best tmaxx 3.3 break in method

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Ok just for my parent's referance I'm going to explain the break in steps to make sure there is nothing wrong with it...
Step 1: prime engine by blowing through pressure line.
2:wrap cooling head with aluminum foil , and heat engine to 180 degrees.
3: start engine and make sure the engine is running no cooler than 200 degrees before proceding with break in.
4: begin driving in circles at 1/8 throtle giving 1/4 throtle bursts for 5 minute intervals cooling at bdc for 3 tanks.
5: drive in circles giving 1/2 throtle to 3/4 throtle for 5 minute intervals, cooling at bdc.
6: drive in circles for 1 tank giving 3/4 throtle with full throtle bursts, cool at bdc.
7: tune for speed
Notes: make sure piston is at bdc when cooling, heat engine to 180 degreees only 1st start and when it is cold out. DO NOT heat engine to 180 before starting after 1st start.

TIA, lou
 
Number 4 for three tanks.
Number 5 for three-four tanks.
Number 6 for at least one...

Then have fun!

Remember the idea is to heat then cool the engine and rotating assembly. Up to 220-230 degrees (takes about five minutes) then cool down. If you are running too hot and/or not seeing a good stream of blue smoke then you are too lean on the LSN. If you have raw fuel spitting out the pipe and under 200 degrees you are too rich on the LSN. Don't worry about the HSN till you start with 3/4 throttle.

One thing you will notice is that you will burn through that first tank in nothing flat. You might only get the first run out of it. As the engine breaks in you will see an improvement in run times per tank. When you start lo lean it out for power you will see an even bigger improvement.

Good luck!
 
Last edited:
Thanks dude!

And I heard that the anti-foaming agent in the byron fuel causes the bearings to wear out prematurly, is this so? And what do you think is the best fuel out there for a long lasting engine, powerful and easy to tune?
 
Easy to tune: Blue Thunder Sport 20% but ONLY the Sport. A lot of guys (most guys) say all Blue Thunder sucks but the Sport is good for breaking in engines 'cause it has a lot more oil than most. I used it for breaking in my LST because my LHS didn't have Sidewinder 20% with 16% oil.

For bashing: I use Sidewinder 20% with 12% oil now that my mill is broken in and I know more about how it runs. You can go with 16% for break in 'cause the extra oil will help the break in.

As for Bryon's I have never heard anything bad about it.
 
i didnt have a problem with blue thunder in my old mills except the fact it gummed up the carb a couple times but i'll try to get sidewinder 20% wit 16 % oil, if thats what you have. what do you pay for a gallon?
 
Alright, so I finally got to do 3 tanks of break in today, at about 2 and a half tanks, the idol started to hesitated going up and down in the rpms, it was running great before, and it just started to hesitate. I think it could be the glow plug but I'm not sure, any feedback would be great.
 
Back
Top