Axial - Project 2.0

[Webbage]

Behold! The Great Rebuild begins

With my stuff finally here from East End Machining, I have built up a good pile of work to do on the Axial. Here's what's on my work schedule (some done already).

Axial HD Diff Lockers
STRC Rear Lockout
Upper 4 Link (don't worry Charlie, I am open to better ones!)
STRC Lower Bent Links
East End Machining Skid Plate (WoooHooo!)
Droop Shocks
Venom Prop Sleeves
Slipper Clutch

Here's my chassis set out with the upper and lower links installed:

I wanted to know what you thought of using the cranked link ends on the inboard end of the lowers on the Double Tri plate. I thought it was an interesting idea, I'll see how well it goes mounting them up to the Axles.

Gotta sleep now it's been a long day

 

[Webbage]

Well I got it done this morning. It's pretty bloomin' awesome. The skid plate and double triangulation setup has eliminated almost all the torque and axle twist. The droop suspension means it's so planted it's nearly grown roots on my test course

And who could resist the urge to take pictures!

 

[slowngreen]

looks good man, performin good? i take it you are running full droop?

 

[Webbage]

Yeh it's full droop. TBH the shocks are a little stiff for optimal. I may go semi and get some soft counter-springs to put above the piston that don't make it sit higher but just help the piston move down a bit when it articulates. There were a couple of times, not many, when it could have dropped a wheel further but didn't. It's not so bad it stops it working, it's just something that needs looking at whenever. I've got to find some springs first!

 

[h8z2luze]

Looks good bro! can't wait to get my ARTR!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Webbage]

Last 2 days I've been doing 'Radio Gear 101' on my Axial. Here's what I've done:

1. Bought a Specktrum DX6i radio set. Hurrah no more sticky up aerial!

2. Installed the receiver.

3. Installed a CC-BEC, complete with power isolator switch to cut power to the receiver. I don't like the idea of the battery plug being the only means of powering off the radio gear.

4. Snipped the red wire from my Sidewinder to the ESC and installed a 2mm banana plug and socket half way so I can reconnect it for use with the Castle Link.

5. Re-installed and tied in all the wiring to the chassis.

6. Tested it. It works in my room. Too dark outside to try it on any rocks. Steering servo is already way beefier and isn't causing the odd cut-outs when it's under stress. Like I said I need to get it out on the rocks tomorrow evening before it gets dark here.

7. I worked out what the bind plug on the AR6200 receiver actually does. It hot-wires the 'ground' wire to the 'signal' wire on the power connector on the receiver. I know this how? I plugged the power cable in reversed (don't panic the live pin is in the centre so was on the right pin!) and it went into BIND mode (both receiver unit LEDs flashing rapidly). There ya go. Unravelling the mysteries of R/C technology

If anyone knows how to convert a Mode 2 DX6i to Mode 1 without dismantling the sticks then please hit me up. I'd love to know, I'm a little frustrated at having a non-spring-return throttle

 

[slowngreen]

yeah webbage, wasn't that cutting out stuff annoying lol? mine did it to when i got the sidewinder and thats enuff to piss u off really fast.

 

[CharliesTheMan]

Man I didn't know that you hadn't installed the BEC yet, I forgot about it really, but I'm glad you finally got it installed. I don't run a crawler without one now that I've used one and realized how much they help, how cheap they are, and how easy they are to wire up.

Your rigs coming together really nicely. I haven't been able to read through this build thread to get caught up where I left off, but I'm looking forward to it.

Most people just install a spring on both sticks to run their surface RC's. I haven't had that radio so I haven't done it, but the way that everyone talks about it, it's a really easy mod, you just open up the case and put the spring in.

 

[Webbage]

As you probably gathered from my reluctance to under take it, it's not quite as straightforward as that. There isn't a spare spring bar, mount or pins with the set to put in it, so I can't really convert it easily. My only option is to physically swap the spring setup from right to left, and use the sprung stick on the left, and set the radio to Mode 1. It's doable, but it's a involved process. My main issue with having a non-sprung stick is if you swipe it while driving it doesn't spring back, so the two things I'd use one for (throttle or dig) are both liable to engage accidentally and not back off.

 

[CharliesTheMan]

I have a shift gate that you might want to use for the dig. I'm not familiar with stick radios at all, but a lot of guys are running them. I bought a stick radio and it had one installed, and I didn't know it was aftermarket until I saw them for sale.

It's designed for three speed tamiya transmissions, but I would think it would be used for three position dig as well.

 

[Webbage]

Woah had a major panic moment tonight, I'm 1 day off my first competition run (on Sunday - wish me luck!!), and I am out all day Saturday so I was checking my truck against the UK regulations and found it was 1/8th inch over the legal wheelbase (12 1/2"). It turns out using those cranked link ends is not a good idea if you want a 12.5" wheelbase using the STRC bent links

 

[CharliesTheMan]

I'm running the same skid plate and I'm at 12 1/4, I must be using some shorter rod ends.

 

[Webbage]

I'm using the stock Axial 'straight' rod ends, the stock ones used a t the inner end of the lower links. I have my top links 4-linked out differently to yours though (I'm effectively using front and rear TCS top plates) so I might have my castor angle set tipped further forward, which pushes the wheels out a little too.

 

[Webbage]

More Power, Igor!!!

I got my Holmes Hobbies 7T Puller yesterday, and my Hot Racing Dig on Wednesday. I got them all fitted up and also slung on some Delrin lower links I got from the winner of the last UK comp. It's getting to be pretty unstoppable now

I shot some video, sorry it's not on YouTube, I shot it on an old digital camera and if I post it on YouTube I think it'll pixilate to hell and back. Flickr won't take it because it's too long (silly asses).

http://homepage.mac.com/markbenson/.Movies/Axial Crawler 1.m4v

If I get time tomorrow I'll shoot some still of it on the crawler test course.

 

[slowngreen]

i can't get it to open with anything.

 

[Webbage]

I'm attempting to 'Tube it.

[ame]http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=gx-cUcQoISo[/ame]

EDIT: There ya go. Sorry, the quality sucks, YouTube make a really poor job of upsizing 320x240 video to 640x480

 

[Webbage]

Behold! Another rebuild!

Fitting:

Hot Racing 'XM' TVPs
Hot Racing Alloy Gears
Axial HD Ring + Pinion Gears
Axial Alu knuckles & clockable Cs

*This crawler is bought to you by Hot Racing

 

[slowngreen]

nice mark, this looks like a good build

 

[Webbage]

Here it is. Going to a competition tomorrow to see if I can actually do some good this time:

I had to move the front shocks out a bit to give it a bit more ride height as the stock mounting position at the front was causing bind and, because the skid plate is offset slightly forwards, was screwing up the suspension geometry a bit.

Currently it sits at 2 3/4" ride height and is pretty unstoppable on my test course. It's sat on my toolbox ready for tomorrow.

Oh, yeah, I do intend to tie the electrics down before I run in the comp BTW. I just haven't gotten around to it. I figure I can do it while I'm waiting for my run tomorrow.

 

[slowngreen]

looks good man, 2 3/4 seems like a perfect spot, not to much, not too little.