop.com/pr-racing/pr-s1-v3-fm-sport-2wd-buggy-kit.html (need to get spares, or buy a second kit to have as spares)

https://www.amazon.com/Radiolink-Channels-Transmitter-Receiver-Controller/dp/B09WVDMC35/

https://www.rcjuice.com/motor-esc/b...r/hobbystar-540-brushless-sensored-motor.html

https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/col...xr10-justock-g3-esc-2s?variant=40127960219763

https://www.rcjuice.com/servos/serv...s-3301lv-high-speed-shorty-digital-servo.html

https://www.rcjuice.com/lipo-batter...s-100c-hardcase-shorty-lite-lipo-battery.html

https://rawspeedrc.com/fast-forward-2wf-buggy-carpet-tire-no-inserts-1-pr/

https://rawspeedrc.com/fast-forward-2-2-rear-buggy-carpet-tire-no-inserts-1-pr/

https://rawspeedrc.com/wheels/1-10-buggy-wheels/

Also need to budget following items:

Budget anywhere from $700 - $1500 for a typical 2WD Stock racer setup when all is said and done depending on quality of components selected
 
If you are on a tight budget, then see if your local track offers a Spec Slash class.

Most carpet clubs are running stock which is FAR more expensive than running Mod.

RTR's are not the same as a kit, where RTR's take short cuts and will require expensive upgrades to make them comparable to a kit and then you buy twice because the RTR electronics are not suitable for stock racing.

If you want to run 17.5 stock on a tight budget this is how I would do it:

https://shop.thercproshop.com/pr-racing/pr-s1-v3-fm-sport-2wd-buggy-kit.html (need to get spares, or buy a second kit to have as spares)

https://www.amazon.com/Radiolink-Channels-Transmitter-Receiver-Controller/dp/B09WVDMC35/

https://www.rcjuice.com/motor-esc/b...r/hobbystar-540-brushless-sensored-motor.html

https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/col...xr10-justock-g3-esc-2s?variant=40127960219763

https://www.rcjuice.com/servos/serv...s-3301lv-high-speed-shorty-digital-servo.html

https://www.rcjuice.com/lipo-batter...s-100c-hardcase-shorty-lite-lipo-battery.html

https://rawspeedrc.com/fast-forward-2wf-buggy-carpet-tire-no-inserts-1-pr/

https://rawspeedrc.com/fast-forward-2-2-rear-buggy-carpet-tire-no-inserts-1-pr/

https://rawspeedrc.com/wheels/1-10-buggy-wheels/

Also need to budget following items:

Budget anywhere from $700 - $1500 for a typical 2WD Stock racer setup when all is said and done depending on quality of components selected
👆this
 
I get the budget thing but you might keep this in mind, I doubt there is many budget builds on the podium.
If you want to be competitive you should think about upgrading at some point.
Honestly, comps isn’t the focus on this one, this is to see if we like carpet if so we will build some nice ones and do comps
If you are on a tight budget, then see if your local track offers a Spec Slash class.

Most carpet clubs are running stock which is FAR more expensive than running Mod.

RTR's are not the same as a kit, where RTR's take short cuts and will require expensive upgrades to make them comparable to a kit and then you buy twice because the RTR electronics are not suitable for stock racing.

If you want to run 17.5 stock on a tight budget this is how I would do it:

https://shop.thercproshop.com/pr-racing/pr-s1-v3-fm-sport-2wd-buggy-kit.html (need to get spares, or buy a second kit to have as spares)

https://www.amazon.com/Radiolink-Channels-Transmitter-Receiver-Controller/dp/B09WVDMC35/

https://www.rcjuice.com/motor-esc/b...r/hobbystar-540-brushless-sensored-motor.html

https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/col...xr10-justock-g3-esc-2s?variant=40127960219763

https://www.rcjuice.com/servos/serv...s-3301lv-high-speed-shorty-digital-servo.html

https://www.rcjuice.com/lipo-batter...s-100c-hardcase-shorty-lite-lipo-battery.html

https://rawspeedrc.com/fast-forward-2wf-buggy-carpet-tire-no-inserts-1-pr/

https://rawspeedrc.com/fast-forward-2-2-rear-buggy-carpet-tire-no-inserts-1-pr/

https://rawspeedrc.com/wheels/1-10-buggy-wheels/

Also need to budget following items:

Budget anywhere from $700 - $1500 for a typical 2WD Stock racer setup when all is said and done depending on quality of components selected
No slash, SC10 only
 
Honestly, comps isn’t the focus on this one, this is to see if we like carpet if so we will build some nice ones and do comps
True. It's kinda hard driving on a different surface but you get used to it. I drive on carpet the most. I drove on clay 2 times and I really don't like it. Also to mention I drive better on carpet than I do anything else (well besides the street and in the grass) I might like clay better if I tune the car better for clay like using traction compound or some different tires like slicks. Maybe changing up the shock and diff oil.
No slash, SC10 only
Disguise the slash as a sc10 lol ;) 🤪
Budget anywhere from $700 - $1500 for a typical 2WD Stock racer setup when all is said and done depending on quality of components selected
Yep. I'm about 800 or 900 dollars into the buggy B74 build. Coming from a 2wd slash / rustler and 2wd mini b, I feel like 4wd is more forgiving and drives alot better. It does take some practice and time from a 2wd basher to a 4wd racer. From about 5 / 6 track days. My driving with the buggy greatly improved from day 1. (Day 1 and 2 were in clay and the rest on carpet) Like I said earlier carpet is my best choice since I drive the best on carpet. Now I drive too fast and need to slow my roll.
 
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No slash, SC10 only

If you want to save money, then SC10 is a no brainer, far more durable and tire wear on SCT is far less abrasive compared to buggy.

I don't race 2WD Buggy anymore specifically because they wear tires the fastest of any class averaging 2-3 race days for a set of tires. 4WD Buggy will get double the lifespan at close to 6 race days before lap times drop off. A set of SCT tires on the turf track in my area will last 6+ months of racing.

Check local rules where 2WD SC is typically a 13.5T stock restriction.

initial costs to get into the hobby is a drop in the bucket compared to tire costs and proper maintenance.

Just trying to help set your expectations.
 
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