break-in/broke-in

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bazzly

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RC Driving Style
I have gone through about 1/2 gallon of fuel so far...How will I actually know when it is actual broken in?
Also...I tried to run it in my grass for a few and it went to about 240 (Still running it a bit rich, runs fine on hard ground)...no big deal, but made me think...do I need to tweek the carb for the terrain, or should it be a one size fits all type of thing?

I also have a few other questions/advice but will have to post a bit later.

Thanks
 
At a 1/2 gallon you should be plenty broken in. As for tweaking the carb if you are running different places and even the tmp on different days can mean that there are better setting but if you're not into tweaking the carb every time you run then you can find a happy medium that the truck runs well at but doesn't overheat. As for the high temps in the grass have you checked to make sure the slipper clutch isn't slipping?
 
At a 1/2 gallon you should be plenty broken in. As for tweaking the carb if you are running different places and even the tmp on different days can mean that there are better setting but if you're not into tweaking the carb every time you run then you can find a happy medium that the truck runs well at but doesn't overheat. As for the high temps in the grass have you checked to make sure the slipper clutch isn't slipping?

I have no idea what that is, or how I would check.

A question about the carb...how do I know when the low is set correctly? I know about setting the high from one of the other posts but not the low. What is a good indication the low is set correctly?
 
Here is a link to the tuning flow chart that should help you set the needles

The slipper clutch is a stack of metal and plastic disks that sits behind the plastic gears on transmission input shaft, it helps protect the drive train if you take a big hit by slipping instead of breaking parts, if its slipping more then it should the motor os working hard while the truck isn't going...
There is the black plastic cover that covers the clutch bell and the gears in the center of the gear cover there is a small plug that you can pop out and there will be a nylock nut on the end of the shaft with a spring underneath it. This is what controls the tension and how much it does or doesn't slip, a good basic setting is 1/2 turn out from tight, so tighten down all the way and then back it off 1/2 turn
 
That is excellent...next time I get it up and running I'm gonna give that a go! Thanks!!
 

The flow chart is cool...but I have a question on one of the post in that thread.

There is a picture of the carb, and it says to have the LSN flush. Is that correct for my engine as well? That a lot of turns out...
Carb.jpg


Thanks
 
So I tried to tune the engine by making the LSN flush to the ring. All that happens is it spits a lot of fuel from the exhaust, and when you go to give it fuel it just bogs down and dies. (Temp stays down!) So do I need to cut the HSN way back?

Should I just go back to manufacture default and get it back to where I was? (the 2 1/2 on both LSN, and HSN)

So far I have had it set two was....too rich and the temp stays down but no real power, or a bit more lean but within a few moments it over heats.

So even though its an off road truck...should I not run this on grass?

So I have learned these things are a pain to get set....

What would I search for to find a local rc track? Perhaps someone there might be able to give me insight.

Thanks.
 
I would go back to the base setting for the carb and try the HSN at 3 1/2turns out, & leave the LSN at 2 1/2 turns out and see if that controlls the overheating.Two 1/2 turns out on the HSN seems to me to be very lean. You are always best running your engine rich than to lean, If you are only bashing you don't need the engine at the maximum limit. If its still overheating at 3 1/2 turns out rich it up a bit more. If the temps are good you can start to lean out a bit.
 

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