Best rally shocks?

[Leo.177]

Anyone who could help me with choosing new shocks for my Carten T410 Rally?
Because my shocks have started leaking from the o-ring (only 2 of them) after using it less then a total of 4 hours.
But don't know if should replace them with new original shocks from carten, beacuse 2 of them don't leak. (A set of 2 65mm front or 75mm rear cost 20€) Or if should go with another brand?
Perhaps some yeah racing shock gear 60mm, yeah racing big bore 65mm or tamiya trf shocks (much more money than the carten or yeah racing shocks).
The best option right now for me looks like the Yeah racing shock gear. Because they have the coated shock shaft and are supposedly close in quality to Tamiya TRF shocks.
Also don't know if it is needed to run the original setup with longer 75mm shocks in the rear and 65mm in the front. have not seen any other rally car using such a setup.
What are your opinions?

 

[CertifiedMike]

How much shock do you want? You will need to work out springs still with this option. The stock springs are too much for my 1/10 buggy but..

https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...x-front-rear-shocks-dampers-springs-ara4315v3

Or get crazy and buy the 6s aluminum version. Not sure what springs you can use with them tho.

Double check the eye to eye length with jennys but pretty sure they are 75 or 80mm.

 

[RustyUs]

What is the diameter of the shock shafts?
Bore of the shocks?

 

[CertifiedMike]

The stock units don't look bad.

 

[RustyUs]

I would at least maybe try a softer o-ring before giving up on those shocks of yours. Or possibly add a plastic shim in between the o-rings to induce more squish? I don't know. Can you feel a difference in the resistance of the shaft movement when that bottom shock cap is tightened up?

If the shock shafts are 3mm, I am pretty sure HPI and/or HB Racing has different o-ring hardnesses.

 

[WickedFog]

Remove the leaky shocks and check these o-rings.

If you don't have Green Slime, grab you a tube of it and put some on the o-rings and reinstall the lower cap and try again, after refilling the shock of course. Make sure you don't have any air in them. Fill them up and run the shock shaft up and down very slowly, watching for air bubbles when pulling the shaft back down (rebound). Go slow. When you don't see air bubbles on the rebound stroke, let them sit for a few. Then top them off and put the cap on.

 

[Leo.177]

So after reading all of your suggestions this is the plan:
1. Check if shock movement is more restrictive with the bottom cap tightened.
2. Find o-ring replacements that work better. Any suggestions on specific ones?
(The shock shaft is 3mm)
3. Order o-rings, green slime and 45WT shock oil.
(I only have a tiny amount left from the included bottle from the kit.)

 

[Leo.177]

Update:
I checked if there was more resistance with the bottom cap tightened but I could not notice any difference.

 

[CertifiedMike]

https://www.amainhobbies.com/revolution-design-1-10-3mm-ultra-xring-shock-orings-8-rdrp2003/p1470817
I can't swear these will fit but I would personally give these 'multi brand, fit 3mm' a shot or just a set of silicone without the "x" profile.
Your shocks appear to be good quality. Getting those oring to seal shouldn't be too tough. Adding shims is a common and effective trick.
Just verify there is no damage to your shock shafts.
Little nicks and such will prevent an oring from sealing.

 

[RustyUs]

Update:
I checked if there was more resistance with the bottom cap tightened but I could not notice any difference.

My suggestion of using different/softer/harder o-rings would be the last thing I'd try doing. Maybe it's just my imagination, but any time the bottom shock caps are a couple of turns from being fully tight, the o-rings are just along for the ride... they are not grabbing a hold of the shock shaft. When the bottom shock caps are tight, they should compress/squish the o-rings slightly and you should be able to feel a difference. No amount of secret special shock stiction lube is going to fix bad machining/molding tolerances.

 

[Leo.177]

Any recommendations on new o-rings? Maybe I should try using either thicker ones or 3 instead of 2 o-rings?
Would the Tamiya #50597 work?

 

[RustyUs]

Any recommendations on new o-rings? Maybe I should try using either thicker ones or 3 instead of 2 o-rings?

Real quick... People were complaining about one platform's shocks leaking all the time. They were leaking at the bottom shock cap. A revision/addition was made to what went into bottom shock cap's sealing package.

That little modification/addition (shown with arrows) was enough to make the x-rings grab hold of the shock shaft better... no more leaks. Well, 99% of users had no more leaks, but that's another story. I'm just trying to say, things happen in manufacturing and brainstorming a bit trying to help figure out why your shocks are leaking.

Good luck.

 

[Leo.177]

So could I get the same result with putting 3 instead of 2 o-rings? And in that way squishing them to get a tighter seal?

 

[RustyUs]

So could I get the same result with putting 3 instead of 2 o-rings? And in that way squishing them to get a tighter seal?

I'm sure an additional o-ring would not fit. I'd personally try a thin plastic washer in between the two o-rings and go by feel. Maybe 0.5~1mm is all it would take to get o-rings to seal better. Again, I'm just brainstorming. Maybe it's something else causing your shocks to leak.

 

[Leo.177]

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