blade cp main motor not working

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sagemajor

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I have a blade cp that I just got used. I flew it for a few minutes and the battery died. I charged it and now the motors will not spin.

The three servos work fine, its just the motor that will not spin. I have a second motor I plugged in and it did not spin either. When I plug in the 4-1 unit a red light comes on, does that mean that the battery did not charge enough?

Sage
 
I'm pretty sure you need to reset the ESC. Unplug the power, turn off the Rx, then follow the sequential instructions in your manual.
 
I'm pretty sure you need to reset the ESC. Unplug the power, turn off the Rx, then follow the sequential instructions in your manual.


First line in bold even under startup is set the throttle trim to 0. That fixed it.

Now that I have it running it is not getting enough power to get off the ground, does that mean it needs a new battery or a motor?

Sage
 
Have you noticed it slowing down lately? Have you noticed anything different while charging? Do you have anything else you can test the battery on?
If the speed controller is programmable, you might have it on the wrong settings.
 
Have you noticed it slowing down lately? Have you noticed anything different while charging? Do you have anything else you can test the battery on?
If the speed controller is programmable, you might have it on the wrong settings.

Its new to me, I removed the training wheels and I was able to get it off the ground at nearly full throttle. From looking at the manual it looks like it should hover at around 50% throttle.

I fully charged the battery using my real charger (Its purple, I think brain 930) The display reads 11.xx when its done charging.

The speed control is a 4-1 mixer, the only options are changing the tail speed to help center it and a gain which seems to be a more serious control of the tail speed.
 
He might have adjusted the blade linkage rods to make is easier to fly. If you shorten the links, you'll get more collective. Make sure they track properly before taking off. Those links will affect how much collective goes to each blade, and they MUST be equal.
 
He might have adjusted the blade linkage rods to make is easier to fly. If you shorten the links, you'll get more collective. Make sure they track properly before taking off. Those links will affect how much collective goes to each blade, and they MUST be equal.

I am going to sound dumb here
Collective means the angle of the blade right? I did see it the manual it talked about moving them but it did not say anything about what they did, or it used words I did not understand.

I will try shortening them today.

Thanks.
 
With the motor disconnected, move the controls and see what the servos do.
First of all, I didn't ask, but do you have a computer radio or is it the stock unit? If you have a comp Tx you can correct it by adjusting the end points of the servos.
If not, you'll need to remove the linkages on the rotor head at the ball joints and adjust them to the length specified in the manual for original factory settings. Only remove one at a time since the pitch linkage is usually longer on must helis. (Not always) You need an accurate measurement, and the same on all 3. The original settings are for overall flight characteristics, and later on you can tweak them for more or less reaction.
 
ok, I looked at it an the links were already as short as they could go, plastic touching plastic. I had another motor and swapped that in, same problem.

The battery seems to die in about 3 minutes, should I have a longer life than that?
 
Bought the lipo battery and lipo charger. When I plug it in both lights flash, which means charger error, any idea what that is?
 
Is there a way to reset the mixer, or make the control give more power?
When I have the throttle at max and I raise the trim to the max it seems to be almost coming up.

The manual does not have any trouble shooting guides.

I also just put new bladed on it to see if that helped and I have the same results.
 
I need to know what radio you're using, and if it has a 'throttle up' or throttle hold switch. It would be on the top left, a 3 position switch. Away from you would be the mildest setting, and center or forward would be for 3-D. Be VERY careful with that since it would now give you NEGATIVE collective below half stick.
You can also try the switch on the front of the radio, also on the left. That would be dual rates. One position is gentle control and the other is maximized. You'll know what position you're in by working the sticks with the motor unplugged.
 
I need to know what radio you're using, and if it has a 'throttle up' or throttle hold switch. It would be on the top left, a 3 position switch. Away from you would be the mildest setting, and center or forward would be for 3-D. Be VERY careful with that since it would now give you NEGATIVE collective below half stick.
You can also try the switch on the front of the radio, also on the left. That would be dual rates. One position is gentle control and the other is maximized. You'll know what position you're in by working the sticks with the motor unplugged.



I am using the control that came with it. It does have a 3-d mode (idle up) switch on the right side , which changes the trhottle from 0-150-00 to 100-50-100 I have it set to default mode, as it will not start with it in 3-d mode
The one on the left side says trainer on it. It is a quick flip, it goes back to the start once you let go.

the control says ccpm 6 channel transmitter on it.

I tried flipping the trainer switch while it was as 0, 50 and 100% throttle and it did nothing.

I also flipped the idle up when at 50% and it did go into negative pitch on the down as expected.

the control looks like this one
http://www.redrockethobbies.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=EFLH1044A
 
I don't know what to tell you, other than there might be a problem with the speed control settings. If the linkages are correct and 3-D and throttle hold does nothing to get it off the ground, there's nothing you can do within that radio that will change it.
You might also check the mesh on the gears to make sure they are not too tight.
You should also back the motor completely away from the main gear and rotate the shaft and check for any bending or bearing drag that would keep the head from getting up to speed.
 
I went to my LHS and bought a new battery. It seems that both the one that came with the heli as well as the new one I bought on Ebay with new blades were bad. The one from the LHS worked fine and it gets off the ground with about 50% power.

Thanks for taking your time with this.

Sage
 
Lipo batteries. Empy it, bin it.

Lots of batteries have been on the shelf too long and lost their storage charge and will never charge properly again. Once the Lithium Polymer loses charge completely it can never be recharged fully :( This is probably what happened to your new one. The old ones had probably been discharged and put away without storage charging them, they then slowly went completely flat and broke them.

I think you are supposed to store them at 50%-70% charge.

Car 12V batteries are sort of the the same but not a bad, if you ever completely flatten a 12V car battery, say turning over a dead car for half an hour until it won't turn no more... be looking for a replacement battery as soon as possible. Don't expect it to last the winter even if it appears to take charge.
 

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