Argh!! Flywheel keeps falling of the collet

[Sasquatch]

*SIGH*

Hi again..

I have now encountered a new problem with my Inferno 7.5.

My flywheel keeps sliding of the collet on the shaft.

I have tryied to locktite (red) it on there.

I'm actually quite amazed to see that when the shaft turns it turns the same way as "unscrewing". How can anyone possible design things that way ?

I let the locktite set overnight even, but after just one tank it's fallen off again. Engine stops instantly because the clutchassembly even comes apart and shoots forwards and hits the spur gear.

I have tryied with a new flywheel and a new collet because I thought it had worn or something, but I have the same problem.

Does anyone in here have some advice? I'm quite desperate and hope I don't have to buy a new engine or shaft (if possible). Btw. I still use the stock Kyosho GX-21 Only have about 1 gallon through it.

Kind Regards

 

[vbgagnon]

Do you have a nut holding the flywheel and collet on? That might help if you don't. and if you do....well.....I have no earthly idea.

VB

 

[lykan]

the flywheel has topbe tightened on the collet.

It goes collet, flywheel, nut.

If the nut on the end you tighten hits the collet before hitting the flywheel, it won't get that "lock"

The nut needs to push the flywheel onto the collectand wedge it in there for that fit. So if the collet is sticking out of the flywheel on the nut side, you may need washers.

Also if the collect goes to far in the flywheel and there is none left sticking out the back side of the flywheel, you will be tightening the flywheel against the engine block, not onto the collet.

 

[Sasquatch]

Yes I have. The clutch assembly is based on a nut that is screwed on the shaft itself. But that nut is being loosened as the engine runs and shaft spins.
If I was to design something that spins with 35000+ rpm I would make that nut turn against the direction of the shaft to keep it tight. Much like the wheels on most of my rides.

Regards.

Hmm.... Now I tore it apart and it seems like my threadlocking (the red) the flywheel on the collet actually works, but the nut holding the clutch seen in this picture

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXENJ6&P=7

This nut it loosening itself. The shaft turns counter clockwise when viewed from this angle and this is the same way as loosening it yourself.

Why is it made this way ? Is this "normal" in nitro engines ?

I could offcause threadlock this aswell (yes I like this red and blue substance), but will it be advisable ?

 

[bill61]

You are supposed to put lock-tite on the nut, not the collet. Every flywheel system that I have seen is this way,(having standard threads instead of reverse threads). Yes they sometimes come loose, but if done properly they won't loosen on their own.
Clean the collet, flywheel, nut, and the crank. Then install the collet and flywheel on the crank. Apply some lock-tite to the crank threads and thread the nut on and torque it down tight. Let it set overnight and you should have no more problems.

 

[Sasquatch]

Thank you for the reply.

I will do that.

I have never before seen the remains of locktite on the nut on cars I have done engine work on. That is why I could not understand this standard thread thing.

Guess I'm learning something new today then :yes:

 

[raven7]

One more thing to check. Your flywheel nut may be running out threads on the crankshaft. The nut will feel tight, but it won't be tight enough against the flywheel. Look at how many threads are showing with the flywheel installed. Maybe a thin flat washer shim between the flywheel and clutch nut will be enough to keep the flywheel tight on the collet. Let us know what you find.

 

[Sasquatch]

I ran the buggy today after I threadlocked it to the shaft, and now it seems to stay there. I only got through 2 tanks, but before the problem occured 2/3 (by pure luck I think) into tank 1 of the day.

Thank you all for the helpfull replys.

Raven7: It seems that the ammount of thread is not the problem.

 

[cbreaker]

I recently replaced the flywheel/clutch on my GS B01 engine with the Fioroni sliding clutch. All I used was blue loctite on the nut and I ran 5 tanks through the thing no problem.

It's the same design as your engine. Perhaps when you were putting loctite on the actuall flange it was producing the opposite of a locking effect. It should be a smooth as possible metal to metal contact there.

About loctite; red is stronger then blue, yes? I haven't found an application on my buggy that seems to warrant red loctite, blue seems to hold everything without a problem. Any place I should consider red?

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

NO RED ON THE CLUTCH NUT! That would be BAD when you have to take it off. BAD BAD BAD! lol

Ok, I feel better now.

As for the loose one, are you using a flywheel wrench and a piston locking tool or something along those lines?

If not, you probably just arent getting it tight enough. That is the first thing Id suggest.

Its all about the right tools for the job :thumbup:

 

[dgrobe2112]

dont use a piston locking tool.. you will put a dent in the top of the piston.. if anything.. just hydrolock the motor..

Another thing.. that hasnt been said.. make sure that the clutch nut is on the right way.. there is a certain way that nut goes on.. if you look at the clutch nut, one side of the threads will be in a little further than the other side.. that should go on first..

i dont use any locktight.. and i have never had a problem wiht my flywheel coming off..

I put on the collet.. then the flywheel.. hand tight the clutchnut.. then with some channellocks.. i hold the flywheel.. and tighten the nut.. as tight as i can.. without messing up the threads..

here is a example..

/////---- ]=] should go on like that.. not like this [=[

 

[Sasquatch]

Don't worry.

I used the blue locktite on the nut, and it seems to work perfectly.
I know the red locktire is wery strong and unfortunately I used it (by mistake) on the collar/flywheel. Guess they will now never come apart again... :-(

I have no special locking tools, but used a pair of pliars with soft grip so I did not scratch the nut or anything else.

I appreciate all your answers and once again Your input has helped me out.

Thank you all.

Regards.

 

[dgrobe2112]

what a minute.. you used a pair of pliers on the nut to tighten it?? you should use a socket.. i think its 10mm socket for that nut.. and that will tighten it..

 

[lykan]

He most likely used the pliers on the flywheel to hold it still? that's what I do.

 

[dgrobe2112]

hope thats what he did.. but use channel locks.. so you can get a good grip and hold it tight..

but he also said that it hasnt come off since.. so..

 

[Sasquatch]

Sorry. My mistake.

I used the pliers to hold the flywheel and a socket on the nut. Just like lykan describes.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

If you use a toothbrush and go through the exhaust port, you wont leave a 'dent' in the head.

I use a piston locking tool on all of my mills and have NEVER had a problem as a result of it.

I guess this would be a matter of preference.

 

[dgrobe2112]

just make sure you got the clutchnut on there correctly..

 

[Sasquatch]

Any link to a piston locking tool. I might as well get one of there for future use.

I searched Tower, buy no luck. (I have no idea what I'm looking for)

 

[dgrobe2112]

i wouldnt use one.. you can hydrolock the motor rather than the piston lock tool..