So the RB10 is the RTR version of the B6.2 or B6.3. I would rather build one up or find a roller off of Facebook marketplace place. The RTR is 335 and the new B6.4 kit is 386. It also depends on what your local track runs for 2wd buggy. Either 17.5 stock (or even 21.5) or mod. 2wd buggy is a popular class and a good starter class too. If you find a roller of of FB marketplace 1. It might be cheaper than the kit. But I recommend to go over the car check diffs, shocks, bearings and the whole car. But I recommend building the kit to see how the car is put together so you can do repairs later on. For lipos, there are regular 2s lipos 7.4v or 2s LiHV 7.6v shortys. Most racers use 5mm bullets so if those batteries have 5mm bullet inboard you should be alright. LiHV packs give a little bit more punch and power due to that extra voltage. I use LiHV 6100 Maclan packs in my B74. I'm thinking about getting either gensacearespammers redline batteries or might go with protek packs. These shorty batteries can get expensive real quick just with transponders.
For tires, on my 4wd buggy I use Schumacher Cactus Rears and JCon Swagger Fronts. They hook up very good at my local track (Grey EOS carpet). I use associated B64 wheels for my B74 (for the offset) since associated has a different offset than the other brands. 1. I would go to track to see on who runs what and what they run as for motors.
And I would see if they stock RB10 RTR or associated parts (they should). If you want to build a kit there are different brands that might be cheaper. Associated with their B6.3 / B6.4. TLR with the 22 5.0 (AC for the carpet version) Yokomo with the Cal 3.1 or whatever 2wd buggy they have. And there is Xray xb2 which Xray is way out of your price range as their kits can be 450 dollars plus. Also Xray parts are kinda hard to find over here in the US.
Also transponders. Most tracks use either Live RC or something else like RC scoring pro. I use the MyLaps RC3 I think. Not sure but it's a 3 wire. Tracks are always different with transponders and lap decoders.
You can always race the RTR but if you are going to be racing every weekend or close to it than a kit would be better in the long run. Also with the kit, you can make more setup changes and learn more things.
You would also need some more tools as well if building a kit like a ball cup wrench, shock pliers, solder iron or station, turnbuckle wrenches, ride height gauge and camber gauge. And a good hex tool set. I use Dynamite, arrowmaxx and MIP. Never stripped out a driver (besides my arrowmax 1.5 but it's my uncle's fault) Good drivers. Team ed's are good too.
All in all if your racing every weekend or close to it I recommend building up a kit or get a roller. If racing just once in a while for fun then the RTR should be fine.
If building up a kit or used roller:
Electronics:
I run Hobbywing so I would recommend the XR10 series of ESCs. The xr10 justock is pretty good. Even the HW quickrun sensored ESCs are good budget escs. For motors if they are running 17.5 there is the HW justock, I seen people use the Trinity slot.machine motors and they are pretty good. For servo I am running a Xpert 4000 in my B74. Plenty of speed and torque. For radio I am using my RadioLink RC4GS V3 and it's ok for now. I need more in depth steering settings and more car control so I'm looking into a
futaba 4pm or 4pls. Or even the 4px if I can find one.
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