break in problems

[Limpin]

hey guys, extreme newbie here i am trying to break in this o.s. .21 on my inferno, but it seems after initial setup to factory specs the, 3mm needle and 3 turns out for the high speed setting, i go to start the car it cranks, and beigns to shoot up into high revs immediately so i crank down on the radio's trim settings just to get it to slow down, and if i do get it to slow down with the trim settings and it almost quits, i may slowly ease into the throttle but that only kills the motor.

my question is this:

What do i need to adjust to get it to idle (sit and run, not moving)
Am i supposed to get it to idle or just let it run at these factory settings for one tank say in circles and figure 8's and then progress to get it into more throttle, once "broke in" adjust it to sit and idle?

are all of these things normal? i really dont want to screw up this motor

 

[PiErow]

You need to warm it up, first. Its not going to fire right up nd idol perfect. Just work with it.

 

[Sgt Blamo]

Here's what I did,
I Heated up the head using a heat gun, then wrapped the head with a small towel and taped it in place. I adjusted the idle up enough for it to run being so rich, then fired it up. I had to make a few adjustments to keep it running(lean it just a hair). I then drove it back and forth, straight line with gradual throttle increases, very mild. I made sure I was able to get it to 200(I use a digital temp gauge), then after I complete that tank of fuel I pull the glow plug, drop about 4 drops of after-run oil down into the head and rotate the fly-wheel to set it so it sits at BDC (I use the a mark on the crank and flywheel to confirm BDC). Being that I'm breaking in a Novarossi P5, I'm running about 10-12 tanks before I begin to tune it. If you're running a hi-end motor, it will take about that many tanks to break it in. The lower end motors break-in much sooner, about 2-4 tanks (lower end being OS RG's,Hyper 8 ports,etc.)

 

[Rolex]

Set your radio trim ALL THE WAY OFF before you adjust your carb opening to idle. Only use the trim for starting and warming up.
If it still idles very high, your LSN is probably set too lean. Start it, let it idle, and make your changes at running temp.

 

[Limpin]

its an o.s. rg so i guess "low" end 120 bucks is kinda high end for me but back to breaking it in..

so trim all the way off? it nearly closes the carb, then i adjust the throttle out to 3mm on the carb. LSN = low speed correct? so the low speed needs to be rich to get a true non moving "idle" and if its lean it will be moving?

as for this heating up and cooling, and after run oils..

is all of this neccessary? i do not have a heat gun or any after run oil, is it suggested that i get these tools? This seems like a bit much, but i guess if it is going to work extremely well all of this is neccessary.

thanks for your help guys.

 

[Rolex]

With the trim off, that's when you adjust the idle screw to its' proper opening.
LSN is Low Speed Needle. Set it to factory specs. Leaning it will also raise the idle speed, and richening it will lower it. You need to get these 2 set to a happy medium.

 

[Sgt Blamo]

Sorry if I was a bit confusing. I use the heat gun to help get it cranked, you don't need a heat gun, you can use a hair dryer if you have one. It's not required, it just helps when you're dealing with a lot of compression, as in a P5 @ $300.
I just thought maybe I might help by giving you my method of break-in. Take it easy and slow and it will pay off! I presume you've invested in a temp gauge. You will need "after run oil" to put in your engine to protect it from rusting after usage. I always put a few drops in thru the head after I'm done for the day and turn it over by hand several times.
Listen to Rolex, as he knows his stuff and has been doing this a long time. I'm still learning, but I do a lot of asking and researching.

 

[mikeburgin]

SGT BLAMO do you realise you can use a 50/50 mix of trans fluid and wd40, works out alot cheaper and your not likely to run out,

 

[Limpin]

Leaning it will also raise the idle speed, and richening it will lower it. You need to get these 2 set to a happy medium.

thats what i was wondering. thanks! ill go mix up some tranny/wd40 for after run oil, also where can i get a tem gauge?

one last finaly question should i be trying to get it to sit and idle (not moving) before i put it on the ground?

 

[Rolex]

If you don't have factory directions for break in, it's always a good idea to put the car up on a block and let it idle 2 or 3 tanks. You might need an idle speed that will cause the wheels to spin without putting a drag on the clutch. That's the reason to have it on a block.
Mark the flywheel for BDC (Bottom Dead Center) and return it to that position for cool down. Even if the engine stalls when it's up to temp, return it to BDC and allow it to cool completely before restarting it.
"Break in blues" are a common issue, but the more fuel that runs through it, the more dependable it will get. Be patient and stick with it.

 

[jon2]

If this an OS 21 RG with Pullstart let me know, I have that engine new.

 

[Limpin]

yes its an o.s. 21 rg, but not the pull start, i had a pull start before so, part of the issue was getting used to the box.

but thanks for your help guys, i got it through 3 tanks(thanks to rolex's settings it idles like a champ), now I'm running it around on 1/4 throttle, and i can tell this thing will blow away the original from kyosho.