Associated Pro SC10 Upgrades

[tn27]

Hey Guys,

Posted a few weeks ago about advice on which vehicle to buy and I bought a RTR Associated Pro Sc10. Came with a 3300mAh Reedy wolfpack battery and charger. I bought a Dynamite charger and a 5000 mAh 50C 2s battery at the hobby shop. Took it to the track last night and what a blast. Met a few cool guys. I was afraid of the serious guys who were going to be d***s about me not being able to drive and being in the way but the nice guys far outweighed the bad. Only got yelled at a few times haha. Like I said, I'm new to the racing thing and I'm looking for some help on some easy upgrades. I've been looking for aluminum shock caps that are bleed able, and last night I tried to mess with the camber but I decided to stop and wait till I could get more advice.

Few questions;

1.) Do you let the motor cool down between runs? I got maybe 25 minutes out of my 3300 and maybe 35 out of my 5000 but I doubt the 5000 was charged all the way. I put them in back to back and after the 5000 started to run low I realized I hadn't checked to see if the motor was too hot. It doesn't matter I guess because I wouldn't have known if it was too hot or not. Should I invest in one of those thermometer guns, and what do you guys look for in motor temps?

2.) I had to hit the jumps straight on. If I hit them coming out of a corner, the truck would kick the back end the opposite way and a few times I landed completely sideways. The rebound is obviously too quick, but does this mean I need softer springs or stiffer springs, and how do you guys set up the oil level on your shocks? More oil is stiffer? or less oil is stiffer?

3.) One of the buggy guys told me that mostly everyone runs positrons on clay. I looked up some tires and found several different compounds. Super softs? Softs? There is also a carpet track here in southeast Michigan so what do you guys run on carpet?

4.) I see the tie rods (whats the RC name?) going into the control arm. One goes into the top and one goes into the rear part of the control arm behind the wheel. This must be the toe adjustment? I understand set ups are to each their own but what is the general rule for toe and camber?

Any other advice or help you can give the new guy would be much appreciated.

 

[D3MON]

Congrats on the truck!
As far as your questions, typically it Is best to let the car cool between packs, if the temps are not high it won't really matter too much.
Shocks, it isn't the oil level that changes the rebound but the shock oil weight. I'd get a few ranging from 30wt- 50wt and see what works best for you.
Rear toe, typically set between 1-3 from factory camber right around the same depending on aggrrsiveness needed.
Tires no clue on that sorry.

 

[Zap]

Any other advice or help you can give the new guy would be much appreciated.

You may want to be kind to that truck for the tine being, I have one too and the
front arms have been out of stock for some time now. I gave my buddy my
last spare. On the up side, it's a great truck.

 

[RustyUs]

Yeah, a lot of parts are outta stock. I got kinda worried I wouldn't be able to find some spare axles for my SC10s. After scrounging the interwebs for my parts, I emailed Associated and they told me 700 pieces were in route to them. I was thinking a person could use arms from the SC5M on the ProSC10, but the SC5M arms are discontinued .... I couldn't locate any. The ProSC10 arm set are just outta stock, but should be on the same boat as the SC10 axles.

 

[Zap]

The ProSC10 arm set are just outta stock, but should be on the same boat as the SC10 axles.

Yeah, a slow boat from China.

 

[RustyUs]

Hey Guys,

Posted a few weeks ago about advice on which vehicle to buy and I bought a RTR Associated Pro Sc10. Came with a 3300mAh Reedy wolfpack battery and charger. I bought a Dynamite charger and a 5000 mAh 50C 2s battery at the hobby shop. Took it to the track last night and what a blast. Met a few cool guys. I was afraid of the serious guys who were going to be d***s about me not being able to drive and being in the way but the nice guys far outweighed the bad. Only got yelled at a few times haha. Like I said, I'm new to the racing thing and I'm looking for some help on some easy upgrades. I've been looking for aluminum shock caps that are bleed able, and last night I tried to mess with the camber but I decided to stop and wait till I could get more advice.

Few questions;

1.) Do you let the motor cool down between runs? I got maybe 25 minutes out of my 3300 and maybe 35 out of my 5000 but I doubt the 5000 was charged all the way. I put them in back to back and after the 5000 started to run low I realized I hadn't checked to see if the motor was too hot. It doesn't matter I guess because I wouldn't have known if it was too hot or not. Should I invest in one of those thermometer guns, and what do you guys look for in motor temps?

2.) I had to hit the jumps straight on. If I hit them coming out of a corner, the truck would kick the back end the opposite way and a few times I landed completely sideways. The rebound is obviously too quick, but does this mean I need softer springs or stiffer springs, and how do you guys set up the oil level on your shocks? More oil is stiffer? or less oil is stiffer?

3.) One of the buggy guys told me that mostly everyone runs positrons on clay. I looked up some tires and found several different compounds. Super softs? Softs? There is also a carpet track here in southeast Michigan so what do you guys run on carpet?

4.) I see the tie rods (whats the RC name?) going into the control arm. One goes into the top and one goes into the rear part of the control arm behind the wheel. This must be the toe adjustment? I understand set ups are to each their own but what is the general rule for toe and camber?

Any other advice or help you can give the new guy would be much appreciated.

I would consider tires to be 90% of a good setup. Having the right tires is everything. Just pick up some of the "hot ticket" tires that are used for the track that you are at, and start practicing with stock setup.

Check and make sure that ProSC10 servo saver is up to the task. A lot of times, stock RTR servo savers are too weak in hopes of keeping the stock servo gears lasting longer, and make steering response...lacking. Having a good strong metal gear servo; with a solid servo arm might be the second thing I'd suggest to do for controlling the truck better.

The ProSC10's front toe is adjustable via the steering turnbuckle. I'd start with 0°, or -1° for the front. The ProSC10's rear toe-in is built into the rear arm mounts, and does not have (that I'm aware of) optional arm mounts/toe adjustment for the rear.

If using the ProSC10's gear diff, I'd recommend starting with something like 5k diff fluid for a medium bite track. I have always used ball diffs on all but the ultra high grip tracks. I have a T4 with a gear diff in it, and have tried a few different thicknesses of diff fluid. 5k fluid is my happy place. YMMV.

 

[tn27]

I would consider tires to be 90% of a good setup. Having the right tires is everything. Just pick up some of the "hot ticket" tires that are used for the track that you are at, and start practicing with stock setup.

Check and make sure that ProSC10 servo saver is up to the task. A lot of times, stock RTR servo savers are too weak in hopes of keeping the stock servo gears lasting longer, and make steering response...lacking. Having a good strong metal gear servo; with a solid servo arm might be the second thing I'd suggest to do for controlling the truck better.

The ProSC10's front toe is adjustable via the steering turnbuckle. I'd start with 0°, or -1° for the front. The ProSC10's rear toe-in is built into the rear arm mounts, and does not have (that I'm aware of) optional arm mounts/toe adjustment for the rear.

If using the ProSC10's gear diff, I'd recommend starting with something like 5k diff fluid for a medium bite track. I have always used ball diffs on all but the ultra high grip tracks. I have a T4 with a gear diff in it, and have tried a few different thicknesses of diff fluid. 5k fluid is my happy place. YMMV.

I asked about the servo saver and someone told me that they would rather have the servo arm break than have the servo gear strip in a crash. Thats why he recommended stay with plastic. ( I'd rather have aluminum components but I don't know anything) I have noticed that it doesn't turn as sharp as i need to to so I've been steering with the brake a little bit. I'm having a blast with the 2wd though. I have fully intended the whole time to race in the 4wd class. I guess I enjoy being the underdog.

I got a set of positrons, (kind of, i got 3 right sides and one left. Waiting on a response from pro line as I already glued them before I noticed.) I also stood the front shocks up one notch and laid the rears down one notch. Watching the real deal on TV I see the trophy trucks sit lower in the back end, I guess I'm hoping to figure something out and see if the physics work in RC as the SC guys weren't very talkative in the pits. I got bleed able shock caps, plastic because aluminum is hard to find I guess, and once I figure out the shock position I will mess with the oil viscosity. I don't want to make too many changes at once so I can learn what it does to the truck.

 

[RustyUs]

I never had an issue with the SC10/T4/B4 plastic bleeder caps leaking as long as the o-rings were good. I would assume the ProSC10/SC5M caps would be of similar quality.

Switching over my 10mm shocks to bleeder caps...Associated does not use/provide o-rings for the bleeder screws. I always used o-rings on the bleeder screws cause the "4" series big boar Factory Team shocks came with them. It took me three different orders to find the right size o-ring for the 2x4mm bleeder screws. I finally these to work/fit the best...https://www.ebay.com/itm/Metric-Bun...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 .

Almost every single off-road setup, that I have seen, has the front end sitting higher than the rear...better weight transfer to the rear tires. A lot of the Associated manuals tell you to start with the front arms being level, and the rear to have the bones level. This usually ends up leaving your rear ride height being 2mm lower than the front. Unfortunately, no setup sheets were ever made for the ProSC10. If I had to guess as to what platform has similar weight bias characteristics as the ProSC10, I'd guess the SC10 setups may provide some usefulness. I'd stick with stock ProSC10 settings from the manual for awhile until I got good at not wrecking on the track. Increase speed little, by little. Possibly making small adjustments along the way.

HERE is a good read.
Setup Guide...http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggySetupGuide.pdf
R/C Car Handling website...http://users.telenet.be/elvo/