Arrma fury motor load problem

[CertifiedMike]

When you do find you need to buy parts, jennysrc.com sells new take-off parts at great prices.

 

[Sjenk6350]

When you do find you need to buy parts, jennysrc.com sells new take-off parts at great prices.

Cool thank you I appreciate it i was probably going to upgrade the motor and battery and add a fan in a few months

 

[CertifiedMike]

Cool thank you I appreciate it i was probably going to upgrade the motor and battery and add a fan in a few months

No prob! Def hang on to jenny's info!

They are really great with customer service, they know their stock! I have dealt with them a bunch.
I bought all the parts to upgrade my Granite BLX to the 223 suspension parts recently. I saved a TON of money going thru Jennys!

Truck is better than new too!

 

[RustyUs]

i was thinking along the same lines as @Lukedavis and @Ritz413 and didnt chime in i almost think brushes are shot/hung upworn down after reading both threads on your issue probably your only rc right no other motor or esc to swap in how fond are you with the brushed setup maybe time to think about replacing components the motor is probably cheapest way to go so you know you have good brushes how long were your runtimes with stock battery temps got super hot at all cause i don't know some cheap ten dollar 12t 550 motor worth start testing to narrow down the problem maybe skip the whole brushed motor idea if you liked the way the fury drove just invest in a seperate esc reciever motor combo brushed motors have their place for hard runnin offroad general fun adventures ill never go back unless it was for five minute timed events entry level rc ready to run packages are put togher wih bottom tier very basic no frills electronics most of the time in order to making pricepoints attracktive to new comers i think is pryority to them theyll hold up to alot of what companies think the general user will do with their product banking on most users having a good experience a gateway rc 'drug' leads to bigger n better things as they say tinkering maintenace tearin things down is all apart of hobbygrade rc fun hopefully you had some good time with your fury

Edit: Sorry, I used at least one apostrophe above.

 

[Ritz413]

i was thinking along the same lines as @Lukedavis and @Ritz413 and didnt chime in i almost think brushes are shot/hung upworn down after reading both threads on your issue probably your only rc right no other motor or esc to swap in how fond are you with the brushed setup maybe time to think about replacing components the motor is probably cheapest way to go so you know you have good brushes how long were your runtimes with stock battery temps got super hot at all cause i don't know some cheap ten dollar 12t 550 motor worth start testing to narrow down the problem maybe skip the whole brushed motor idea if you liked the way the fury drove just invest in a seperate esc reciever motor combo brushed motors have their place for hard runnin offroad general fun adventures ill never go back unless it was for five minute timed events entry level rc ready to run packages are put togher wih bottom tier very basic no frills electronics most of the time in order to making pricepoints attracktive to new comers i think is pryority to them theyll hold up to alot of what companies think the general user will do with their product banking on most users having a good experience a gateway rc 'drug' leads to bigger n better things as they say tinkering maintenace tearin things down is all apart of hobbygrade rc fun hopefully you had some good time with your fury

Edit: Sorry, I used at least one apostrophe above.

I'm assuming if it's a brush problem they are dirty. Something is preventing good contact. It didn't sound like he had nearly enough run time to wear them out. Cheap motors usually have hard brushes for long service life while sacrificing conductivity. High performance brushes for racing are softer, slotted and increase conductivity while reducing friction in exchange for better performance. I got a good amount of run time on mine and it's still using the factory motor/esc combo.

It's sounding more like a rx/tx issue atm from what I have been reading. @Sjenk6350 any luck narrowing down the problem?

 

[CertifiedMike]

The brushed motor in my Gorgon has seen a fair amount of use and abuse thru ice and snow and still runs strong.
I had a failure similar to this with mine. I got the esc wet.
I let it dry, I might have had to recal. too. It runs fine.

I recommend rebind and recal mostly because its a free 1st step towards diagnosing the issue... Usually.

Upgrading the electronics right now may be a good solution to this issue.

I think learning how to diagnose RC is important too tho. Learning how to check things on a reasonably inexpensive brushed system seems a perfect place to start.

Repairing this truck will be a good learning experience no matter how deep the diagnotic work goes.

Buying a spare esc and motor to test with is prob not that expensive.

I was unable to find a brushed 550 motor on jennyrc.com. I though that was odd.

@Sjenk6350 If you need parts that are sold out at Jennys, email them to ask if there is a waiting list avail for those parts.

 

[RustyUs]

I'm assuming if it's a brush problem they are dirty. Something is preventing good contact. It didn't sound like he had nearly enough run time to wear them out. Cheap motors usually have hard brushes for long service life while sacrificing conductivity. High performance brushes for racing are softer, slotted and increase conductivity while reducing friction in exchange for better performance. I got a good amount of run time on mine and it's still using the factory motor/esc combo.

It's sounding more like a rx/tx issue atm from what I have been reading. @Sjenk6350 any luck narrowing down the problem?

Yeah, you're probably right about the hardness of the brushes, but if something is geared wrong, and ran long enough... I've destroyed brushes in a very short amount of time doing things like "dash for cash" no holds barred oval racing.

To put a heavier load on the motor and rule out it being the problem, I'd just hook up the motor straight to a 6.5-ish volt battery and do whatever I thought I needed to do to put a load on the thing. I'm not going into what method I'd do or use.

 

[CertifiedMike]

I'm not going into what method I'd do or use.

Direct power to the motor would answer some questions for sure.

 

[RustyUs]

Direct power to the motor would answer some questions for sure.

I don't want to be responsible for suggesting my redneck motor testing ideas... I fear someone would have a runaway RC on their hands before thinking things through. That's all.

And, by the way, my daughter would suggest wearing a helmet while operating for a 6 volt Barbie ATV Power Wheels... while on 12 volts

 

[CertifiedMike]

I don't want to be responsible for suggesting my redneck motor testing ideas... I fear someone would have a runaway RC on their hands before thinking things through. That's all.

And, by the way, my daughter would suggest wearing a helmet while operating for a 6 volt Barbie ATV Power Wheels... while on 12 volts

Prob goggles too for 24v?

 

[Sjenk6350]

Prob goggles too for 24v?

Basically at this point the motor runs perfect the binding thing worked the problem is now it wont turn after I did the binding

 

[CertifiedMike]

Adjust the dual rate on the radio. Also, check to be 100% sure you haven't got the servo wire plugged into the wrong place or rotated backwards.

 

[Ritz413]

Basically at this point the motor runs perfect the binding thing worked the problem is now it wont turn after I did the binding

If you grab the front wheel with your hand can you turn it manually, or does it seem locked in place?

 

[Sjenk6350]

If you grab the front wheel with your hand can you turn it manually, or does it seem locked in place?

I can turn it manually

 

[Sjenk6350]

Adjust the dual rate on the radio. Also, check to be 100% sure you haven't got the servo wire plugged into the wrong place or rotated backwards.

I got a multimeter and I tested the terminals on the esc its getting power but the motor that actually turns the wheels isnt getting any volts

 

[CertifiedMike]

Have you tested the motor for resistance?

As others have suggested, its also possible to test the motor with direct power but don't attemp that unless the rc is very well secured!

Testing the motor could further verify that the issue is somewhere in the esc.

When you bind and calibrate, lights flash, things work as expected. Is that correct?

If so, that would mean to me that the radio is also working correctly.

 

[Sjenk6350]

There's a red flashing light until the controller binds then once it is connected it is a solid red color and give me one moment to test resistance

 

[Sjenk6350]

Have you tested the motor for resistance?

As others have suggested, its also possible to test the motor with direct power but don't attemp that unless the rc is very well secured!

Testing the motor could further verify that the issue is somewhere in the esc.

When you bind and calibrate, lights flash, things work as expected. Is that correct?

If so, that would mean to me that the radio is also working correctly.

I got 17 ohms of resistance but no volts at the motor to turn

 

[CertifiedMike]

While I am not there to test everything myself, my best guess is the esc is fried.

Have you contacted Arrma about warranty at all or just thinking to upgrade?

 

[Sjenk6350]

While I am not there to test everything myself, my best guess is the esc is fried.

Have you contacted Arrma about warranty at all or just thinking to upgrade?

I'm not sure yet cause I'm getting 7 volts from the plug to the steering motor and the main motor driving the back wheels works just fine now