Battery hitting lvsd early

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I'm curious, is that for racing or just in general? My personal bashing guideline (I dont race) has become relegating a pack to light duty use at about 10mOhm and then retiring it completely somewhere around 16-18mOhm.

I do that for performance reasons, the battery tends to fade and loss of capacity begins there plus the pack starts to take longer to charge, my absolute cutoff is 15mΩ:

1672948530956.png
 
Lol i just want to toss batteries in and rip out back
 
Lol i just want to toss batteries in and rip out back
I'm like you, Caleb. Have no idea what the IR of my packs are. I just charge 'em up and run 'em. I know their age. Most ~24-36mo old. Keep a watch on the balance voltage. Not sure that means anything.

Recently migrated the Rusty project to smart technology. The proprietary charger that is part of the package offers an IR number. It'll back charge my 'dumb' batteries so perhaps it will show pack IR? Dunno. Haven't tried one yet. No matter.

At any rate, using the numbers in this thread as a baseline for measuring pack condition is helpful. Bottom line, as a basher, will probably run 'em until they die.

'AC'
 
for stock racing, there is a big difference between a 1mΩ pack and a 4mΩ pack... if I'm going to race a big event in stock, I refuse to race a pack higher than 1mΩ
Is Trinity white carbon really that good, better than anything else on the market?

Do you have any experience with Performa? I have seen couple of people running them at my local track.

I am not sure about new reedy packs, but it seems the older ones use to last really long time if not abused. I have super old, probably 9 years reedy square pack that I was using in sc5m but I had been sitting unused for the last 3 years. I would be surprised if it is still alive.

Orion makes junk. I had one battery that puffed from sitting. Also last race Orion esc that I had started acting up and cogging
 
Is Trinity white carbon really that good, better than anything else on the market?

Do you have any experience with Performa? I have seen couple of people running them at my local track.

I am not sure about new reedy packs, but it seems the older ones use to last really long time if not abused. I have super old, probably 9 years reedy square pack that I was using in sc5m but I had been sitting unused for the last 3 years. I would be surprised if it is still alive.

Orion makes junk. I had one battery that puffed from sitting. Also last race Orion esc that I had started acting up and cogging

There might be a better brand out there, but the quality of the pack assembly process and selection of their cells is consistent enough to where it's extremely rare to hear anyone have issues with the White Carbon's.

I have had good results with various budget brands of batteries but they don't tend to last as long when cycling at 40A and that's where the extra expense of the White Carbons have proven to be more cost effective over time for me where a budget pack might last 3-6 months and a White Carbon will last close to year before IR fades. I'm not going to slam every brand that has had a dud and gave me a bad experience, but I will go down the handful of brands that I trust and will buy from again:

1) Trinity White Carbon - my go to for stock racing
2) Zeeee Premium Series - my go to for mod classes
3) SMC - excellent backup if I can't get a White Carbon in stock in a pinch
4) ProMatch - right there with SMC
5) HobbyStar (RC Juice) - backup if Zeee isn't available

Several other name brands I've tested and won't waste my time bad mouthing them are brands that I would have to be extremely desperate to buy them again
 
So after marking the batteries the last run. They were bass ackwards on shutting down early this time. Meaning there is no patteren with it being the same battery. Both showed 3.6 volt when i plugged em in to storage charge. I coulda swore the bigrock used to run em down to 3.4 volt. I will have to check the setting for the esc low voltage shutdown.... Once again though the big rock broke twice. First pack was a drive shaft, second pack the front diff. I swear every time i run this dang thing it breaks.
 
So after marking the batteries the last run. They were bass ackwards on shutting down early this time. Meaning there is no patteren with it being the same battery. Both showed 3.6 volt when i plugged em in to storage charge. I coulda swore the bigrock used to run em down to 3.4 volt. I will have to check the setting for the esc low voltage shutdown....
You may be experiencing something along the lines of what I've experienced with the Spektrum 160A ESC that comes in the Kraton 8S. Check out THIS thread for more info.

Once again though the big rock broke twice. First pack was a drive shaft, second pack the front diff. I swear every time i run this dang thing it breaks.
Yeah, the smaller 3S & 4S Arrma rigs seem to be really prone to breaking. WickedFog was telling me that he's broken something on his Granite I think like every time hes ever driven it. I own several Arrma rigs but they are all either 6S or 8S rigs with the exception of the Kraton 4S which I do not have a very high opinion of.
 
You may be experiencing something along the lines of what I've experienced with the Spektrum 160A ESC that comes in the Kraton 8S. Check out THIS thread for more info.


Yeah, the smaller 3S & 4S Arrma rigs seem to be really prone to breaking. WickedFog was telling me that he's broken something on his Granite I think like every time hes ever driven it. I own several Arrma rigs but they are all either 6S or 8S rigs with the exception of the Kraton 4S which I do not have a very high opinion of.
I am about ready to sell it. Its fun and durable in many aspects. But the few places they cheaped out ruin it. Slipper clutch, plastic diffs,poopy plastic driveshafts
 

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