Beginner drive line help?

[disturbedwelder]

Sry new here and I apologize in advance for a long post to a simple question i and rebuilding my late brothers old Traxxas Slash 4x4 it has been upgraded to brushless but I have purchased a new 3S battery. and ordering ESC140 amp and 3200kv motor combo
Because it will primarily be bashing in uneven yards and wheeling in steets I ordered rpm a arms and such cuz that brand appears to be the only parts still working on this old truck. But I need to replace entire drive line But the gearing and fluid for front and rear diffs is over my head , Or metal vs plastic axles, or u-joint vs cvd axles, heck what kinda shocks to get have me lost can anyone dumb down these things a bit or point me to a guide that will I appreciate it
Ps bear in mind I will not be buying top shelf parts cuz I will likely break things often till I get more practice

 

[Tunedfrog]

Welcome in @disturbedwelder .

 

[CertifiedMike]

Welcome to RCTALK.COM!!!

I see you are building the truck to be somewhat indestructable. RPM arms are a good choice.
Hopefully jennysrc.com will help you keep some of your costs down!

You should post a build thread about your truck.

You can check out other ppl's builds to get an idea of what they did and why.

Happy building!!!

 

[9x19]

Welcome to RCT

The factory drive line isn't bad, and the latest Extreme Heavy Duty hub/drive shafts are even better.
Keep in mind Traxxas uses the same diffs, A-arms, drive shafts, hubs for a lot of different 4x4 models (ie Rustler, Stampede, Raptor)
Jenny's RC is a great source of new factory take-off parts at good prices.

Jennys RC - Slash 4x4

 

[ahr43]

Welcome to the forum, dw. That's a comprehensive list of repairs and upgrades. Like Mike stated above, maybe start a project thread with a few pictures. That way we can help triage the most serious damage and help guide you through the re-build.

Reguarding fluid and grease. Maybe best to start with standard Traxxas fluids until you get a runner. Then look to specific changes in fluid and grease as you progress with the runner. Good luck. Guys here are a great resource for help. -AC

 

[disturbedwelder]

Sry this is all I have out currently cuz this is where I gotta start rebuild the winter bearings kit I ordered shows up today but I have to get front and rear diff before I go any further cuz they are original and someone packed casings with grease. But trying to pick out diffs from made from different metals and gearing confusing

 

[disturbedwelder]

Um thanks u guys I found a helpful thread. Oh and the Jenny's rc tip managed to clear up my front and rear diff confusion. Different part number in fact same diff

 

[ahr43]

Definitely a fun project ahead. By the time you finish, you'll have your apprentice RC rate on the way to your master's. Good you are remembering your late brother's RC. -AC

 

[WickedFog]

Welcome to RCT @disturbedwelder

That doesn't look too bad at all. One thing going for you is Traxxas parts are cheap, and sold everywhere. The very first thing I would do is get some gallon and quart Ziplock bags and tear the truck down until every part is removed and all screws are out of the truck. The front and rear bulkhead will come off as whole assemblies. Keep those separated into individual bags. Break those down into the smaller bags. Label the bags and keep the screws in bags with the assembly. Then get some simple green and give everything a good scrub with a parts cleaning brush. Once you have clean parts to work with you'll be able to find any trouble areas much easier.

One thing with Traxxas shocks, typically they either have Long shocks, X-Long, XX-Long, etc. Yours looks like it takes Long in the front and XX-Long in the back. You can buy rebuild kits for them, but depending on what you have, you might be better off upgrading. Here's all the stuff you need...

https://traxxas.com/parts-finder/68386-4-slash-4x4-vxl

One thing Traxxas is very good at is their website has exceptional resources on the pages with the vehicles. Manuals, exploded views, parts lists, etc.

It looks like the stock fluid weights in the diffs is 30k rear and 10k front. For the shocks it appears to be 30wt.

 

[disturbedwelder]

Awesome thank you for the info and clear answers on the whole diff fluid the more I research the more my addiction grows i only got to run my 3s battery couple times and now I'm excited I need more even picked up a rustler 2wd chassis I wanna build a 6s

 

[disturbedwelder]

Definitely a fun project ahead. By the time you finish, you'll have your apprentice RC rate on the way to your master's. Good you are remembering your late brother's RC. -AC

I watched my brother jump this off his house, hills and just have a blast for almost 10 years can't believe it's still around

 

[RustyUs]

@WickedFog posted a great plan. Best bet for the that ride is to do a complete tear down/clean/rebuild. Especially, with all the mismatched hardware. I'm not putting anyone down, it's just that every used RC I ever put my hands on... there's no telling what jerryriggin' you'll find. Straightness of pins/shafts would be high on my list of a "must check" during teardown.

 

[disturbedwelder]

@WickedFog posted a great plan. Best bet for the that ride is to do a complete tear down/clean/rebuild. Especially, with all the mismatched hardware. I'm not putting anyone down, it's just that every used RC I ever put my hands on... there's no telling what jerryriggin' you'll find. Straightness of pins/shafts would be high on my list of a "must check" during teardown.

Yup that's what I'm doing I put the rpm arms on but tearing everything back down and starting with complete bearings and works. my late bro bashed this rig for 10 years

 

[disturbedwelder]

Ok I'm back to this point but with fully rebuilt front and rear diffs new slipper and complete winter bearings kit plus all the goodies just arrived just missing shocks