Can this be repaired? Beginner Advice WL124018

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View attachment 136759Hi All,

I very recently bought the Wltoys 124018. Charged the batteries over the weekend and got the car out for the first time today. Witching roughly three minutes my little boy had smashed it into a curb and a wheel had snapped off (see pictures). I wonder if any of you experts could be kind enough to advise me on the questions below.

Can this be repaired?
Can it be repaired by a fat idiot who has no experience?
What do I need to buy?
Is there a better alternative car which would withstand more of a bashing?

Many thanks in advance

Jamie
Oh, easy! This is where I know my stuff, with the Wltoys cars! (look at my user profile, it's my 144001) Looks like you broke a left front steering knuckle, which is one of the first things you break when you slam into a curb, with any car! You can get plastic, or metal replacements, lemme know if you need a link to them! We don't recommend metal suspension arms on any car, because they will do more harm than good in a crash (metal doesn't flex and obsorb impact like plastic, it just transfers force to other parts that may be more expensive and time consuming to replace, so be smart in where you go metal). Could you tell us your skill level, and what you know about RC (be honest, we all start from somewhere!)? Right now I'm trempted to shove a boatload of info onto your brain, but you may already know that stuff lol! The Wltoys cars can be made tough, with a handful of smart upgrades. You don't need to go out and buy a $900 giant RC to bash, if you don't send your cars to the moon, and just have fun with your kid, and stuff like that, you'll be pretty happy with the Wltoys stuff, generally.

Check out QuadifyRC's blog, it's an absolute gold mine of info for the Wltoys cars! https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews
I would fix it and make a speed run car out of it. I heard the WLToys are not good for bashing, more for speed running. If you don’t have a proper LiPo charger, get one as soon as possible. After running the RC, and you aren’t going to be using it for more than a day, storage charge it.
They do make pretty good smaller speed run cars, you can get 100+mph if you're really determined! Sure, the Wltoys cars won't be as durable as an Xmaxx or Kraton 8s, but that's not the point, they are plenty good for lighter bashing, and much more afforable. They are really good bang-for-your buck, it's amazing how much you get for your $$ (I should know, I have an upgraded 144001, with a brushless conversion coming!)
 
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Oh, easy! This is where I know my stuff, with the Wltoys cars! (look at my user profile, it's my 144001) Looks like you broke a left front steering knuckle, which is one of the first things you break when you slam into a curb, with any car! You can get plastic, or metal replacements, lemme know if you need a link to them! We don't recommend metal suspension arms on any car, because they will do more harm than good in a crash (metal doesn't flex and obsorb impact like plastic, it just transfers force to other parts that may be more expensive and time consuming to replace, so be smart in where you go metal). Could you tell us your skill level, and what you know about RC (be honest, we all start from somewhere!)? Right now I'm trempted to shove a boatload of info onto your brain, but you may already know that stuff lol! The Wltoys cars can be made tough, with a handful of smart upgrades. You don't need to go out and buy a $900 giant RC to bash, if you don't send your cars to the moon, and just have fun with your kid, and stuff like that, you'll be pretty happy with the Wltoys stuff, generally.

Check out QuadifyRC's blog, it's an absolute gold mine of info for the Wltoys cars! https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews

They do make pretty good smaller speed run cars, you can get 100+mph if you're really determined! Sure, the Wltoys cars won't be as durable as an Xmaxx or Kraton 8s, but that's not the point, they are plenty good for lighter bashing, and much more afforable. They are really good bang-for-your buck, it's amazing how much you get for your $$ (I should know, I have an upgraded 144001, with a brushless conversion coming!)
How well would a 124019 work as a street-only RC? Of course with a lowered suspension.
 
Oh, easy! This is where I know my stuff, with the Wltoys cars! (look at my user profile, it's my 144001) Looks like you broke a left front steering knuckle, which is one of the first things you break when you slam into a curb, with any car! You can get plastic, or metal replacements, lemme know if you need a link to them! We don't recommend metal suspension arms on any car, because they will do more harm than good in a crash (metal doesn't flex and obsorb impact like plastic, it just transfers force to other parts that may be more expensive and time consuming to replace, so be smart in where you go metal). Could you tell us your skill level, and what you know about RC (be honest, we all start from somewhere!)? Right now I'm trempted to shove a boatload of info onto your brain, but you may already know that stuff lol! The Wltoys cars can be made tough, with a handful of smart upgrades. You don't need to go out and buy a $900 giant RC to bash, if you don't send your cars to the moon, and just have fun with your kid, and stuff like that, you'll be pretty happy with the Wltoys stuff, generally.

Check out QuadifyRC's blog, it's an absolute gold mine of info for the Wltoys cars! https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews

They do make pretty good smaller speed run cars, you can get 100+mph if you're really determined! Sure, the Wltoys cars won't be as durable as an Xmaxx or Kraton 8s, but that's not the point, they are plenty good for lighter bashing, and much more afforable. They are really good bang-for-your buck, it's amazing how much you get for your $$ (I should know, I have an upgraded 144001, with a brushless conversion coming!)
Brilliant thanks. If you could link me to the exact part I need, that would be great.

Please shove away. I a complete novice other than building Tamiya’s about 20 years ago and waiting for hours for the battery to charge.

I watched a fair few YouTube videos prior to buying that and it seemed to be the most suitable but I get the impression on here the WL toys stuff isn’t as well regarded. If parts are tricky to come by, other options might be more sensible and obviously appreciate others expertise over me having watched a few videos online. All these views and advice have been really helpful. Guess you get what you pay for to an extent and the Chinese stuff will have some compromises.
 
How well would a 124019 work as a street-only RC? Of course with a lowered suspension.
Oh, that'd work pretty well! Lowered ride height, maybe a mid-sized brushless system (and Tx/Rx, and drop in servo) to make it more lively, some street-like tires, sway bars if you want, one or two more bits and bobs, and you got a capable, fun, street RC! You could even throw a body from Phat Bodies or LC Racing on there to make it look the part! QuadifyRC made on of his 144001s a "street car" here (he hasn't done a full post on it here, but if you scroll down you can see the car he installed the sway bars on): https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/installing-lc-racing-roll-bars-for-your-144001-124019-124017
Brilliant thanks. If you could link me to the exact part I need, that would be great.

Please shove away. I a complete novice other than building Tamiya’s about 20 years ago and waiting for hours for the battery to charge.

I watched a fair few YouTube videos prior to buying that and it seemed to be the most suitable but I get the impression on here the WL toys stuff isn’t as well regarded. If parts are tricky to come by, other options might be more sensible and obviously appreciate others expertise over me having watched a few videos online. All these views and advice have been really helpful. Guess you get what you pay for to an extent and the Chinese stuff will have some compromises.
Yep, no problem! I'll link to the parts, on Amazon, Banggood (they are unlike other Chinese websites, I've heard they are trustworthy), and Walmart (fun fact, I actually have a whole, 5 page long Google Doc filled with part links for the Wltoys cars, from batteries, to brushless setups, tires, and more):

(BG) Front metal knuckles: https://www.banggood.com/Wltoys-1-o...ntCountry=America&cur_warehouse=CN&ID=6287832

While you're at it, consider getting metal front caster block/hub carriers, and rear hub carriers (a little stronger than the front hub carriers and knuckles, but still a weak spot), they are a common weak spot on most RCs (discounts right now on BG, check out these prices):
https://www.banggood.com/Door-Seats...entCountry=America&cur_warehouse=CN&ID=513344

Seems like a slightly different version of the part linked above, but a bit more expensive: https://www.banggood.com/Wltoys-1-o...ntCountry=America&cur_warehouse=CN&ID=6287832

Rear hub carriers (dunno why BG only has them in blue right now): https://www.banggood.com/1-14-Rear-...tml?akmClientCountry=America&cur_warehouse=CN

Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Drfeify-Carrier-Steering-Knuckle-Compatible/dp/B0872MZXMS/ref=sr_1_30?keywords=Wltoys+14401+metal+knuckle&qid=1637174611&qsid=146-6459845-8461136&sr=8-30&sres=B016ZM3CVA,B07PT5411X,B086R3CLXT,B01MQOA4CH,B093FDRB1S,B0887TLWWB,B071ZX9JB7,B0899ZZP54,B08T84TFCB,B076CNKQX4,B08FC4LWCG,B07RGZ26DQ,B019XU3C3O,B08SBMB6FL,B07BBH9X72,B08T1V2X9D,B07F5WSMTF,B085G1R7MV,B07YCN6LW9,B07DV6N2PD (these are the older version of the new metal knuckles, they function the same, just look a bit rougher, but some upgrade wheels will NOT work with these older knuckles)

Walmart combo pack, with all metal suspension parts, however, as I said before, I don't recommend installing the metal A-arms/suspension arms:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/for-WLto...-C-Rear-Hub-Seat-Servo-Pull-Rod-Red/289783401 (these have the old metal knuckle design)

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Metal-Up...124019-Replacement-Red/147490882?athbdg=L1700 (these have the new metal knuckle design)

You can get individual metal parts on Walmart, but the packs are better deals. I'll shove some more RC stuff into your brain later, once I think of more stuff that'll be helpful for you :)

Edit: I heartily recommend checking out QuadifyRC's website (https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews), browse through it, and you will pick up tons of info, he also has an article on the new metal knuckles, and an older article where he reviewed a bunch of metal parts (including the old knuckle design, since it was the only version available then). Plus, it'll save me some time since I won't have to type up all that stuff lol!
 
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Welcome to the forum. Yeah, it can be reparied. banggood.com should have parts for it. Just plan on a long wait to get them. Google searches for parts will often find what you need as well. Ebay is another good source for parts for the WLToys stuff.

How old is your boy?
I have had good luck with Ali express for parts. They have always arrive to Michigan in less then 2 weeks. And the are a little cheaper then banggood. Looks like you need at least steering knuckle and drive shaft.
 
I would fix it and make a speed run car out of it. I heard the WLToys are not good for bashing, more for speed running. If you don’t have a proper LiPo charger, get one as soon as possible. After running the RC, and you aren’t going to be using it for more than a day, storage charge it.
i have bashed the hell out of my wltoys 14401's many times full speed to the curb super impressed with the car, i purchased that same all metal parts but never installed a single thing (i only enjoy working on real cars not RC ;/ )
 
I watched a fair few YouTube videos prior to buying that and it seemed to be the most suitable but I get the impression on here the WL toys stuff isn’t as well regarded. .
As with any all inclusive forum you can expect to run into fan-boys and those with very strong brand opinions. Most people here seem to be pretty respectful and friendly, though. I have no experience with Wltoys, but I know folks who have great luck with them and they also have a good aftermarket to service them. I think a lot of these people are smarter than me in the sense that they embrace bargain RC’s, make them work for their purposes, and spend much less money than I ever have to maintain my Associated, Losi, Arrma, and even my Traxxas trucks. And I can say with certainty that your WL124018 is probably vastly superior in many ways than the much higher end RC’s were back in the day.
In regard to prior comments:
1. I agree to pass on All-Aluminum-Everything. Especially a-arms. I typically get aluminum hubs/carriers, aluminum shock towers, and aluminum steering bellcranks. It’s cheaper and easier to replace a plastic a-arm than bending and breaking three or four more aluminum components after the same kiss of a curb.
2. Banggood is good, as is AliExpress and both have huge numbers of extremely affordable WL parts. Expect to wait 2-4 weeks to see your stuff. E-bay and Amazon might have what you need as well for a higher price but much faster arrival.
3. You have a lot to learn about LiPo’s and how to safely handle them. The learning curve is a little steep for noobs, but it is the first and most critical thing to learn! A broken a-arm can be a disappointment. Burning your house down would be a bigger one.
4. YouTube is your friend.
I hope you simply have a blast with this hobby and that you and your kids have as much fun as I do with this hobby.
Welcome to the fray, sir!
 
Thanks for the detailed response. In terms of budget, I guess around £200 all in.

I was considering a Flyhal F600 prior to buying wltoys. That’s 4wd and sounds like it would be less prone to damage?

I will have a more in depth look at the models you have suggested, guess I’d like a balance between speed and durability. Not so slow it’s boring but not at the expense of the car breaking every five minutes!

This is the battery

View attachment 136769
Yeah, the Wltoys 144001 and HBX 16889/SG 160_/Flyhal FC600 are all great cars, the latter are all the same, just rebranded (the SG 1602 and Flyhal FC 600 are truggy versions of the HBX 16889 with a different body shell and tires), HBX is the original. So they can all be considered HBX cars just rebranded under different brands. I actually have a SG 1602 on the way, it's brushless out of the box. The SG 1601/2 are brushless out of the box, same as the Flyhal.

HBX makes multiple versions of the 16889, you have the stock 16889 brushed, 16889 brushless, and 16889A Pro (which is the best and most expensive of the bunch, it has a bigger brushless motor, and oil filled shocks stock, full metal drivetrain, and conventinal hex and nut style CVDs in the front and dogbones in the rear). The Flyhal is a truggy version of the HBX 16889A Pro, meaning it has all the metal hopups and stuff stock, as well as a bigger brushless motor, it's normally about $25 cheaper than the 16889A Pro but the 95% the same car!

My favorite RC blogger, QuadifyRC (@QuadifyRC.com), has covered these cars in great detail, he's and expert on the Wltoys stuff and knows a lot about the HBX 16889 variants.
His articles are all good reads, check these out (as well as the comments below the articles), he reviews the HBX 16889A Pro and the SG 1602 and compares them with the Wltoys stuff. Hope this all makes sense!

https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarrevi...k-this-is-the-best-small-basher-I've-ever-had

https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/sg-1601-sg1602-brushless-rc-truck-long-term-use-update

https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/sg-1602-review-an-excellend-budget-brushless-116-truck
 
i have bashed the hell out of my wltoys 14401's many times full speed to the curb super impressed with the car, i purchased that same all metal parts but never installed a single thing (i only enjoy working on real cars not RC ;/ )
They are decently though, you can get tougher small scale RCs like the HBX 16889 and it's variants (I have a brushless SG1602 coming, which is a truggy version of the brushless HBX 16889), which is 1/16 and nearly imortal, but the 144001 and 12401_ are very versatile platforms, with tons of mod potential (just check out mine, it's a brushless basher, with a few LC Racing parts, TBR bumper, and some homemade goodies). Only upgrade some parts to metal, some parts like a metal spur gear or metal A-arms are best left plastic, because you want some parts that are cheap and easy to replace to break, instead of something more expensive and/or hard to replace like your chassis or diff box breaking.
 
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